New Chan stuff (pics)

[Svenn]

Originally Posted by max power

Thanks for the comments, especially those regarding the shoulder issue, which I wouldn't have considered. I'm fairly stocky in the chest/shoulders (among other places), so my inclination has been to avoid shoulder padding, but I suppose it could help the balance with my hips. Also, mao & PG, I did just try shrugging my shoulders a bit and it brought the quarters into better balance (more open).
I actually think your appearance from the chest up is your best asset- you have the sturdy Dmitri Medvedev thing going. I would compliment your large neck with a higher collared shirt, definitely something with a 'back height' greater than 1.75''. Your waist is to wide- I think more open jacket quarters would take away from that... since currently you have way too much fabric down there, which is just accentuating the wide hips. I'm not sure, but maybe greater waist suppression would further accentuate your upper body without doing the waist more harm.

 

[bowtielover]

The right shoulder dose seem to set a bit lower then the left odse, you might want to have a sm pad put in, otherwise a great fit.

 

[kcc]

A fairly generic look. Why single button closure without more open quarters?

 

[HitMan009]

My two cents:

The suit has a downward look to it. The shoulders are too sloped which throws off the balance of the suit. I recommend a bit of padding but in a very slight pagoda style with maybe a bit of roping or maybe not. I would open up the quarters for many reasons but the button stance I think requires an open quarter. I think the flaring of the skirt also makes your shoulder appear small. It should be narrowed down. I think the closed quarters make the suit look "heavy". Can you tell use your height and let us know whether you have a longer torso or legs.... This would help the forum member provide you with a style that has a "younger", "lighter" and upward look to it which I think is the whole point of getting perfect fitting clothing.

 

[gdl203]

I disagree vehemently with all those who say that you should get padding because your shoulders are too sloped. Your shoulders are fine, the shoulders on the jacket on the right look very good and I think the pattern is spot on now so don't mess with that part. Modifications I would make are around waist and quarters - a little more suppression and more open quarters would look good and coherent with the natural shoulder line.

One thing I would note is the excellent job done taking into consideration your right dropped shoulder. No rippling at the waist at all - very nice.

 

[stickonatree]

sloped shoulders give the illusion of a non-well fitting jacket

 

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by stickonatree

sloped shoulders give the illusion of a non-well fitting jacket

No they don't. At all.

 

[Ataturk]

The jacket is a bit short, but his gigantic neck and low shoulders make it look even shorter, from the front at least.

 

[zjpj83]

I like the brown jacket better than the gray. I would like more open quarters, just a hair. Looks good. The button stance is lowerl, but not too low.

 

[max power]

Thanks all for the helpful feedback! To answer a few questions, I am a towering 5'4", longer in the torso than legs, usually take a 38s jacket and size 30 trousers, and have a 16" neck. You all say that I have low shoulders, but I like to think of it as developed traps, natch.

I already asked Patrick to open up the quarters on my next jacket. I also am inclined to add at least 1/4" to the length, since that was my initial thought and I see no strong consensus to the contrary. That said, I am also noticing that at least one of my (side) flaps isn't staying closed right, which may be what is causing the jacket to flare a bit at the hip, so I may go with option (d) above and have Patrick reevaluate in March.

Not sure what, if anything, to do about the shoulders, but the comments about collar height are well taken.

 

[Svenn]

Originally Posted by max power

You all say that I have low shoulders, but I like to think of it as developed traps, natch.
That's very likely what it is. Most people here aren't physiologists, so they don't realize it. Schwarzenegger has the same thing going.

I might suggest trying height-increasing shoes to get you up to a more average 5'8'', that is if it wouldn't be too weird in your work environment to suddenly shoot up 4 inches. Make sure they're top quality though, the high-heel effect they give can be very akward at first and demands comfortable, sound construction.

 

[HitMan009]

Originally Posted by max power

Thanks all for the helpful feedback! To answer a few questions, I am a towering 5'4", longer in the torso than legs, usually take a 38s jacket and size 30 trousers, and have a 16" neck. You all say that I have low shoulders, but I like to think of it as developed traps, natch.

I already asked Patrick to open up the quarters on my next jacket. I also am inclined to add at least 1/4" to the length, since that was my initial thought and I see no strong consensus to the contrary. That said, I am also noticing that at least one of my (side) flaps isn't staying closed right, which may be what is causing the jacket to flare a bit at the hip, so I may go with option (d) above and have Patrick reevaluate in March.

Not sure what, if anything, to do about the shoulders, but the comments about collar height are well taken.

Yeah, that's what I figured. The higher collar stance and padded but NOT extended shoulder with the open quarters should do wonders for a balanced look. The shortness of the coat is noticed because of the closed quarters. Here is a pic I found on london lounge:

See how open the quarters are. This maybe an extreme case but it's good for reference. Even though the coat is rather short, it works for Prince Edwards. Quarters dramatically alters the look a coat.

 

[Svenn]

^Do you have any further sources for pictures of higher collars like in that pic? I've tried searching for 'Edwardian' collars and randomly looking through pics from the 1900's/1910's, but it's hit and miss... was any designer known for that style at the time?

 

[wmb]

looks good to me. no two jackets are exactly alike... but jacket 2 will change and settle with wear as the suit probably has...

 

[TheFoo]

I agree with Greg: there's nothing wrong with shoulders that are less square and the shoulder line here looks pretty good to me. However, I would go with a slightly longer length, open the quarters, and, of course, fix the divets.