Spier & Mackay Contemporary 40R Fit Check

[sgof]

Hi everyone,

I'm currently looking to buy a summer weight suit from Spier & Mackay. I already own a suit from them, but I don't work out as much as I did back then and so my body shape has changed. I think that I need to size down to a 38R and maybe go for the slim fit instead of the contemporary, but I was hoping that I could get a 2nd opinion based on how my other S&M suit currently fits.

I bought this suit in late 2019. I had the sleeves taken up and I felt that the jacket fit well at the time, although my shoulders are uneven, so I'm not sure whether it's possible for an OTR jacket to fit perfectly. In hindsight I think the trousers would look better with a shorter inseam.

Thank you for reading

 

[circumspice]

You need a long, but I am not entirely sure this coat is hugging your neck that well. The very, very low camera angle makes things a bit tough.

Can you put on a proper collared shirt, collar buttoned with the coat?

I don't want to go on record simply with "get a 40L" because I am not sold on the collar fit

 

[sgof]

You need a long, but I am not entirely sure this coat is hugging your neck that well. The very, very low camera angle makes things a bit tough.

Can you put on a proper collared shirt, collar buttoned with the coat?

I don't want to go on record simply with "get a 40L" because I am not sold on the collar fit

Hi, thanks for the reply.

Yes, that was a good catch that I hadn't noticed until I put on the shirt.

I don't know that it shows that well in the full body picture because it's not that obvious when my arms are at my sides (to my untrained eyes at least). I think the close up shows it a bit better, but there is definitely a noticable collar gap if I even slightly raise my arms.

 

[circumspice]

So, this is one of those awkward things that can happen in these discussions - I think your right shoulder is... somewhat interesting. I am an idiot consumer, not a tailor. But it doesn't look purely "dropped", but almost set back a CM or two - as if I had offered you $500 cash to roll your right shoulder back - it looks like because it is set back, it throws open the coat on that side. This seems t pull the right side of the coat more open and off the collar.


As as self confessed idiot, I don't know if this is merely a posture thing, or some thing that any MTM program could improve on.

But I basically think for this particular cut, a 40L would drop the buttoning point and increase the length of the coat, and both of those are things I think would be improvements in the abstract, but neither will impact what is going on with your right side.

 

[sgof]

So, this is one of those awkward things that can happen in these discussions - I think your right shoulder is... somewhat interesting. I am an idiot consumer, not a tailor. But it doesn't look purely "dropped", but almost set back a CM or two - as if I had offered you $500 cash to roll your right shoulder back - it looks like because it is set back, it throws open the coat on that side. This seems t pull the right side of the coat more open and off the collar.


As as self confessed idiot, I don't know if this is merely a posture thing, or some thing that any MTM program could improve on.

But I basically think for this particular cut, a 40L would drop the buttoning point and increase the length of the coat, and both of those are things I think would be improvements in the abstract, but neither will impact what is going on with your right side.

Yesmy right shoulder is lower and set slightly forwards and always has been. Poor posture is definitely exarcerbating it and that would help to explain why the jacket fits so much worse than it used to, but it's not something that standing up straighter would completely fix.

Thanks a lot for taking the time to help, getting a 40L definitely isn't the direction that I would have gone in if I hadn't asked for advice, so I'm glad that I did.