Preventing fades in selvedge denim

[Lancaster]

Hi @lancaster,

Yes, I've had limited success with a vinegar wash. I have a pair of Unbranded Brand #UB101s that I've worn for about 13 months and are just beginning to show some light fading (honeycombs and whiskers). Although they are still ok for work, I've ordered a new pair to replace them. The cost has been that the crotch blew out of them about 6 month in, as I have only washed them once (since the original vinegar soak), and I had to have them repaired.

Selvege denim is extremely fragile - it wears out fast and fades quickly. I still feel like I'm getting ripped off by paying more for selvedge, when it should be significantly cheaper. But I cannot beat the feel of new UB101s.

Thanks. I am new to denim (I got my first pair of jeans a few months ago in over fifteen years of buying my own clothing). Why do people want Selvedge? Is is because of the selvedge ID showing up when the pants are cuffed? I would have thought that the weave was more durable but it seems that your experience has been that the opposite is true. Also, why did you only wash them once? Would subsequent washing encouraged more fading?

 

[cadmonkey]



Thanks.  I am new to denim (I got my first pair of jeans a few months ago in over fifteen years of buying my own clothing).  Why do people want Selvedge? Is is because of the selvedge ID showing up when the pants are cuffed? I would have thought that the weave was more durable but it seems that your experience has been that the opposite is true.  Also, why did you only wash them once? Would subsequent washing encouraged more fading?

All things being equal, selvedge fabric is woven on smaller looms which takes more time to weave=intrinsically higher cost. This is before any cmt (cut/make/trim) even takes place. Other things like aesthetics also come into play, but most would agree a self finished edge is more beautiful than an overlocked seam.

IME washing more frequently won't discourage fading, but fades will be much less contrast so if you don't want the highs and lows of wiskering/combs that could be a way to go. It will definitely help against blowouts which occur from buildup of bacteria.

 

[noremac]



Thanks.  I am new to denim (I got my first pair of jeans a few months ago in over fifteen years of buying my own clothing).  Why do people want Selvedge? Is is because of the selvedge ID showing up when the pants are cuffed? I would have thought that the weave was more durable but it seems that your experience has been that the opposite is true.  Also, why did you only wash them once? Would subsequent washing encouraged more fading?

I think selvedge is a hipster trend. People love rare and expensive things that are finicky and allows them to be connoisseurs. Mainly, people like the status symbol that the "self-edge" provides - it shows that they paid a lot of money.

I don't wash my jeans so that they stay as dark as possible for as long as possible. However, the advice on Style Forum and among denim-heads varies widely. Some say that one should never ever wash selvedge, and others say that you should wash it often. My feeling is that people take their personal preferences and state them as universal rules. In any case, the downside of not washing denim is that the fabric breaks down quicker. My experience is that selvedge is comfortable, as it molds to my body. However, every wash dramatically reduces the indigo, so after a few washes, they are done. Selvedge has a very short life. Ultimately, you can have dark selvedge that doesn't last, or faded selvedge that lasts slightly longer. In short, it is a luxury and status product, not a practical one.

 

[dieworkwear]



I think selvedge is a hipster trend. People love rare and expensive things that are finicky and allows them to be connoisseurs. Mainly, people like the status symbol that the "self-edge" provides - it shows that they paid a lot of money.

I don't wash my jeans so that they stay as dark as possible for as long as possible. However, the advice on Style Forum and among denim-heads varies widely. Some say that one should never ever wash selvedge, and others say that you should wash it often. My feeling is that people take their personal preferences and state them as universal rules. In any case, the downside of not washing denim is that the fabric breaks down quicker. My experience is that selvedge is comfortable, as it molds to my body. However, every wash dramatically reduces the indigo, so after a few washes, they are done. Selvedge has a very short life. Ultimately, you can have dark selvedge that doesn't last, or faded selvedge that lasts slightly longer. In short, it is a luxury and status product, not a practical one.

It sounds like you just want dressy jeans, which is fine. And jeans that last long, which is also fine. But you've misunderstood why people buy raw, selvedge. Yes, the fabric breaks down. That's kind of the point.

If you just want dark jeans, there are lots of options out there. No reason to pay $300 for a pair that's purposely built to fade nicely.

 

[Lancaster]

Thanks guys. @dieworkwear. I am not particular, at least at this point, about selvedge or even raw denim. I do like denim, and I do like my denim dark. I havenonlynlookes ar Gustin but from what I have seen, I like indigo, black, brown, gray, burgundy and the other unusual colors they offer. Can you suggest other brands hat offer quality denim in these ranges of colors? Thanks!

 

[Todd Shelton]

Black denim is going to fade, there’s no way around it. Some denim mills may use better dye and dyeing techniques to keep it blacker longer – but there’s no silver bullet. Washing, abrasion from wear, and possibly even light exposure causes loss of black color. Maybe you can reserve one pair and only wear when you need that clean black look.

As for selvedge quality... I think that denim mills that are weaving selvedge denim have a more “craftsman” approach to manufacturing – compared to larger mills that are more “efficiency” or “cost” focused. Selvedge mills may choose more expensive yarn, more special dyes, and create surfaces that are more interesting to look at – that’s why they could be considered higher quality. Similar to the comparison of massive breweries and craft breweries – Coors is probably a hiqh-quality beer, but it doesn’t taste as interesting as Dogfish Head.

 

[dieworkwear]



Thanks guys. @dieworkwear. I am not particular, at least at this point, about selvedge or even raw denim. I do like denim, and I do like my denim dark. I havenonlynlookes ar Gustin but from what I have seen, I like indigo, black, brown, gray, burgundy and the other unusual colors they offer. Can you suggest other brands hat offer quality denim in these ranges of colors? Thanks!

I think quality is sometimes too much of a vague word.

It just depends on what you're going for. If you want a stiffer denim, then maybe you want a mid-weight jean or something. If you want something that fades/ ages nicely, then maybe you want raw. If you want comfort and something super slim, maybe you want a stretch blend. If you want something that stays super dark, maybe you want something dyed with indanthrene as mentioned above, or made with some kind of hard-to-fade black fabric.

Unless you're buying bottom of the barrel clothes, most things aren't going to fall apart on you. Especially on something as sturdy as denim. Cheap Levis will last for years and years. Even Gap.

The nice thing about Gustin is that they offer raw, selvedge jeans for an affordable price. But there's no reason to equate "raw" and "selvedge" with "quality." They're used for specific purposes, and if someone was after a different purpose, they wouldn't necessarily have to care about those features.

IMO, there's this weird thing where a bunch of people are going for raw, selvedge denim just because they're told that's what they should buy. Cause it's quality or artisanal or better or whatever. But then you wind up with guys like OP, who get it and follow all the "rules," but then get confused when they start to fade or break down.

A guy who wants a light-blue, skinny, comfortable jean isn't going to want some mid-weight, raw denim. He'd want a washed, lightweight stretch-blend.

 

[Tinkertrain]

I found Unbranded from Blue Owl Workshop to be a really hard to fade jean

 

[mrpoizun]

Are you washing them too frequently? I assume your office work does not require you to sweat, so unless you have an intestinal gas problem, your jeans should not need to be washed more than every dozen wearings or so. When you do wash them, I'm sure you know to turn them inside out so some of the dye gets reset onto the outside surface of the denim. Rotating five or six or more pairs of jeans will also slow the fading process.
Beyond that have you considered saving your selvage jeans for bar-hopping, motorcycling or other leisure-time activities and wearing modern jeans that fade slower to work?

 

[daizawaguy]

Wash with a soap that does not contain chemicals that are meant to whiten. That means special soaps for denim only. Washing with a normal detergent is going to destroy the color very quickly. How many people use special soaps? This way I've found very little fading through washing and I wash inside out and every 20 wears or so, alternating jeans often.

 

[maxalex]



Wash with a soap that does not contain chemicals that are meant to whiten. That means special soaps for denim only. Washing with a normal detergent is going to destroy the color very quickly. How many people use special soaps? This way I've found very little fading through washing and I wash inside out and every 20 wears or so, alternating jeans often.

Use Woolite Dark Care.

 

[Lancaster]

Thanks guys. @dieworkwear I know precious little about denim. I ended up at Gustin primarily for the slim cut and the range of dark denims. I certainly do not need stiff so raw is not requisite. I skim J crew every once in a while but their offerings are pedestrian and not in the colors that I am looking for.

 

[Lancaster]

@Tinkertrain thanks for the tip. I'll check them out.

 

[Lancaster]

@mrpoizun my office work does not at all induce sweat. Indeed, when I am really working hard the only indication is that I'll rest my feet on my desk. OP sounds like he washes his jeans more than I anticipate doing.

 

[Lancaster]

@daizawaguy@maxalex thanks for the tips.