Jacket too tight? Is a highly padded suit OK if the fit is right?

[powderbluestanza]

Is this jacket too tight in the chest? I gained about five pounds but it seems like it was really pulling last time I wore it, although it felt perfectly comfortable (MTM).

I have very square shoulders and live in a small town where it is hard to find a suit that fits around the collar (gap/roll are huge problems). I tried on a suit that fit really good in the neck but was highly padded. I know this suit doesn't fit in other places (shoulder too wide, too big in chest), but, does better fit always beat out style? I liked the neck/collar fit but worry that I will look like I'm coming out of the 80s.

 

[notdos]

Gosh, both are honestly ‘not good’. First one, to small, and button stance is way high. Second one, shoulders are to exaggerated and seems to be pulling across the front. I’d pass on both.

Phillip

 

[endag]

I get the sense that you lack exposure or access to some finer clothes in your town. What's your jacket size?

I realize photos are photos and what have you, but those jackets make your physique look two-dimensional imo. Don't get ripped off.

 

[powderbluestanza]

I get the sense that you lack exposure or access to some finer clothes in your town. What's your jacket size?

I realize photos are photos and what have you, but those jackets make your physique look two-dimensional imo. Don't get ripped off.

My size is the dead zone, and I live in the fashion dead zone (near Leipzig, Germany). In the chest I am 36" so nominally I'm a 36US/46EU, however because of my square shoulders 36/46 RTW has huge collar gap and usually also collar roll. The only way to wear RTW is to go down to 34US/44EU, which mostly solves collar gap, but not the roll, is tight in the chest, the shoulder still isn't quite right, and 34 is a size which you can't buy within at least 150km of here.

I've found only one tailor who knows almost anything about tailoring, the grey suit is their MTM product, but as mentioned it really follows the fashion with the high button stance and tight fit. The nearest Suitsupply is a 2.5 hours away. I have a demanding job and two small demanding toddlers at home, so it's nearly impossible to get full days away from home just to go shopping.

I've bought several suits online and returned them just to try to understand fits (Cavour, Pini Parma, Pal Zileri, Boggi's middle line, and also their full canvas line which is historically made by Caruso) and 44 RTW (from Pini Parma and Boggi full canvas) is the closest I've got so far.

I would appreciate suggestions on how to get something that fits!

 

[powderbluestanza]

Gosh, both are honestly ‘not good’. First one, to small, and button stance is way high. Second one, shoulders are to exaggerated and seems to be pulling across the front. I’d pass on both.

Phillip

The gray suit I made MTM a year ago. For me it was thrilling to have, for the first time in my life, clothes that weren't way too loose (where I grew up US38 was the smallest size). After a dozen wearings, I see however how not great the fit is. Unfortunately the tight chest is the tailor's style, and seems to be the German trend. I asked for an "international, not gaudy German wedding suit" style, but still largely received the trendy style. See our chancellor in action:

Here's the best I could find myself in RTW, which is Pini Parma in 34/44 (without any alterations):

Between my square shoulders and lack of access to decent suit shopping, it looks like travelling to SuitSupply or full Bespoke are my only options.

 

[powderbluestanza]

I realize photos are photos and what have you, but those jackets make your physique look two-dimensional imo. Don't get ripped off.

Sorry to re-quote, but what does two-dimensional mean here? Do you mean that my shoulders look very square? Because they are, I think only bespoke could fix that. Or do you mean it looks like a sack suit?

 

[notdos]

If I can add some color to my original post, it appears that you’re trying to fit into a specific size rather than finding a size that fits.
I would suggest you size up, possibly even into a long.
For example, I’m 6 feet tall and 230 pounds, and actually wear a short in my preferred, ready to wear brand, suit supply.

 

[powderbluestanza]

If I can add some color to my original post, it appears that you’re trying to fit into a specific size rather than finding a size that fits.
I would suggest you size up, possibly even into a long.
For example, I’m 6 feet tall and 230 pounds, and actually wear a short in my preferred, ready to wear brand, suit supply.

I haven't found a size that fits. I want something that doesn't hang down off my shoulders (all my life I've worn clothes like that) and also doesn't have 2cm or more of collar gap. At least for Italian suits, 34/44 is admittedly tight in the chest and rolls in the back, but 36/46 has bad collar gap and very loose around the neck. I can't find a win. 34/44 and trying to let out the chest seems like the best I can do.

I've tried 5 different RTW suits in 36/46 and the collar gap ranges from barely acceptable (Cavour, Asphalte) to horrible (Boggi fused, Boggi half-canvas, Pal Zileri). The tailor here doesn't want to touch collar gap issues. I did try a Lanvin (made by Caruso) in 46R that was better in the collar/shoulders, but at their prices bespoke makes more sense.

I will go back to the tailor with my concerns about the previous MTM, and I will order an RTW from SuitSupply to compare. Any advice on the best line for square shoulders?

 

[endag]

Brooks Brothers -- They mass produce so much stuff that you will undoubtedly find something that fits. They have a lot of variation in their cuts, which they offer based on how fat you are.

Sizing up seems like a good idea, and go long. A lot of guys are wearing their stuff short nowadays and it makes them look small and dainty. The rule of thumb is that the back of the jacket is to cover your entire ass.

 

[powderbluestanza]

Brooks Brothers -- They mass produce so much stuff that you will undoubtedly find something that fits. They have a lot of variation in their cuts, which they offer based on how fat you are.

Sizing up seems like a good idea, and go long. A lot of guys are wearing their stuff short nowadays and it makes them look small and dainty. The rule of thumb is that the back of the jacket is to cover your entire ass.

Brooks Brothers in Europe was sold off to someone in Italy, their German website can't even spell "shirts" correctly. Boggi is generally considered to be the closest in Europe, but their 36/46 doesn't fit in any of the lines I tried.

I asked Boggi's support about what would be the best fit for square shoulders, and got this hilarious non-answer:
"We have available full canvas suits that might be perfect for you, especially considering your body shape with square shoulders. These type of suits tend to take the shape of your body in a natural way, and the shoulder are semi-constructed, which means they follow the line of your shoulders. This feature ensures that the suit fits your body harmoniously, without the need for significant alterations."

I still have a 36/46 Boggi blazer at work I need to return. I'll take a photo so everyone can see what I am talking about.

 

[powderbluestanza]

To reply to the recommendations to upsize, here is a Cavour Model 2 in size 36/46. The chest is more clean and the length covers the seat fully. But there's a lot of collar gap and some asymmetry at the collar, and it doesn't sit on my shoulders well (the lumps on both sides, most notably on the right). Is this really a better fit? I hadn't photographed the back on this suit but it looks like it might be too tight there, even though it's gapping at the collar? I'm starting to feel more lost than when I started...

For your entertainment, here's the collar gap in a 38/48 (very old photo)...

 

[breakaway01]

Your shoulders are indeed quite square; it may well be that no RTW jacket will fit you properly as a result. Sizing up/down won't fix the issue, and I don't think this can be easily solved by alterations. You might be better off with custom but I understand the practical difficulties around that. Although normally online/virtual custom suits are not recommended, there have been some good reviews here of online fitting with Sartoria Pastena:

The Unofficial Sartoria Pastena Elegance Naples Thread

I am starting a thread for Antonio Pastena. This is a small Neapolitan tailoring house who has started doing some trunk shows in the United States and Paris. I understand they opened in 2014 after the father and son had years of experience at Panico, Kiton, and then Rubinacci. He just did a...

www.styleforum.net

 

[powderbluestanza]

Your shoulders are indeed quite square; it may well be that no RTW jacket will fit you properly as a result. Sizing up/down won't fix the issue, and I don't think this can be easily solved by alterations. You might be better off with custom but I understand the practical difficulties around that. Although normally online/virtual custom suits are not recommended, there have been some good reviews here of online fitting with Sartoria Pastena:

The Unofficial Sartoria Pastena Elegance Naples Thread

I am starting a thread for Antonio Pastena. This is a small Neapolitan tailoring house who has started doing some trunk shows in the United States and Paris. I understand they opened in 2014 after the father and son had years of experience at Panico, Kiton, and then Rubinacci. He just did a...

www.styleforum.net

Thank you for this recommendation! I see he is in Frankfurt on a regular basis, I could swing a trip there for a single in-person fitting, if he can do the rest remote.