Skoaktiebolaget – Enzo Bonafé, Saint Crispin’s, John Lobb, Löf & Tung

[H. E. Pennypacker]

Just got my Löf & Tung Rivera Choco Suede and this is phenomenal shoes. Choco suede color is astonishing, closed channel leather sole is perfect, welt joining is just invisible!! I was so happy when I took shoes from bags, I don't have words to describe how those loafers good
I have ordered my Carmina Rain last size - 6 UK and with thick socks when fit is snug I have heel slippage. Should I go half size down?
@Leaves, is it anything I could do with heel slippage?

Perhaps a tongue pad will help. I always add tongue pads to loafers.

 

[Leaves]

Hello Leaves, can you comment about the Danny trainers comparing their sole shape with Magorm's? The ganite colour is great.

The natural sole will look great with navy suede, off white suede, snuff suede, english racing green suede o black nubuk or suede.

The sole shape or the composition of the sole material?

 

[Leaves]

Just got my Löf & Tung Rivera Choco Suede and this is phenomenal shoes. Choco suede color is astonishing, closed channel leather sole is perfect, welt joining is just invisible!! I was so happy when I took shoes from bags, I don't have words to describe how those loafers good
I have ordered my Carmina Rain last size - 6 UK and with thick socks when fit is snug I have heel slippage. Should I go half size down?
@Leaves, is it anything I could do with heel slippage?

Thanks for the feedback, glad you like the shoes! As for the fit, heel slippage is common for loafers as the shoe is not as well fastened as in a lace up. The way forward could indeed be a tongue pad, as mentioned below. Can be found at any decent cobbler.

Perhaps a tongue pad will help. I always add tongue pads to loafers.

 

[JUAN MANUEL]

The sole shape or the composition of the sole material?

Hello, I was wondering about the shape of the sole. Regards

 

[Leaves]

Hello, I was wondering about the shape of the sole. Regards

Sorry but how is that relevant? I would say the most important thing is the shape of the last, no?

 

[JUAN MANUEL]

Sorry but how is that relevant? I would say the most important thing is the shape of the last, no?

Hello.

Since in this kind of trainers the sole contains the feet like in the Chuck Taylor; the shape and height of the sole (or more specifically of the plimsoll) becomes "part" of the last.

 

[Leaves]

Today we are having a look at some Horween Cordovan colors. There are a few makers of Shell Cordovan but none are as famous as Horween (Chicago). At Skoaktiebolaget we have always exclusively used Horween Cordovan.

I've had the pleasure to meet both Skip Horween and Nick Horween at different leather fairs and they are both very pleasant people to deal with. Cordovan is notoriously difficult to color and thus you will see tons of variations of the different color options. Don't be surprised of there are some variations even on the same pair of shoes. Clients need to understand that this is a very natural type of leather that has both some natural occurring scuffs and differences in hues.

Nick Horween:
"Since the shell cordovan tanning process takes at least 6 months, there are many different steps that ultimately effect the final color (mostly the natural materials and extracts that we use, as they constantly vary themselves). We do our absolute best to match colors, and we even pick shells that have the proper character when we produce lighter colors."

Color 2 Cordovan. Also know as Garnet Cordovan. Also known as Ruby Cordovan. Shown here is the Löf & Tung Abreau in Garnet Cordovan. Picture from the very first LT GMTO ever produced.

Color 4 Cordovan. This is hard to produce, according to Nick Horween, and thus quite rare. Picture inserted from URL, not Skoaktiebolaget property.

Color 6 Cordovan. We have never actually made a pair of shoes in this. Very rare. Picture inserted from URL, not Skoaktiebolaget property.

Color 8 Cordovan. Also know as Burgundy Cordovan. Enzo Bonafé Penny Loafer. Usually in stock at Skoaktiebolaget.

Natural Cordovan. Possibly what Carmina Shoemaker calls Saddle Cordovan.

Amaretto Cordovan. Picture inserted from URL, not Skoaktiebolaget property.

Armagnac Cordovan. Also know as Cognac Cordovan, before it was renamed by Horween.

Dark Cognac Cordovan. Quite possibly an accidental darker shade of Cognac Cordovan. Now it's supposedly just called Cognac Cordovan. Featured below is the Löf & Tung Scott in Dark Cognac.

Mahogany Cordovan. Longwing by Enzo Bonafè.

Cigar Cordovan. Exclusive to Alden. Picture inserted from URL, not Skoaktiebolaget property.

Black Cordovan. Classic derby from Carmina Shoemaker.

Dark Green Cordovan. MTO from Skoaktiebolaget / Carmina.

Navy Cordovan. Shown here on a Carmina MTO double monk from Skoaktiebolaget.

Gunmetal Cordovan. Quite an obscure color that you seldom see. Picture by Rider Boot Co.

Intense Blue Cordovan. Another rare color that you seldom see. Picture by Viberg Boots.

Ravello Cordovan. Might be the most coveted of all colors. Extremely rare. And extremely beautiful. Picture not by Skoaktiebolaget, found on the web.

Ultraviolet Cordovan. Rare for a good reason. Picture by AA Crack.

Added to these plain color options are also a few printed options. More on that another time! All pictures copyright Skoaktiebolaget unless otherwise stated.

 

[Leaves]

Article copied from our website. Let me know if you have any feedback. There's a lot of confusion in regards of the Horween colors in general. Sometimes the info I have received from Horween themselves contradicts, so it's not that easy!

Horween Cordovan Colors

Today we are having a look at some Horween Cordovan colors. There are a few makers of Shell Cordovan but none are as famous as Horween (Chicago). At Skoaktiebolaget we have always exclusively used Horween Cordovan. I've had the pleasure to meet both Skip Horween and Nick Horween at different...

www.skoaktiebolaget.com

 

[Zerase]

I cannot find any Saphir creme on your website, but can you tell me what colour I should use for my country calf Clarks?

 

[Leaves]

I cannot find any Saphir creme on your website, but can you tell me what colour I should use for my country calf Clarks?

Unfortunately we can't ship creams outside of Europe as it's classed as flammable.

I'd use the "medium brown" one.

 

[Zerase]

Tack så mycket!

 

[Meyboom]

Today we are having a look at some Horween Cordovan colors. There are a few makers of Shell Cordovan but none are as famous as Horween (Chicago). At Skoaktiebolaget we have always exclusively used Horween Cordovan.

I've had the pleasure to meet both Skip Horween and Nick Horween at different leather fairs and they are both very pleasant people to deal with. Cordovan is notoriously difficult to color and thus you will see tons of variations of the different color options. Don't be surprised of there are some variations even on the same pair of shoes. Clients need to understand that this is a very natural type of leather that has both some natural occurring scuffs and differences in hues.

Nick Horween:
"Since the shell cordovan tanning process takes at least 6 months, there are many different steps that ultimately effect the final color (mostly the natural materials and extracts that we use, as they constantly vary themselves). We do our absolute best to match colors, and we even pick shells that have the proper character when we produce lighter colors."

Color 2 Cordovan. Also know as Garnet Cordovan. Also known as Ruby Cordovan. Shown here is the Löf & Tung Abreau in Garnet Cordovan. Picture from the very first LT GMTO ever produced.

Color 4 Cordovan. This is hard to produce, according to Nick Horween, and thus quite rare. Picture inserted from URL, not Skoaktiebolaget property.

Color 6 Cordovan. We have never actually made a pair of shoes in this. Very rare. Picture inserted from URL, not Skoaktiebolaget property.

Color 8 Cordovan. Also know as Burgundy Cordovan. Enzo Bonafé Penny Loafer. Usually in stock at Skoaktiebolaget.

Natural Cordovan. Possibly what Carmina Shoemaker calls Saddle Cordovan.

Amaretto Cordovan. Picture inserted from URL, not Skoaktiebolaget property.

Armagnac Cordovan. Also know as Cognac Cordovan, before it was renamed by Horween.

Dark Cognac Cordovan. Quite possibly an accidental darker shade of Cognac Cordovan. Now it's supposedly just called Cognac Cordovan. Featured below is the Löf & Tung Scott in Dark Cognac.

Mahogany Cordovan. Longwing by Enzo Bonafè.

Cigar Cordovan. Exclusive to Alden. Picture inserted from URL, not Skoaktiebolaget property.

Black Cordovan. Classic derby from Carmina Shoemaker.

Dark Green Cordovan. MTO from Skoaktiebolaget / Carmina.

Navy Cordovan. Shown here on a Carmina MTO double monk from Skoaktiebolaget.

Gunmetal Cordovan. Quite an obscure color that you seldom see. Picture by Rider Boot Co.

Intense Blue Cordovan. Another rare color that you seldom see. Picture by Viberg Boots.

Ravello Cordovan. Might be the most coveted of all colors. Extremely rare. And extremely beautiful. Picture not by Skoaktiebolaget, found on the web.

Ultraviolet Cordovan. Rare for a good reason. Picture by AA Crack.

Added to these plain color options are also a few printed options. More on that another time! All pictures copyright Skoaktiebolaget unless otherwise stated.

Thank you for the overview. Is Bourbon cordovan the same as Color 4?

 

[dangerous]

What colours are available from L&T @Leaves? I can wait for a while if it takes time to source.

 

[Leaves]

What colours are available from L&T @Leaves? I can wait for a while if it takes time to source.

In stock I have Color 8.

I can source Black and Green. There’s also some Armagnac but I try to avoid it as its color is all over the place and usually very hard to work with. Hard to match the panels.

 

[Beav]

In stock I have Color 8.

I can source Black and Green. There’s also some Armagnac but I try to avoid it as its color is all over the place and usually very hard to work with. Hard to match the panels.

I'd love to have green as an option!

I dont know if others feel like this... but I love Armagnac-like colors, and have shoes like this that have slightly different shades between the panels and kind of like it. I see it as just part of the charm of the shoes. I can appreciate not wanting to sell shoes with this characteristic as some people buying them might not appreciate panels that are not perfectly matched.