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Italian Whiskey shell (wait listed for delivery)

Lem87

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Hello. 2nd post, 1st thread. I'm a newbie here. Allow me to start with an apology in advance if I missed anything. I did spend a decent amount of time looking around to see if anyone touched on this in detail already, but either I missed what I was looking for, or there really isnt much relative information here.

You see, I went ahead and got myself on the waiting list for a pair of those Tylor Stitch Italian whiskey shell Ranch boots.

Spending about a month reading about it, all I have managed to gather so far is 1, people prefer horween over it, hands down (I actually have an existing opinion about horween whiskey shades of leather but that's for later discussion) and 2, that Italian whiskey Shell is and stays a lighter shade as it ages than horween, which personally is refreshing to see in posted pictures throughout the web. Could it be Rocado whiskey shell that I will be recieving?

Correct me if I'm wrong with preferably unbiased answers, for the sake of my learning experience. This offering of Taylor Stitch's Ranch boot is an example of exactly the way I like my boots to look, and I have plenty of other more casual style boots that it will be joining in what I can go ahead and call a decent collection at this point (mostly oiled leather, pullup combination tans, and other less waxy or non-oiled chrome leathers).

Obviously, we have this first fact that is entirely new to me, ( well there is a grain of salt there, I have 2 horween whiskey pullup boots, one of them being chromexcel) but anyways, I know shell cordovan is atleast generally a vegetable tanned leather. Chromexcel ages and darkens but, I would imagine that based on what I have read and pictures I have seen, I'm looking at much more dramatic darkening and patina in Shell Cordovan. Is that so? Is there anything I should aim to do immediately, once I recieve the boots that I'll wish I had if I dont? I hear about sensitivities (liquid and aging for example) of the leather and praised durability often in the same mentions of it. Maybe some of you can clear that up for me as well? I would appreciate some beginner's guidance to maintaining shell that comes in lighter shades.
 
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adrs1157

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You don't have to do anything. Shell is a low-maintenance material. The ranch boot is a storm-welted, rubber-soled chelsea on a wide, round last. You don't plan on treating them like dress shoes, do you?

Rolls will develop. A lot. White dusty-looking stuff will form in the rolls when they are new - this is called bloom. Over time, the shell that is exposed to the weather will darken. Areas that abrade will burnish and darken even more. These are all attractive traits in aging shell.
 

zippyh

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Don't know anything about Rocado but Comipel is a more common Italian brand of cordovan. Cordovan doesn't change color anywhere near as quickly nor as dramatically as CXL. Lighter color cordovan tends to darken as it ages and darker color tends to lighten.
 

Lem87

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You don't have to do anything. Shell is a low-maintenance material. The ranch boot is a storm-welted, rubber-soled chelsea on a wide, round last. You don't plan on treating them like dress shoes, do you?

Rolls will develop. A lot. White dusty-looking stuff will form in the rolls when they are new - this is called bloom. Over time, the shell that is exposed to the weather will darken. Areas that abrade will burnish and darken even more. These are all attractive traits in aging shell.
The "rolls" instead of "creases" will be an interesting characteristic.

Some people pull them off better than others in different settings, personally, I'm more of a fan and consumer of the work/ service boot laceups and motorcycle inspired pull-on styles. Ill post some for a better idea of what I mean, when I have time to do so, in the boot thread.

Actually tried these in saddle tan before but the bright orange look of them was not what I was going for,. I did like the robust "big ass chelsea" look.

The shape of the last is a big, no-lace, wide almond toe with some wester flair. Also love the over all construction of the natural sole and heel stack. This all gives the boot a rather rugged appearance for a chelsea. What did you mean by weather? Do you own any lighter shades of shell? I'd like to have the option of using any weather resistant treatments I can use if I want some salt protection.

Don't know anything about Rocado but Comipel is a more common Italian brand of cordovan. Cordovan doesn't change color anywhere near as quickly nor as dramatically as CXL. Lighter color cordovan tends to darken as it ages and darker color tends to lighten.
So italian whiskey shell doesnt change as dramatically as chomexcel? Would have thought the opposite. In this case, italian whiskey shell does not darken beyond a kind of russet tan shade?
 
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zippyh

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Shell in general doesn't change color as much as cxl. Natural CXL will darken if you just look at it.

Whiskey shell darkens but it takes years. It eventually starts to look like Ravello.

Something like #8 will somethings initially develop some lighter color variations on it but once that occurs it stays pretty consistent and also take years to lighten. People sometimes leave their #8 out to develop sun fade. It eventually ends up looking like cigar shell.

I have several pairs of Tricker's in Comipel cordovan. Some have changed in color quite a bit but others have remained pretty consistent colorwise. The ones I have in Teak (closest I have to Whiskey) are pretty consistent as compared to my Horween Whiskey pairs (C&J, Alden, AS) which are darkening albeit slowly.
 

adrs1157

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What did you mean by weather? Do you own any lighter shades of shell? I'd like to have the option of using any weather resistant treatments I can use if I want some salt protection.

Exposure to the elements will cause the leather to change. It will patina and it will be random.

All I'm saying is shell cordovan doesn't need to be babied. It is very durable, long lasting and naturally weather-resistant.

Some people feel the need to 'protect' their investment by applying wax or waterproofing spray or silicone-based products to seal the pores of the leather.

It honestly doesn't need it. Also, by sealing the pores you affect breathability. Foot sweat cannot evaporate, trapping it in the boot and it can lead to mould. This affects the drying time of the leather as well because moisture can't escape as easily. Boots with product on it will take longer.

Obviously this depends on how you plan to use the boots. Unless you are ankle deep in water for long periods of time, water should not get in. If this is the case, then yes, obenauf LP is for you.

The shell will eventually get saturated with water given enough time. It will soak in, especially at crease points, and can hold some water before soaking through completely and getting in your socks. This takes a long time to happen - you'd have to be walking through a rain storm for an hour before you feel anything.

Just care for the edge and welt. If water ever gets in, it's usually via the welt. Wipe any salt off after wear with a damp cloth. If you notice that the factory finish has worn away and water is soaking into the storm welt and midsole easily, get some edge dressing or sealant and refinish the edges.

Shell cordovan uppers are far easier to care for. Just wipe any grime off with a damp cloth and let dry. Brush and you're done. Condition once or twice a year.
 

Lem87

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Exposure to the elements will cause the leather to change. It will patina and it will be random.

All I'm saying is shell cordovan doesn't need to be babied. It is very durable, long lasting and naturally weather-resistant.

Some people feel the need to 'protect' their investment by applying wax or waterproofing spray or silicone-based products to seal the pores of the leather.

It honestly doesn't need it. Also, by sealing the pores you affect breathability. Foot sweat cannot evaporate, trapping it in the boot and it can lead to mould. This affects the drying time of the leather as well because moisture can't escape as easily. Boots with product on it will take longer.

Obviously this depends on how you plan to use the boots. Unless you are ankle deep in water for long periods of time, water should not get in. If this is the case, then yes, obenauf LP is for you.

The shell will eventually get saturated with water given enough time. It will soak in, especially at crease points, and can hold some water before soaking through completely and getting in your socks. This takes a long time to happen - you'd have to be walking through a rain storm for an hour before you feel anything.

Just care for the edge and welt. If water ever gets in, it's usually via the welt. Wipe any salt off after wear with a damp cloth. If you notice that the factory finish has worn away and water is soaking into the storm welt and midsole easily, get some edge dressing or sealant and refinish the edges.

Shell cordovan uppers are far easier to care for. Just wipe any grime off with a damp cloth and let dry. Brush and you're done. Condition once or twice a year.

Ok. What do you choose to condition with and how does vegetable tanned leather show a need to be conditioned?
 

adrs1157

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Ok. What do you choose to condition with and how does vegetable tanned leather show a need to be conditioned?
I use saphir renovateur mainly.

I only have horween cordovan so I can't speak for others, but mine tends to feel rough and look dull when it's dry. If you run your finger along the leather, you'll feel resistance. If you notice water being absorbed very quickly then it's probably dry. Lastly, the colour doesn't look as rich and vibrant and the shine is gone.

I actually have a couple recent posts with pictures.

See here: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...read-reviews-quality-etc.227575/post-10054063

And here: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...eviews-advice-sizing-etc.241469/post-10042720
 

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