New York Shirtmakers at CEGO's price point?

[mr. magoo]

Originally Posted by Chow Chow

Carl, I'm not understanding your comments above. Are you saying your collars are all fused?

In case Carl doesn't sign back on -- customers have a choice of fused or non-fused collars with Carl. I've done both.

 

[knittieguy]

I wanted to emphasize that my placement of CEGO in between Jantzen and Geneva was not meant to slight Carl or disparage his product. I've never tried either CEGO or Geneva shirts, but would buy CEGO shirts in a hearbeat if Carl would just come down to DC to make the rounds. I also think Jantzen shirts are quite well made, but, of course, you have to put up with mail order measuring and Jantzen's infernal customer (dis)service.

My comment was based on my understanding (from reading this forum) that Geneva shirts may contain a bit more intricate tailoring and detail than CEGOs, perhaps because Geneva makes its own shirts and uses almost exclusively high end fabrics while Carl's strength is, from what I've been told, in his fitting experience and his understanding of what styles work well. Whether you think Geneva's shirts are "better" than CEGO's probably depends on how much you value certain attributes and are willing to pay for them.

My point was simply that I don't see a point to searching for another shirtmaker in New York in that price range if Carl is available.

 

[dah328]

Originally Posted by chorse123

You have to post a picture of the shirt jacket when you get a chance. I've considered having one of these made.
+1

I didn't know Carl did them and had pretty much given up on getting one made.

 

[Shirtmaven]

You walk into Geneva and MIke and his son eugene will make you a very nice shirt.
You look through some swatch books. there may be a couple of rolls of fabric. they show you a few collar samples and you will end up with something well made that should fit well.
paris has lots of fabrics in stock as well a the usual assortment of swatchbooks.
Paris deals with a couple of the high end mills like SIC tess. I guess geneva does as well but I can not be sure. Mark, the father at Paris is one of the finest shirtmakers I have ever met.

I have two levels of shirts.Those made in the NJ factory which make 90% of my shirts. we can specify all types of fused and non fused linings. from Very hard to self lined.

My own sewers will do almost anything. At the moment we are making a tuxedo shirt for a rather over the top wedding. Silk jacqaurd bosom on top of off-white cotton broadcloth. Oversized wing collar and an odd looking cuff that I am not up for describing. a matching bow tie as well.
There is also an office filled with fabric, sometimes overflowing. some of the fabric is inexpensive and weird, sample lengths from various designers, linens,cashmere from tip top. I keep swatch books from only a few mills. As a customer, i would much rather handle a shirt length of fabric then a 3 x 5 swatch.

one day I will make it back down to DC.
I am a luddite. Someone needs to show me how to post pictures on the forum. I guess I could read the sticky post!

Does someone want to take photos of my father's Lanvin shirt. and post them. Feel free to do so.
Carl

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

As a customer, i would much rather handle a shirt length of fabric then a 3 x 5 swatch.
+1

Does someone want to take photos of my father's Lanvin shirt. and post them. Feel free to do so.
Carl

That would be awesome. It would be interesting to compare -- let me know what parts would be informative to photograph.

 

[whoopee]

Just received the cashmere shirt Carl made me. The cashmere is from Tip Top. The cloth is not very good and wouldn't work for a real jacket: weave is too loose. But it is very soft and works well in this shirt jacket. Originally I wanted a heavy olive linen but couldn't find it at TT. I am quite happy with it. I went in wanting a more jacket type garment - larger buttons, specifically. but I think these buttons are the right choice. The cuffs are a bit small, but the rest of the fit seems nice and relaxed to me.

 

[mack11211]

The shirt jacket is sweet.

What was the cost of fabric and cost of make?

 

[whoopee]

Thanks. I forget how much the cloth cost. Maybe $100 for the length? Not more than $150 I think.

I remember Carl telling me that the cost of the make is about 2x a regular shirt by the same sewer. Best to contact him for details.

 

[Philosoph]

For some reason, the term "shirt jacket" always had negative connotations for me, but that one looks great.

 

[chorse123]

Thanks for posting the pics, whoopee. Do the cuffs button? It looks like maybe you just left them unbuttoned.

 

[Shirtmaven]

We made this shirt jacket with out a second fitting.
I will have to look at my notes for the cuff size.
We are about to make a scarf for Whoopee out of the leftover fabric. I will have to make sure there is enough for new cuffs if needed.
The fabric was quite nice. very soft.
we lined the inside cuff collar and yoke with black bemberg.
Buttons are 24L smoke mop.
Carl

 

[Virginia Dandy]

Originally Posted by whoopee

This is really nice.

Carl - this made me very wistful. Our friend and I had discussed making something similar about a year ago, but we never got around to it.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by RJman

+1

That would be awesome. It would be interesting to compare -- let me know what parts would be informative to photograph.

I saw the shirt at Car's shop. It is pretty darn impressive.

 

[whoopee]

Originally Posted by chorse123

Thanks for posting the pics, whoopee. Do the cuffs button? It looks like maybe you just left them unbuttoned.

The cuffs do button. But they're a bit small right now, because there was no fitting on this particular shirt jacket.

 

[dah328]

That is a sweet looking shirt jacket. I think I am going to have to pay Carl a visit for one of those.