Please provide feedback on my first bespoke suit

[DoctorChipper]

This suit was commissioned by a local bespoke tailor that has a good reputation in my city. He has been in business for many decades servicing mainly local clients. On the collection day, I made the mistake of leaving with my suit without spending enough time examining every angle of it. Within an hour of arriving home, I noticed some eye-sores in the fit that I'm alarmed no one caught. I called in the same day and confirmed they are willing to do minor tweaks still. So, please, give me your candid feedback on the fit. I want to compile as much feedback as I can. Feel free to discuss your opinions on stylistic choices, too.

It is a four season 120s charcoal fabric by Gladstone. The intended goal was a conservative business suit. While the jacket is fully bespoke, I was surprised to find out that the trousers were completely finished (every seam sewn, buttons attached, etc.) on the basted jacket fitting/first fitting day, without ever wearing a fitting garment for the trousers. Does this mean my bespoke suit is actually a bespoke jacket with MTM matching trousers? I had two fittings for the jacket, and everything is done on-site.

During the fittings, my dress shirt sleeve ended about where the jacket sleeve ends. He recommended I purchase dress shirts with sleeves that are 0.5" longer and I was told all my dress shirts at the time were 0.5" short in the sleeves. He didn't seem to be willing to cut the jacket sleeve any shorter, as it looked proper to him. In the pictures, I am now wearing a dress shirt with sleeves exactly 0.5" longer than the ones I wore for the fitting. Do you agree with his assessment?

When I asked about the excess fabric on the back of the jacket, I was told that was deliberately left there to give me more mobility. They said that they could get rid of it, but they don't recommend it. Has anyone been told something similar before? Did you choose to get rid of the excess fabric in favor of a cleaner back?

The back of my right armpit looks kind of scrunched up? It's a bit hard to see unless you specifically look for it, but I'm wondering if that is just a consequence of the jacket back creases.

The back of the trousers looks terrible. I have no idea how no one caught that. Regarding the break, I approved of the amount of break during the fittings. Now I think it looks excessive. Is there anything specific I should point out about my trousers fit, besides "it looks messy"?

 

[bdavro23]

There is a Tailor fit and feedback thread here that would be helpful. I'll find the link and paste it below. With that said, we have seen much worse. I am not a tailor, but the shoulder slope is off which is causing the diagonal creasing on the back. Other than that, the jacket looks pretty good. The sleeves length needs to be evened out, but thats no big deal. The pants need more work, but I'll leave that to the tailors to discuss.

Also, welcome. We're mostly nice here, feel free to stick around.

**Edit** https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...tion-suggestions.265924/page-538#post-9708177

 

[DrapeCut]

Yawn....looks like any regular suit. Could easily pass for a Macy's "DKNY" separates ensemble. You probably spent way too much for what this is.

 

[ter1413]

Agree with ^.

Looks like a plain suit...nothing special.

My comments:
-The pants could be made after the first fitting. They are "standard" and really look as if nothing special needed to be done that would require more time.
-Sleeves on the suit jacket are fine. The front of the jacket isn't bad at all.
-Pant length is too long. Needs to be taken up.
-2 fittings? Did you have on a proper shirt and shoes each time?

 

[DoctorChipper]

There is a Tailor fit and feedback thread here that would be helpful. I'll find the link and paste it below. With that said, we have seen much worse. I am not a tailor, but the shoulder slope is off which is causing the diagonal creasing on the back. Other than that, the jacket looks pretty good. The sleeves length needs to be evened out, but thats no big deal. The pants need more work, but I'll leave that to the tailors to discuss.

Also, welcome. We're mostly nice here, feel free to stick around.

**Edit** https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...tion-suggestions.265924/page-538#post-9708177

Hey @bdavro23 thanks for the welcome. I'll post just the jacket back and trouser back pictures on the tailor's thread for more opinions then. Based on your comment about the shoulder slope being off, causing the creases on the back... I know you qualified by saying "I am not a tailor," but does that mean you think the creases on the back probably weren't left there "on purpose?" I feel very confused and uneasy regarding the jacket back creases because based on the pictures I see on StyleForum, I've never seen a bespoke jacket with those creases. Further, I often read comments complimenting people on "clean backs." The tailor's assistant told me over the phone that they can try to get rid of the creases, but I will have less mobility as a consequence. Seeing as so many bespoke jackets have clean backs, how valid is the claim of hindered mobility?

Do you mean sleeve length between right and left arms, or sleeve length compared to dress shirt?

 

[DoctorChipper]

Agree with ^.

Looks like a plain suit...nothing special.

My comments:
-The pants could be made after the first fitting. They are "standard" and really look as if nothing special needed to be done that would require more time.
-Sleeves on the suit jacket are fine. The front of the jacket isn't bad at all.
-Pant length is too long. Needs to be taken up.
-2 fittings? Did you have on a proper shirt and shoes each time?

@ter1413 Is it a plain suit because I asked for a conservative business suit as my first ever commission, or is it plain for other reasons? Completely serious question. My intended use is for a very conservative industry, where I have never seen anyone wearing an "exciting" suit, unfortunately. My personal goal was to nail down fit issues I could never resolve on OTR and MTM, and to obviously develop a pattern that can be used for more exciting suits in the future.
- By first fitting do you mean measurement/consultation day, or are you referring to a basted/forward fitting? I had my trouser measurements taken along with my jacket measurements on the consultation day -> and then when I came in for my basted fitting for the jacket, the trouser was completely finished without ever having a "fitting" experience. Is what I experienced still considered a "bespoke suit"? I feel like this matches the definition of MTM trousers, which has me concerned.
- 2 fittings for jacket, 0 "fittings" for trousers. Yes to shirt and shoes.

 

[DoctorChipper]

-

 

[dieworkwear]

I'm also not a tailor, but my impressions are:

1. The lines on the back of the jacket, as Bdavaro noted, seem to be caused by an incorrect shoulder slope. That's my impression anyway. If you raised your shoulder a little, you may see these lines go away. An adjustment on this shouldn't restrict movement.

2. The trousers, as you noted, should be shortened a little.

3. The back of the trousers should also be cleaned up. In my experience, this can be done by shortening the back rise and letting out the crotch a little. A good alterations tailor should be able to do this for about $100.

4. Overall, the suit seems like it'll be perfectly serviceable once you get the alterations made. I feel like it lacks a little something in terms of style though, so I'm not sure I'd recommend going back to that tailor.

Usual caveats that all this information should be taken with a heap of salt and you should get a professional tailor's opinion, preferably one that you can see in person.

 

[bdavro23]

Hey @bdavro23 thanks for the welcome. I'll post just the jacket back and trouser back pictures on the tailor's thread for more opinions then. Based on your comment about the shoulder slope being off, causing the creases on the back... I know you qualified by saying "I am not a tailor," but does that mean you think the creases on the back probably weren't left there "on purpose?" I feel very confused and uneasy regarding the jacket back creases because based on the pictures I see on StyleForum, I've never seen a bespoke jacket with those creases. Further, I often read comments complimenting people on "clean backs." The tailor's assistant told me over the phone that they can try to get rid of the creases, but I will have less mobility as a consequence. Seeing as so many bespoke jackets have clean backs, how valid is the claim of hindered mobility?

Do you mean sleeve length between right and left arms, or sleeve length compared to dress shirt?

There is a difference between "drape", and the diagonal creases on your jacket. Your jacket has an incorrect shoulder slope, which is cut too square for your body, causing diagonal creases. Drape refers to a type of jacket cut where there are vertical folds of fabric at the chest and back, next to the sleeve attachment. Generally this produces a comfortable, roomy coat that some people love. I am not one of those people, and this jacket is in no way a drape cut. If the tailor is adament that they left those diagonal creases there on purpose, find another tailor.

The only way having the creases cleaned up would restrict movement is if they do it incorrectly. Again, I am not a tailor and will refer you to professionals for the necessary fix. Good luck.

 

[Despos]

@ter1413 Is it a plain suit because I asked for a conservative business suit as my first ever commission, or is it plain for other reasons? Completely serious question. My intended use is for a very conservative industry, where I have never seen anyone wearing an "exciting" suit, unfortunately. My personal goal was to nail down fit issues I could never resolve on OTR and MTM, and to obviously develop a pattern that can be used for more exciting suits in the future.
- By first fitting do you mean measurement/consultation day, or are you referring to a basted/forward fitting? I had my trouser measurements taken along with my jacket measurements on the consultation day -> and then when I came in for my basted fitting for the jacket, the trouser was completely finished without ever having a "fitting" experience. Is what I experienced still considered a "bespoke suit"? I feel like this matches the definition of MTM trousers, which has me concerned.
- 2 fittings for jacket, 0 "fittings" for trousers. Yes to shirt and shoes.

The suit looks pretty good but also has a few issues.Their work is very clean and looks well made. It is normal to need some tweaks on a first suit so I will hold off until they can see the suit and make any adjustments. Before you take the suit back, I suggest you wear it once or twice. Some things may come to your attention by wearing it for a day or two that you may not notice just trying it on for a few minutes.

Sometimes there are communication issues of what you ask for and what they think that means. Did you have a suit with you when you were measured to discuss and show them what your fit issues were? Many of the issues here could be their interpretation of what a "conservative fit" might be.
Were you looking for an easy fitting jacket and increased movement?

The shoulder slope doesn't look off to my eye. There is fullness in the blades that can be reduced. A lot depends on your tolerance and what feels right to you. Some guys can wear very close fitting backs and feel comfortable and some not.
Not every tailor feels it is necessary to make a basted trouser fitting. It doesn't mean the trouser is MTM because they didn't do a basted fitting. Give them a chance to adjust the trouser. If you have a trouser you like, take it with you for a visual comparison.

 

[bdavro23]

The suit looks pretty good but also has a few issues.Their work is very clean and looks well made. It is normal to need some tweaks on a first suit so I will hold off until they can see the suit and make any adjustments. Before you take the suit back, I suggest you wear it once or twice. Some things may come to your attention by wearing it for a day or two that you may not notice just trying it on for a few minutes.

Sometimes there are communication issues of what you ask for and what they think that means. Did you have a suit with you when you were measured to discuss and show them what your fit issues were? Many of the issues here could be their interpretation of what a "conservative fit" might be.
Were you looking for an easy fitting jacket and increased movement?

The shoulder slope doesn't look off to my eye. There is fullness in the blades that can be reduced. A lot depends on your tolerance and what feels right to you. Some guys can wear very close fitting backs and feel comfortable and some not.
Not every tailor feels it is necessary to make a basted trouser fitting. It doesn't mean the trouser is MTM because they didn't do a basted fitting. Give them a chance to adjust the trouser. If you have a trouser you like, take it with you for a visual comparison.

Chris,

With the caveat that I would defer to your diagnosis, could you provide a little more detail as to the remedy for the additional fullness in the blades? In my MTM program, those creases are a telltale sign of needing to increase the slope of the shoulder, thereby reducing the back panels at the outer edges. I dont know if I am explaining this well, but I am having trouble locating the diagram that details this operation. Thanks for sharing your experience.

 

[Despos]

Fullness and the diagonal lines are separate issues. The diagonal line is caused by a short back. Back can be raised, diagonal lines will go away without adjusting the shoulder slope. He has a very low right shoulder.
His body type is very close to Simon Crompton. This tailor did a good job to balance the shoulder to hip proportions. Front of jacket is very clean

 

[DoctorChipper]

I'm also not a tailor, but my impressions are:

1. The lines on the back of the jacket, as Bdavaro noted, seem to be caused by an incorrect shoulder slope. That's my impression anyway. If you raised your shoulder a little, you may see these lines go away. An adjustment on this shouldn't restrict movement.

2. The trousers, as you noted, should be shortened a little.

3. The back of the trousers should also be cleaned up. In my experience, this can be done by shortening the back rise and letting out the crotch a little. A good alterations tailor should be able to do this for about $100.

4. Overall, the suit seems like it'll be perfectly serviceable once you get the alterations made. I feel like it lacks a little something in terms of style though, so I'm not sure I'd recommend going back to that tailor.

Usual caveats that all this information should be taken with a heap of salt and you should get a professional tailor's opinion, preferably one that you can see in person.

Hey, thanks! I've been reading your blogs for a long time.

 

[DoctorChipper]

Fullness and the diagonal lines are separate issues. The diagonal line is caused by a short back. Back can be raised, diagonal lines will go away without adjusting the shoulder slope. He has a very low right shoulder.
His body type is very close to Simon Crompton. This tailor did a good job to balance the shoulder to hip proportions. Front of jacket is very clean

Thanks for your input, Chris. I didn't say I wanted a fuller jacket, but when I tried on my finished trousers at the first fitting, they needed to be let out in both the waist and seat. They are now comfortable, and I do have a strong preference for roomy trousers. Do you agree with dieworkwear's remedy for the lines on the back of the trousers? "shortening the back rise and letting out the crotch a little."

Let me see if I understand what you're saying. You're saying that there are two issues contributing to me not having a very "clean" back: fullness AND diagonal lines caused by short back. Visually, I am only able to tell what everyone on this thread, including me, is referring to as "diagonal lines". I can't recognize in my pictures where the "fullness" is. Will getting rid of the fullness improve the diagonal lines at all, or no? If it won't, I'd tell my tailor I want to keep the fullness as only the lines bother me and I can't even visually identify where the fullness is. Now.... for fixing the diagonal lines: can either "raising the back" or adjusting shoulder slope be reasonably done to my finished jacket, or is that a change better suited for future commissions?

Also, on my next commission, I plan to have more shoulder padding. Actually, it was a lack of proper communication on my part that resulted in the current light padding. A strong shoulder is my stylistic preference. Can you give me your input on how adding more shoulder padding will affect the fit issue variables I'm currently dealing with?

By the way, as a bespoke tailor, how would you want a client to tell you about diagnoses/remedies to fit issues that he gathered online? I'm not sure whether I should just point at the back of the jacket and trousers and see what he comes up with, or if I should directly relay what the comments here are saying. While I don't want to disrespect him, he did tell me the diagonal lines on the back of the jacket are deliberate and didn't take the initiative to adjust the trousers when I tried them on.

 

[Despos]

Take the suit in and let him make adjustments in his own way. Do not tell him what he should do and don't suggest remedies from online sources. If he can make a suit he can alter a suit. A bit more shoulder pad may be all that is needed. Keep it simple. Ask his opinion on the trouser. First suit is a learning/discovery process for you and the tailor.