Andrew Ryan
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This thread is directed at sport coat, sans tie, and is certainly not directed at the more senior members of the forum, and I'll probably catch hell for it, but whatever. Many of the same principles apply to a suit and white shirt sans tie, but that isn't my focus here. It's intended to show that a white shirt can be properly utilized as an every day go to, contrary to much thinking here, given certain considerations are taken and principles adhered, and a casual context. This thread was, of course, inspired by Manton's wonderful How to Wear a White Shirt thread. For the proper ways to wear a white spread collar shirt with a tie, search there.
First off, the reason this is about going tie-less (but never, ever without a jacket) is that, as has been demonstrated in the aforementioned Manton thread, a white shirt is of, and really can only be so far removed from the context of, the city/formal spectrum. I don't intend to rehash his OP in that thread, but a key point is that a white shirt outside of a suit really only works with a blazer and greys, preferably at night, and in the daytime is 'rarely optimal'. I still hold contention with the 'rarely optimal' bit, as I think context and preference has as lot to do with that - but that's another discussion that's been hashed out in that thread.
So then, since it does work: why? Well, pure white only looks at its best with blue and grey; this should be self-evident, and although white is at its absolute best at night, it still works in the day provided it doesn't wash you out completely (get a tan). Further, a blazer is often more optimal with white than odd jackets as the majority of odd jackets are of the 'country' spectrum that do not resolve to a solid up close. That said, there are many odd jackets - that are really more 'sportcoat' than 'odd jacket' - that fit into the 'city/formal' spectrum, at least loosely, in that they fit this criteria: they are in traditional colors such as blues and navies (easily found) and greys (not as easily found, but not all that difficult either); they have limited, small scale pattern and texture so as to resolve to a solid except up close; they do not have aggressively casual details, although side patch pockets are IMO more than acceptable, and, perhaps optimal. These types of sport coats aren't as common as heavily patterned/countrified ones, so that's another limiting factor. Taking all that into consideration however, an OCBD can be right at home with non-blazer sport coats within the blue/grey spectrum.
Let's take the blazer and greys and see how far we can rusticate it into the 'country/casual' spectrum before it falls apart. The first step is, of course, removing the tie.
When you remove the tie you do several things: you instantly in-formalize the fit, most obviously, but you also remove some of the inherent barriers to a coherent look with a white shirt and odd jacket. For instance, you open up your collar choices in a different way: many prefer to go tie-less with various spreads and cutaways, but I personally think this (always) looks horrendous and a proper tie-less shirt should have a button down collar. Hence the thread title. Also in reference to the thread title, you open up your fabric/texture options, which do not necessarily have to be of an oxford weave; that said, broadcloths, royal oxfords, twills and even end-on-ends are rarely optimal for this look, whereas the oxford weave shines. For spring/summer, you have pinpoint oxford; for fall/winter, you have heavy oxford cloth. The texture of the fabric rusticates the look for you. I'm not ruling out other fabrics - linen blends provide the same function in summer, for instance, and probably better - but I think OC (oxford cloth, if you haven't picked it up by now; the BD is for button-down) is probably the simplest choice.
Collar proportions are up to you, but I prefer a tall banded, high collar with extremely stiff fused interlining. Softer rolls are great for an even more casual look, but when you're already limiting yourself to white, I think a tall stiff collar complements the balance you're trying to achieve, which is a rustication of a tie-less city look; that said, that really is a matter of preference, and I can very much understand an adherence to soft roll button down collars in this context as well. My preference is probably not to be recommended as optimal, but to be admitted in the spirit of transparency and to show that you do have options in how far you can take it.
Spring/summer examples: light grey cotton jacket, white shirt, mid-blue or even stone/tan (not too dark as to be khaki and invoke earth tones that can clash with the pure white) cotton or linen trousers and tan shoes/leathers - check. Lighter than navy (air force blue, and the like) blue linen jackets, light grey trousers or stone cotton/linen trousers, tan leathers - check. Vary the fabrics (always textured and casual - linen/wool, linen/silk, pure linen, cotton, blends of any of the above), weaves and color tones and basically anything within that spectrum works. Further, in the summer tan/cream linen comes into play, which, when chosen carefully so as to maintain contrast to the shirt, can look great with the white OCBD. This is the only time anything in the brown spectrum works well with pure white.
Fall/winter: any shade of dark blue or navy sportcoat that doesn't have aforementioned competing patterns or most certainly not ones with earth tones in the fabric. Add grey flannels, dark brown leathers, and you're good to go. Grey odd jackets are less common, but I own several, none of which would be mistaken for suit jackets - flannels, wool cashmeres, etc - and they can work very well here with the white shirt. Dark gray jacket = light gray trousers, and vice versa. If you're feeling adventurous, the dreaded navy odd trousers can look good with a light grey sport coat. More common are tweedy (or straight up tweed) jackets in greyed blues, or blued greys. These work just as well.
At this point you may be asking, why would I even want to wear a white OCBD as a regular go-to? Well, maybe you don't. If you do enjoy wearing them, as I do, the reasons are as follows: it can give off a nonchalance that is unparalleled by other shirts; maybe it flatters your skin tone (if not, get a tan and problem solved); it looks both exceedingly professional and casual at the same time, and, most importantly, is, in my mind, a perfect look for when you'd maybe, really like to wear a smart city suit and white shirt rig every day, but your work and social contexts demand you dial the whole ensemble back, but you still want to maintain that crisp effortless purity that the white shirt and only the white shirt is capable of presenting.
This pretty much demands a plain white linen square. As it is a casual version of the look, brown leathers are preferable, although I would go darker in the browns as the time of day and seasons progress, of course.
Oh, and it should go without saying that this also pretty much demands barrel cuffs. That said - all mine are double which I wear with white silk knots
This is intended as classic menswear discussion, but there is a streetwear element that was pointed out to me by another member and is worthy of note: the white shirt is almost crucial to many 'urban' fashions. Black on white, which of course those of the menswear persuasion will avoid, is a scheme used time and again in that realm; an example pointed out to me was Andy Warhol. I'll add one other example, from the menswear world, although strictly from the black city suit look: Tom Ford. Upon reflection, I suppose I could have titled this thread 'How to Rusticate the Tom Ford Look.' But let's not limit ourselves to that kind of thinking - this is about OCBD's, utilized in a different manner than the traditional.
First off, the reason this is about going tie-less (but never, ever without a jacket) is that, as has been demonstrated in the aforementioned Manton thread, a white shirt is of, and really can only be so far removed from the context of, the city/formal spectrum. I don't intend to rehash his OP in that thread, but a key point is that a white shirt outside of a suit really only works with a blazer and greys, preferably at night, and in the daytime is 'rarely optimal'. I still hold contention with the 'rarely optimal' bit, as I think context and preference has as lot to do with that - but that's another discussion that's been hashed out in that thread.
So then, since it does work: why? Well, pure white only looks at its best with blue and grey; this should be self-evident, and although white is at its absolute best at night, it still works in the day provided it doesn't wash you out completely (get a tan). Further, a blazer is often more optimal with white than odd jackets as the majority of odd jackets are of the 'country' spectrum that do not resolve to a solid up close. That said, there are many odd jackets - that are really more 'sportcoat' than 'odd jacket' - that fit into the 'city/formal' spectrum, at least loosely, in that they fit this criteria: they are in traditional colors such as blues and navies (easily found) and greys (not as easily found, but not all that difficult either); they have limited, small scale pattern and texture so as to resolve to a solid except up close; they do not have aggressively casual details, although side patch pockets are IMO more than acceptable, and, perhaps optimal. These types of sport coats aren't as common as heavily patterned/countrified ones, so that's another limiting factor. Taking all that into consideration however, an OCBD can be right at home with non-blazer sport coats within the blue/grey spectrum.
Let's take the blazer and greys and see how far we can rusticate it into the 'country/casual' spectrum before it falls apart. The first step is, of course, removing the tie.
When you remove the tie you do several things: you instantly in-formalize the fit, most obviously, but you also remove some of the inherent barriers to a coherent look with a white shirt and odd jacket. For instance, you open up your collar choices in a different way: many prefer to go tie-less with various spreads and cutaways, but I personally think this (always) looks horrendous and a proper tie-less shirt should have a button down collar. Hence the thread title. Also in reference to the thread title, you open up your fabric/texture options, which do not necessarily have to be of an oxford weave; that said, broadcloths, royal oxfords, twills and even end-on-ends are rarely optimal for this look, whereas the oxford weave shines. For spring/summer, you have pinpoint oxford; for fall/winter, you have heavy oxford cloth. The texture of the fabric rusticates the look for you. I'm not ruling out other fabrics - linen blends provide the same function in summer, for instance, and probably better - but I think OC (oxford cloth, if you haven't picked it up by now; the BD is for button-down) is probably the simplest choice.
Collar proportions are up to you, but I prefer a tall banded, high collar with extremely stiff fused interlining. Softer rolls are great for an even more casual look, but when you're already limiting yourself to white, I think a tall stiff collar complements the balance you're trying to achieve, which is a rustication of a tie-less city look; that said, that really is a matter of preference, and I can very much understand an adherence to soft roll button down collars in this context as well. My preference is probably not to be recommended as optimal, but to be admitted in the spirit of transparency and to show that you do have options in how far you can take it.
Spring/summer examples: light grey cotton jacket, white shirt, mid-blue or even stone/tan (not too dark as to be khaki and invoke earth tones that can clash with the pure white) cotton or linen trousers and tan shoes/leathers - check. Lighter than navy (air force blue, and the like) blue linen jackets, light grey trousers or stone cotton/linen trousers, tan leathers - check. Vary the fabrics (always textured and casual - linen/wool, linen/silk, pure linen, cotton, blends of any of the above), weaves and color tones and basically anything within that spectrum works. Further, in the summer tan/cream linen comes into play, which, when chosen carefully so as to maintain contrast to the shirt, can look great with the white OCBD. This is the only time anything in the brown spectrum works well with pure white.
Fall/winter: any shade of dark blue or navy sportcoat that doesn't have aforementioned competing patterns or most certainly not ones with earth tones in the fabric. Add grey flannels, dark brown leathers, and you're good to go. Grey odd jackets are less common, but I own several, none of which would be mistaken for suit jackets - flannels, wool cashmeres, etc - and they can work very well here with the white shirt. Dark gray jacket = light gray trousers, and vice versa. If you're feeling adventurous, the dreaded navy odd trousers can look good with a light grey sport coat. More common are tweedy (or straight up tweed) jackets in greyed blues, or blued greys. These work just as well.
At this point you may be asking, why would I even want to wear a white OCBD as a regular go-to? Well, maybe you don't. If you do enjoy wearing them, as I do, the reasons are as follows: it can give off a nonchalance that is unparalleled by other shirts; maybe it flatters your skin tone (if not, get a tan and problem solved); it looks both exceedingly professional and casual at the same time, and, most importantly, is, in my mind, a perfect look for when you'd maybe, really like to wear a smart city suit and white shirt rig every day, but your work and social contexts demand you dial the whole ensemble back, but you still want to maintain that crisp effortless purity that the white shirt and only the white shirt is capable of presenting.
This pretty much demands a plain white linen square. As it is a casual version of the look, brown leathers are preferable, although I would go darker in the browns as the time of day and seasons progress, of course.
Oh, and it should go without saying that this also pretty much demands barrel cuffs. That said - all mine are double which I wear with white silk knots
This is intended as classic menswear discussion, but there is a streetwear element that was pointed out to me by another member and is worthy of note: the white shirt is almost crucial to many 'urban' fashions. Black on white, which of course those of the menswear persuasion will avoid, is a scheme used time and again in that realm; an example pointed out to me was Andy Warhol. I'll add one other example, from the menswear world, although strictly from the black city suit look: Tom Ford. Upon reflection, I suppose I could have titled this thread 'How to Rusticate the Tom Ford Look.' But let's not limit ourselves to that kind of thinking - this is about OCBD's, utilized in a different manner than the traditional.
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