tweedydon
Distinguished Member
- Joined
- May 18, 2009
- Messages
- 4,590
- Reaction score
- 107
EASTMAN LEATHER COMPANY 1942 PATTERN IRVIN JACKET!
Eastman are widely regarded as making THE best Irvin reproductions available today.
Eastman are widely regarded as making THE best Irvin reproductions available today.
There are few pieces of clothing that can claim to be true icons--but the Irvin jacket is unquestionably one of them.
Designed by the American aviator Leslie Irvin to protect pilots against the sub-zero temperatures that they were starting to encounter in their unheated cockpits as aircraft technology advanced and allowed them to fly higher, the Irvin Jacket earned its iconic status during the Second World War. The status of this jacket was cemented during the Battle of Britain, when "the Few" of the RAF (including volunteer pilots from the United States, Canada, Poland, and other countries) defended Britain against the might of the Lufwaffe from July 1940 until October of that year.
Indeed, so linked is the Irvin to this period that in the British imagination the Irvin jacket immediately conjures up images of the long hot summer of 1940, with the clear blue skies of summer alive with violent conflict, downed Messerschmitts, and weary British pilots already dressed in their Irvins in deckchairs on their airfields waiting for the klaxon to blare the signal to scramble.
The Irvin, however, predates the Second War--if barely, being approved by Britain's Air Ministry in 1932. It was the perfect garment for its purpose. Made from heavyweight sheepskin, its thick, natural wool fleece provides incredible insulation. The sheepskin shell of the jacket was tough, yet lightweight and flexible--Irvin knew that in a cramped cockpit of a fighter plane space was restricted, and a jacket just could not provide any additional limits on the pilot's movements. These jackets might look bulky and constricting, but they're designed to provide maximum movement for the wearer--and this they achieve perfectly. And they are TOUGH--these are, after all, jackets that were designed to be worn through a war, in combat. Ircins are not for babying, but for wearing.
This attention to detail is evident throughout the jacket. The classic oversized collar was designed to provide maximum warmth and protection while allowing for the maximum freedom of movement of the pilot's head and neck to scan for incoming enemy, the long zips on the sleeves were to allow for the wearing of gauntlets, again, without restricting movement, the grommets under the arms allowed for ventilation, and the elastic strap at the back was invaluable in securing the collar in the upright position--as were the collar latch straps, if so desired. Naturally, the jacket lacked all pockets--you had no need to your wallet if you trying to avoid the return fire of a Heinkel or pulling at your canopy to bale out.
As the war continued, sheepskin, like everything, became harder to secure in England, and the full-panel construction of the pre-war and early war jackets gave way to a more patchwork jacket with more seams, that consumed less material--this jacket is the 1942 model, with large panel construction.
Eastman Leather Company are widely regarded as making THE best Irvin reproductions available today--and with good reason. The attention to detail is astounding, as is the quality.
This jacket is the 1942 model. It is made from premium quality 3/4" sheepskin; the leather trim is vegetable tanned aniline dyed top grain hide. The fleeces is incredible thick and luxurious, and is absolutely period correct. The label is printed linen, and the elastic trim strap has been manufactured to RAF specifications. The zippers are all beautifully fluid, and is made by RiRi--THE Rolls Royce of zippers, ensuring that the moving parts of this jacket will be as sturdy and long-lasting as the rest of it. The buckle has been custom made for Eastman to conform to war time RAF specifications. This is an absolutely superb reproduction, that serves its original purpose--keeping its wearer warm--perfectly. That it looks wonderful while doing so is simply a perk!
This jacket is in overall excellent condition. It does have two issues that must be noted, though. First, it has undergone a minor professional repair on the shoulder at some point, with a patch being added over a small nick. Second, when I received the jacket the zipper was becoming detached at the bottom. I took the jacket to Rago's Leather Repair in Morristown, NJ, as they are used to working on original World War Two jackets for museums. They repaired the zipper perfectly, and also overdyed the patch so that it matched the color of the rest of the jacket's hide. (They were also extremely impressed with the quality and authenticity of the jacket; the use of RiRi zippers was especially exciting!) Because of the zipper repair one of the studs is slightly larger than the other, as shown. And, of course, this jacket does have all of the minor surface creasing and suppleness that you'd expect--this, plus the patch, gives it a wonderful patina, and means that you won't be afraid to wear it--not that you should be, since this was designed to be worn through a war.
This jacket, then, is in almost Excellent condition. Given the cost of Eastman jackets and the robust health of the second-hand market in them, this is a bargain at just $495, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA.
Tagged size 40; runs true to size (and so could work for a 38 or 40):
Chest: 23 (remember, this is a thick fleece jacket)
Sleeve: 25
Shoulder: 19
Length (from the collar seam, NOT the bottom of the turned down oversize collar): 24 1/4
