Navy Blazer by Committee (aka Garment by Groupthink)

[dieworkwear]

This is pretty good advice. Most of my jackets these days are pretty soft, and I was sort of picturing this one as more structured. Thats what led me to the roped shoulder, more formal vibe, but I can see your point about not changing everything.

I'll start looking for some images of structured notch, 3/2 jackets.

Just some of the stuff I've tried:

- Softer or slightly more padded shoulder
- Slight extension in the shoulder or a more natural, narrow shoulder
- Straight versus bellied lapels
- Close or flared skirt
- Lapel width
- Rope, natural, and "bald" shoulder
- Drape vs clean chest
- Slightly shorter jackets

IMO, all those things can make a big impact on how a jacket looks, but you're still keeping to the same notch, pocket, and button config design.

When I think of some of the men whose style I admire, such as Mark at The Armoury and Geroge at BRIO, I get the impression that they've just tried on a bunch of different silhouettes and have arrived at the one that works best for them. Some guys, like Vox, have stuck with one tailor, so it's not a necessary approach. But instead of doing an unusual config that likely will never see the light of day, I would just use this as one step towards a long process of finding your favourite silhouette.

 

[bry2000]

How likely is it to get a Liverano cut from someone other than Liverano?

 

[bdavro23]

Just some of the stuff I've tried:

- Softer or slightly more padded shoulder
- Slight extension in the shoulder or a more natural, narrow shoulder
- Straight versus bellied lapels
- Close or flared skirt
- Lapel width
- Rope, natural, and "bald" shoulder
- Drape vs clean chest
- Slightly shorter jackets

IMO, all those things can make a big impact on how a jacket looks, but you're still keeping to the same notch, pocket, and button config design.

When I think of some of the men whose style I admire, such as Mark at The Armoury and Geroge at BRIO, I get the impression that they've just tried on a bunch of different silhouettes and have arrived at the one that works best for them. Some guys, like Vox, have stuck with one tailor, so it's not a necessary approach. But instead of doing an unusual config that likely will never see the light of day, I would just use this as one step towards a long process of finding your favourite silhouette.

I will be using my company to make this, so its MTM. There is a lot of variability in terms of what I can do, but it isnt as flexible as bespoke. I have tried most of what you mention above and I'm pretty comfortable with the silhouette I've been using for the last couple of years. That generally has been soft, natural shoulder jackets with a pretty clean chest. I like it and I'm comfortable with the look.

With that said, I sort of want to try something a little different, some variety. I was using formal to describe what I have been thinking about, but I should have said military inspired. More structured chest and shoulder, maybe some roping. I would probably wear the jacket with grey flannels and a tie, rather than more casual configurations.

 

[Thomson]

Sounds like what you have been describing.

 

[emptym]

I love the jacket you are describing, but I feel like I have two examples of this style. The only difference would be if I used a different shoulder treatment on this one. I havent ruled out a notch, but I was looking for a more formal, perhaps more structured style than my usual coats.

Ah, in that case, you just need to get rid of those other two jackets, and have them remade with 3 patch pockets and swelled edges.

Of course, the other difference between the two you have now and the new one as I suggested would be that this one would have one button and the others 3r2.

Another option would be to go for wider lapels and different button materials. I have a navy flannel blazer w very wide lapels (4.5"?), 2 buttons, moderate hacking pockets, and smoked MOP buttons -- and I like it a lot. Imo, it's enough of a difference from my other two blazers (Minnis 10oz fresco and Smiths 4 ply finmeresco), which have 3 patches, swelled edges everywhere (including sleeve, back, and shoulder seams), 3r2 fronts, and horn buttons.

I do get the appeal of peak lapels. In 2005, I visited Kilgour when it was under Carlo Brandelli. They had a neat style for their jackets: peak lapels, single button, hacking pockets, and fairly structured shoulders, iirc. The pockets were slanted so that they aimed right at the button. That and the peak lapels made a pronounced X look, which I liked. I was tempted to get a suit, but I knew I wouldn't be wearing suits much, and I didn't like how it looked as a sport coat.