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Name for "doubled" cuffs on suit jacket

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Bic Pentameter, Sep 18, 2002.

  1. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior Member

    Likes Received:
    May 1, 2002

    In line with ticket pockets, workable sleeve buttons, double vents and other interesting and fun suit details, in several men's fashion magazines I have seen suit coats whose sleeve cuffs had some fabric folded over and sewn onto them. If I had to guess, I'd say that the added fabric was meant to keep the sleeve from fraying prematurely, or that it was originally patched onto the sleeve after the cuff had frayed. (I have heard workable button cuffs referred to as "surgeon's cuffs." Could these be "groom's cuffs"?)

    Two questions:

    1. Does anyone know what these cuffs are called?

    2. Does anyone have an opinion on how they look? Pretentious? Too affected? A nice detail? Good on something tweedy, but not not on something silk?


  2. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Likes Received:
    Mar 23, 2002
    London, UK
    These cuffs are called "gauntlets" and they have been a design feature since Victorian times. They are probably not very much in fashion today, which of course does not stop a designer to dig them out from time to time, just to be different. Maybe three years ago, Ralph Lauren had a penchant for them and used them generously on "Purple Label" suits.

    They are quite essential to dressing gowns and smoking jackets; from there they went on to became a feature on overcoats (no self respecting polo coat without them) or tuxedos (quite often in satin to match the lapels). No, I don't think they are intended to prevent the cuffs from fraying or something as prosaic as that.

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