hand stitching vs machine stitching?

[james48]

Regarding a custom suit lapels - Anybody have a pic of the 2 to compare? I cant seem to find what exactly the difference is (besides the obvious hand vs machine), and which one is better and why? Or is it simply for looks? Also, is it possible to add hand stitching to a suit that does not have it? Thanks

 

[lee_44106]

Adding handstitiching to a machine made suit= why bother, it's like putting the Mercedes emblem or the Rolls Royce lady emblem on a Yugo, who the hell are you trying to impress?

Hand-stitiched lapel supposedly gives it a nice roll, fits the body better....etc...etc

 

[Carey]

Do you really mean pick stitching? If the lapels have no edge stitching - a bluffed edge, a tailor can pick-stitch them. However, it is always best to follow the advice of the tailor who will do the work. I have had mine tell me not to make this change to a Hickey-Freeman birdseye I bought a few years ago.

 

[a tailor]

a bluffed edge garment garment should be left as is. edge stitching should be done during the original construction.
machine or hand stitching is a matter of styling.
the best hand stitched edge is the kind that is almost invisible.

 

[globetrotter]

ok, another similar question -

I was talking to a new tailor today, and he offered to do a suit with all hand stitching. honestly, I never really thought about that - the suits I have now were made by machine, but made for my measurements, with my fabric and with the details I wanted. I was happy with that. now I am wondering if it is worth the extra to go for complete hand stitching. also, he offered a hybrid - what parts of the suit really make a difference if hand stitched ?

thanks

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Some people claim that hand stitched shoulder seams are more elastic. It has been sorta debunked by a very well respected tailor. Your tailor probably just wants money. Check this out below:

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/...wn%20shoulders

 

[bengal-stripe]

Originally Posted by james48

Regarding a custom suit lapels - Anybody have a pic of the 2 to compare? I cant seem to find what exactly the difference is (besides the obvious hand vs machine), and which one is better and why?

Are you talking about the pad-stitching (inside the lapel) or the pick-stitching (engl. 'prick-stitching') going around the outside?

 

[greger]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

Some people claim that hand stitched shoulder seams are more elastic. It has been sorta debunked by a very well respected tailor. Your tailor probably just wants money. Check this out below:

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/...wn%20shoulders

It really hasn't been debunked at all. One very fine tailor doesn't know it all. If you were to pull some of the tailors from the grave they could teach him a thing or two that he has never learned. The sewing machine is so quick that some tailors decided that was good enough. Sewing machines are better than in the past, at least some new inventions. As some tailors said from the past is that the two methods produce a different feel from each other, and the feel from the hand sewn coat maybe worth it to you. If you notice no difference, then why pay extra? From one tailor to another this could be different. Of course a hand laid stitch is one that can be controlled different than the one before and after. What is being sewn matters too.

The seam takes stress. But how does it take stress? Lengthwise? What about crosswise or angled? Jeffery answered some questions. But, did he ask all the questions and get answers? Nope!

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by globetrotter

ok, another similar question -

I was talking to a new tailor today, and he offered to do a suit with all hand stitching. honestly, I never really thought about that - the suits I have now were made by machine, but made for my measurements, with my fabric and with the details I wanted. I was happy with that. now I am wondering if it is worth the extra to go for complete hand stitching. also, he offered a hybrid - what parts of the suit really make a difference if hand stitched ?

thanks

I would get the shoulders, lapel and collar hand-stitched.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

I would get the shoulders, lapel and collar hand-stitched.

Ditto.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Originally Posted by greger

It really hasn't been debunked at all. One very fine tailor doesn't know it all. If you were to pull some of the tailors from the grave they could teach him a thing or two that he has never learned. The sewing machine is so quick that some tailors decided that was good enough. Sewing machines are better than in the past, at least some new inventions. As some tailors said from the past is that the two methods produce a different feel from each other, and the feel from the hand sewn coat maybe worth it to you. If you notice no difference, then why pay extra? From one tailor to another this could be different. Of course a hand laid stitch is one that can be controlled different than the one before and after. What is being sewn matters too.

The seam takes stress. But how does it take stress? Lengthwise? What about crosswise or angled? Jeffery answered some questions. But, did he ask all the questions and get answers? Nope!

I like I said, "sorta". I am not making any conclusions, especially since I don't own any suits with hand stitched shoulders.