Question about 3 piece suit

[creynolds]

Hey all,

I am new here and recently started to upgrade my look and wardrobe. To that end, I picked up a MTM 3 piece suit last night and everything seemed great. You know the feeling, new suit, well tailored, love how it looks. Well, after wearing it for a few hours today, I realized that my belt and shirt show just at the bottom of the vest. Right at the inverted V. Not sure how I feel about it. Initially, I didn't like it. Then I thought well maybe its okay. Traditionally speaking, you shouldn't see the shirt or belt, right?

Thoughts?

Cole

 

[dieworkwear]

Yes, you are correct. The belt and shirt should not show below the buttoning point.

 

[creynolds]

Thanks! So, should I ask the tailor remake the vest?

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks! So, should I ask the tailor remake the vest?

Did this person also make the trousers? Oftentimes, this occurs because the trousers are too low in the rise.

 

[Andy57]

The trousers for a three-piece suit should not be worn with a belt. I think there is no practical way to keep the belt hidden and it adds bulk around the waist. You should either use self-supporting trousers with side adjusters or (better) trousers with suspenders (braces). The trousers should also have a high enough rise to provide sufficient overlap with the bottom of the waistcoat. Regular-rise trousers will not work and results in the gap that you describe.

My recommendation would be to either get the trousers remade with a high rise (and no belt loops) or simply don't wear the waistcoat.

 

[creynolds]

Did this person also make the trousers? Oftentimes, this occurs because the trousers are too low in the rise.

Yes, the same person made the suit and waist coat. And, yes, the trousers are low rise. They just fit me better.

 

[dieworkwear]

Yes, the same person made the suit and waist coat. And, yes, the trousers are low rise. They just fit me better.

If that's the case, the trousers need to be remade, or you have to live with the shirt and belt showing. Remaking the vest will result in an oddly long vest.

 

[creynolds]

I hate high rise trousers. I am constantly pulling my pants up and I dont like the feel like they fit right. Im gonna reach out to the tailor to discuss. Im not crazy about braces either, but that might be my only recourse.

The trousers for a three-piece suit should not be worn with a belt. I think there is no practical way to keep the belt hidden and it adds bulk around the waist. You should either use self-supporting trousers with side adjusters or (better) trousers with suspenders (braces). The trousers should also have a high enough rise to provide sufficient overlap with the bottom of the waistcoat. Regular-rise trousers will not work and results in the gap that you describe.

My recommendation would be to either get the trousers remade with a high rise (and no belt loops) or simply don't wear the waistcoat.

 

[creynolds]

If that's the case, the trousers need to be remade, or you have to live with the shirt and belt showing. Remaking the vest will result in an oddly long vest.

So, just to give everyone an idea of my body type, I am 6'2" and weigh about 235 with an 48" chest and 38" waist. With that said, I think I could get away with a longer vest, but want to hear what others think.

Would a picture help?

 

[Andy57]

I hate high rise trousers. I am constantly pulling my pants up and I dont like the feel like they fit right. Im gonna reach out to the tailor to discuss. Im not crazy about braces either, but that might be my only recourse.

That's entirely your prerogative. But, I would say that if you don't want to wear high-rise trousers, then don't wear a three-piece suit. It's never going to look like you imagine it will look.

Trousers made with a high rise (say to your navel) should be cut to be very loose around the waist. In fact, they should just about fall right off your body if you let them go. That's what braces are for and properly adjusted braces hold the trousers at the ideal height (to give however much break you prefer) and you do not have to constantly pull your pants up. Having them cut with plenty of room around the waist means that the trousers will remain comfortable when you sit down. If high rise trousers stay up without braces then they are too tight.

But, as I wrote, it's entirely up to you. But the answer to the question how do I prevent a gap between the top of my trousers and the bottom of my waistcoat? is, have your trousers made with a high-enough rise.

So, just to give everyone an idea of my body type, I am 6'2" and weigh about 235 with an 48" chest and 38" waist. With that said, I think I could get away with a longer vest, but want to hear what others think.

Would a picture help?

A waistcoat that is obviously too long does not look right. But, try it if you want to. A picture won't make any difference.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I hate high rise trousers. I am constantly pulling my pants up and I dont like the feel like they fit right. Im gonna reach out to the tailor to discuss. Im not crazy about braces either, but that might be my only recourse.

what you consider “high rise” is in fact a normal rise. A suit should not have a lower than normal rise. A suit is about balance between the top and the bottom; the jacket and the slacks.

if you’re not crazy about braces, then ask for pull tabs.

 

[creynolds]

what you consider “high rise” is in fact a normal rise. A suit should not have a lower than normal rise. A suit is about balance between the top and the bottom; the jacket and the slacks.

if you’re not crazy about braces, then ask for pull tabs.

So, my trousers sit a little under by belly button. Is that low rise?

 

[Despos]

The natural resting position for a trouser is when the waistband seam is just above or sitting on your hip bone.
The seam where the waistband is sewn to the trouser.
When the trouser sits lower they tend to not stay up and slide down constantly.
Make the rise higher or lower is personal styling preference.

OP, you are getting used to wearing tailored clothing. Maybe you have mostly worn jeans and want all trousers to feel/fit like jeans. Tailored trousers are different than jeans and there are many ways to create a comfortable, good looking silhouette that you will like wearing. Takes time to find what works and allow time to adjust to a new fit.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

So, my trousers sit a little under by belly button. Is that low rise?

see above.

 

[creynolds]

Thanks all for the replies. Learning a lot.

Looks like my trousers are sitting right on my hip bone, maybe a little above. At this position, they do not seem to move much.