daizawaguy
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- Jul 13, 2012
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I`ve posted a few threads on Azabu tailor and Cockney Tailor, but thought I`d start a new thread on Japanese suits.
There is very little on the net on Japanese suits, so this should be of benefit to everyone interested in this subject.
The Japanese suit market is huge, with hundreds of manufacturers and retailers competing for a market which is coming under pressure from more casual wear, as well as the `cool biz` summer fashion promoted by both Government and enterprises in the fact of the nuclear and energy issues.
There is a huge `made to order` market, which is essentially a `pattern order` system, where you try on various standard sizes of jackets and trousers, and your differences to these standard patterns are noted and modified on an order form. Its very similar to trying on a 40R jacket, but note that you need slightly longer sleeves, or thicker arm holes, and a tighter waist say. The Japanese use a different measuring and pattern system - http://web.ita.doc.gov/tacgi/overseasnew.nsf/annexview/Japanese+Size+Charts - which has developed along the Japanese physique, and a foreigner has to find the right balance between these sizes.
The pattern order places I have tried are Azabu Tailor, which produce fine suits starting at 39,000 or so, but they tend to cater for a young crowd, and cut or recommend a very tight fit.
The place I have been most surprised with is F-One Suits, which have plenty of branches around Japan, and tend to cater for the `salary-man`, but have really surprised me in terms of what they have produced. They do not follow the system above where you try on pre-cut jackets to find your size, but rather you preferably bring in a suit you like (or don't like, and they can try and adapt that) and they take various measurements whilst you speak to them, and they advise you where you should add or take off measurements.
This all goes into a computer, and the final design is decided. The suits are made over the next month, and the final product is available for you to pick up one month later.
I prefer their system to the other pattern order places, as they are more flexible and stick less to the standard patterns.
All this for a price starting at Y39,000 ($315)! Well done F-One Suits!
There is very little on the net on Japanese suits, so this should be of benefit to everyone interested in this subject.
The Japanese suit market is huge, with hundreds of manufacturers and retailers competing for a market which is coming under pressure from more casual wear, as well as the `cool biz` summer fashion promoted by both Government and enterprises in the fact of the nuclear and energy issues.
There is a huge `made to order` market, which is essentially a `pattern order` system, where you try on various standard sizes of jackets and trousers, and your differences to these standard patterns are noted and modified on an order form. Its very similar to trying on a 40R jacket, but note that you need slightly longer sleeves, or thicker arm holes, and a tighter waist say. The Japanese use a different measuring and pattern system - http://web.ita.doc.gov/tacgi/overseasnew.nsf/annexview/Japanese+Size+Charts - which has developed along the Japanese physique, and a foreigner has to find the right balance between these sizes.
The pattern order places I have tried are Azabu Tailor, which produce fine suits starting at 39,000 or so, but they tend to cater for a young crowd, and cut or recommend a very tight fit.
The place I have been most surprised with is F-One Suits, which have plenty of branches around Japan, and tend to cater for the `salary-man`, but have really surprised me in terms of what they have produced. They do not follow the system above where you try on pre-cut jackets to find your size, but rather you preferably bring in a suit you like (or don't like, and they can try and adapt that) and they take various measurements whilst you speak to them, and they advise you where you should add or take off measurements.
This all goes into a computer, and the final design is decided. The suits are made over the next month, and the final product is available for you to pick up one month later.
I prefer their system to the other pattern order places, as they are more flexible and stick less to the standard patterns.
All this for a price starting at Y39,000 ($315)! Well done F-One Suits!
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