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How do you choose the silouette/lapels/pockets etc with your tailor?

lovelux2010

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hello,

i've searched the thread but cannot find a similar topic. basically, i am considering going to graham browne for a bespoke suit.

i know this will not go down well with most of SF, but i do like the style/fit/silouette of Prada suits (i'm 5'7 and 145 pounds, and on the younger side).

i am not confident enough in my ability to choose lapels/pockets/etc that will actually look good on a suit, so i'm wondering if its advisable to bring in a suit i like (lets say a prada) and essentially ask them to make that type of style..

thoughts?

alternatively i like a suit a chap had made by a singapore tailor recently, it is relatively slim cut but without looking silly

anyways, advice appreciated thanks!
 

Maccimus

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Take the chap's (gshen i guess) picture to the tailor.
 

Neumodo

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I don't see anything wrong with taking another suit and asking the tailor to replicate it according to what YOU want. After all, isn't that the point of custom-made?
 

J. Cogburn

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i'm wondering if its advisable to bring in a suit i like (lets say a prada) and essentially ask them to make that type of style..
I am planning a similar maneuver. I am in love with the look of Ralph Lauren's Black Label (RLBL for the uninitiated) suits and have recently bought three. I will wear one of those bad-boys to a meeting with the good people at W.W. Chan next year during their spring visit to Washington and have a summer suit made based on the RLBL's silhouette. Would like to adjust some things though - perhaps go with a three-button coat, for instance. But the main reason to go bespoke is to have a wider selection of fabrics to choose from and a better fit (even though, I must say, the RLBLs fit me very, very well). And ... to save some money. Chan charges around $1500 per suit for standard cloth. RLBL retails for $100-400 more and then another $200 or so if you go MtM.

Most tailors seem to encourage this sort of thing. Their websites frequently tell you to go to your first session with the best suit you have - the one you like best - so the tailor can get a sense for what you like.
 

taxgenius

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Originally Posted by lovelux2010
i am not confident enough in my ability to choose lapels/pockets/etc that will actually look good on a suit, so i'm wondering if its advisable to bring in a suit i like (lets say a prada) and essentially ask them to make that type of style..



I'm sure they will appreciate it as it doesn't require them to read your mind or risk misunderstanding your instructions,
 

lovelux2010

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Originally Posted by J. Cogburn
I am planning a similar maneuver. I am in love with the look of Ralph Lauren's Black Label (RLBL for the uninitiated) suits and have recently bought three. I will wear one of those bad-boys to a meeting with the good people at W.W. Chan next year during their spring visit to Washington and have a summer suit made based on the RLBL's silhouette. Would like to adjust some things though - perhaps go with a three-button coat, for instance. But the main reason to go bespoke is to have a wider selection of fabrics to choose from and a better fit (even though, I must say, the RLBLs fit me very, very well). And ... to save some money. Chan charges around $1500 per suit for standard cloth. RLBL retails for $100-400 more and then another $200 or so if you go MtM.

Most tailors seem to encourage this sort of thing. Their websites frequently tell you to go to your first session with the best suit you have - the one you like best - so the tailor can get a sense for what you like.



ok, perfect! i was worried about taking the tailor out of their comfort zone and ending up with an "off" looking product..
ultimately i'm hoping to achieve a better fit in the silouette of my favorite prada suit..
 

J. Cogburn

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Just do a bit of homework to make sure what you want isn't too far away from what the tailor's house style might be. For instance, the RLBL suits have a fairly padded shoulder. I wouldn't go to Anderson & Sheppard for a bespoke clone given that A&S is all about soft shoulder, light structure, and drape.

By the way, I discovered this afternoon that my guess regarding RLBL MtM prices was a bit optimistic. It's about $2,100 or so for the most basic cloth. Anything beyond plain worsted will bring you over $3,000. Get fancy and it's $4,000+.

Yeah, Chan ....
 

patrickBOOTH

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Why don't you just get a Prada suit? I am sure they have a MTM service. Or go to Ozwald Boateng.
 

Svenn

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Originally Posted by Neumodo
I don't see anything wrong with taking another suit and asking the tailor to replicate it according to what YOU want. After all, isn't that the point of custom-made?

Yes it is the point, but unfortunately a lot of bespoke tailors resent being told what to do. It is a common trait among professionals with a specialty skill dealing with ignorant clients... though frankly it makes a lot more sense for a doctor or lawyer to ignore the client, than a personal stylist like a tailor.
 

lovelux2010

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Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
Why don't you just get a Prada suit? I am sure they have a MTM service. Or go to Ozwald Boateng.

well thats my internal debate..
if i knew that bespoke could nail the look i'm after at £1k i'd do it in a heartbeat..
but i'm worried i come out with something average that will just end up at oxfam..

at least if i go to prada direct i know what i'm buying.

as far as MTM..i doubt they could improve on much soi'd rather just get OTR if i bought prada
 

patrickBOOTH

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I say just buy from Prada. It sounds like it is what you want. If they fit you well, simple alterations should suit you fine, (pun intended). Bespoke is a whole different animal than just what something looks like on the surface. It is not only about fit because that is going to be subjective to the tailor, and yourself. It is about having control over tidbits of construction, handwork, knowing what you are getting as far as fabrics getting exactly what you want and not a designer. Generally if you are going bespoke you should have defined framework, and trust the tailor to push or pull you in ways that are surprising within your own personal style. Also, a love for tailoring, and the process makes it all worthwhile over just getting fit correct, because most people won't have too much trouble finding things that fit "good enough" or better than what most people walk about in.
 

lovelux2010

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hello...

i went to harrods and tried on a prada suit again. it had been a while since i tried it on, but after studying SF for the past few weeks, i no longer feel its a good enough fit. the shoulder on a 38/48 look good, but i can barely do up the jacket (sounds strange but my ribs come out very far) - have this same problem with all OTR..

so, i'm thinking to try graham browne or similar bespoke. given that i'm 5'7 and 145 pounds (short/relatively slim) i want to work with the tailor on a suit that will flatter my frame..
so far i'm thinking:
- low rise trousers and slim trousers, no pleats
- solid dark navy or charcoal grey
- show cuff
- peak lapels (read somewhere this good for a shorter frame not sure if true)
- slimmish lapels (also read this is good for a shorter frame again not sure if true)
- i also read lowering pockets and giving height to top pocket can make you look taller, not sure if true..
- 2 button
- short fitting, of course...jacket relatively cropped and lined up with bottom of crotch on trousers

i'm sure i'm missing tons of details, any tips would be much appreciated and i'd be happy to post my experience in the GB or similar thread
 

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