Ezra Paul - DC?

[othertravel]

Brand new, 7/8oz Reda wool, half lined. Really nailed the fit on the first try. Plus Ezra is a great guy to just shoot the **** with for an hour or two!
View attachment 1195698
(the spot on the upper left is a reflection from my window, not a spot on the fabric)

Very nice. Is that MTM, or off the rack?

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Very nice. Is that MTM, or off the rack?

MTM.
One thing I've realized from my mtm experiences is that so many places try to reinvent the wheel by taking like a million measurements then adjusting the pattern from the numbers. I think they all think it looks really impressive to have someone go around your body with tailor's tape and spend 20 minutes measuring your inseam. But it creates so much room for error compared to working off an existing otr model (which is what Ezra does to great effect).

 

[othertravel]

MTM.
One thing I've realized from my mtm experiences is that so many places try to reinvent the wheel by taking like a million measurements then adjusting the pattern from the numbers. I think they all think it looks really impressive to have someone go around your body with tailor's tape and spend 20 minutes measuring your inseam. But it creates so much room for error compared to working off an existing otr model (which is what Ezra does to great effect).

I like Ezra's philosophy on tailoring. It'd be great to see more of his posts on here.

Can you also post a pic of the tag inside the inner jacket pocket? Curious to see who makes his suits.

 

[EzraPaul]

MTM.
One thing I've realized from my mtm experiences is that so many places try to reinvent the wheel by taking like a million measurements then adjusting the pattern from the numbers. I think they all think it looks really impressive to have someone go around your body with tailor's tape and spend 20 minutes measuring your inseam. But it creates so much room for error compared to working off an existing otr model (which is what Ezra does to great effect).

Thanks for posting and wearing it so well!

I agree that places that brag about the number of measurement they take are overly focused on pomp over substance. I haven't ever taken the time to add up all of the different adjustments that can be made, as that seems like it's besides the point. Occasionally people ask me how many measurements I take, and I immediately know they require some deprogramming. Same with guys that come in and ask if we carry "VBC", all that tells me is that you shop at suit supply (who for some reason really push Barberis fabric in particular)

To extrapolate on the fitting process, we essentially use try-on suits as measurement tools. Basic measurements like chest, waist, hip are easily taken with skin measurements, but having a try-on garment really helps illuminate adjustments like sleeve rotation, armhole depth, drape, etc and also allows for a conversation about the client's personal preferences with regard to fit. It's akin to how a true bespoke process starts with a basted try-on suit and then pins and marks to hone in on the fit, but we skip the first step of making a dummy suit out of muslin, thus saving time and money. For 99% of men this works well.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Can you also post a pic of the tag inside the inner jacket pocket? Curious to see who makes his suits.

Not sure if this has the info you're looking for (I just blacked out my last name).

 

[EzraPaul]

I like Ezra's philosophy on tailoring. It'd be great to see more of his posts on here.

Can you also post a pic of the tag inside the inner jacket pocket? Curious to see who makes his suits.

We only carry private label, so no labels other than EP . Suits, sport coats, trousers, waistcoats, and outerwear are made in a small family owned factory in Italy. I believe I am their only North American client. I formerly used Greenfield and Ciccarelli before jumping across the pond. I've been working with them for the last 6+ years and have found them much easier to work with than their American counterparts.

We still make shirts in the USA, but just started making sport shirts in Italy, which will arrive next week. Using Monti, Testa, Canclini, Albini, Zegna, and Mason for those.

Neckwear is made in Como.

Shoes are goodyear welted in Spain, primarily with du Puy leather.

All of which is private label (or stamp), sorry!

 

[othertravel]

Not sure if this has the info you're looking for (I just blacked out my last name).
View attachment 1195767

Thanks for posting! Don’t recognize the tag, but either way, the suit looks great.

 

[othertravel]

We only carry private label, so no labels other than EP . Suits, sport coats, trousers, waistcoats, and outerwear are made in a small family owned factory in Italy. I believe I am their only North American client. I formerly used Greenfield and Ciccarelli before jumping across the pond. I've been working with them for the last 6+ years and have found them much easier to work with than their American counterparts.

We still make shirts in the USA, but just started making sport shirts in Italy, which will arrive next week. Using Monti, Testa, Canclini, Albini, Zegna, and Mason for those.

Neckwear is made in Como.

Shoes are goodyear welted in Spain, primarily with du Puy leather.

All of which is private label (or stamp), sorry!

Understand the need to protect trade secrets!

I like your explanation on MTM. But do you do MTO as well? For example, ordering a stock model but with a fabric you don’t carry off the rack but is available in one of your books?

And thanks for responding to my email!

 

[EzraPaul]

Understand the need to protect trade secrets!

I like your explanation on MTM. But do you do MTO as well? For example, ordering a stock model but with a fabric you don’t carry off the rack but is available in one of your books?

And thanks for responding to my email!

It's partly to protect trade secrets and partly Rumpelstiltskin syndrome - I get unwarranted joy out of people trying and failing to guess where they're made.

Yes, I can also do MTO, of which you have described the differences perfectly. I don't do it often (though I did one this week) because I try not to jack up the price of MTM. Apples to apples MTM adds $200 vs stock sizing, so for most people it's worth it for the improved fit.

 

[smittycl]

Hey, @EzraPaul

I'm looking at Die Workwear's summer tweed re-issue. How much fabric would you need for a sportcoat in 42-44L? thinking single-breasted, dual rear vents, patch pocket, welted chest pocket (I don't like chest patch pockets).

The Minnis Fresco we just did is bit stiffer fabric and fits close. Would want this one a bit looser and more summery and casual. Getting lots of use out of the fresco, BTW. Perfect combination of summer fabric yet formal look.

What do you think? 3m enough?

Summer Tweed and Slubby Oxford — Die, Workwear!

A couple of years ago, after having no success trying to find raw silk jacketing, I organized a custom-run of linen-silk fabric modeled after Taka’s jacket pictured above. The cloth mimics the slubby texture of raw silk jacketings from yesteryear — which are impossible to find today outside of...

dieworkwear.com

 

[EzraPaul]

Hey, @EzraPaul

I'm looking at Die Workwear's summer tweed re-issue. How much fabric would you need for a sportcoat in 42-44L? thinking single-breasted, dual rear vents, patch pocket, welted chest pocket (I don't like chest patch pockets).

The Minnis Fresco we just did is bit stiffer fabric and fits close. Would want this one a bit looser and more summery and casual. Getting lots of use out of the fresco, BTW. Perfect combination of summer fabric yet formal look.

What do you think? 3m enough?

Summer Tweed and Slubby Oxford — Die, Workwear!

A couple of years ago, after having no success trying to find raw silk jacketing, I organized a custom-run of linen-silk fabric modeled after Taka’s jacket pictured above. The cloth mimics the slubby texture of raw silk jacketings from yesteryear — which are impossible to find today outside of...

dieworkwear.com

Glad to hear you’re enjoying the fresco! 2.25 meters is sufficient. I’m by appointment through Labor Day and back to regular hours after that, so let me know if you want to swing by.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

My second suit from Ezra.

The deets:
Reda brown-gray Prince of Wales check
Full canvas
2-button (5 on the waistcoat)
3.5" notch lapel
Double vent, full cupro lining
Flap pockets w/ ticket
Single reverse pleat
7.25" hem width, 1.75" cuff

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Third commission from Ezra: a classic navy hopsack jacket (from an Italian mill whose name I can't remember).

 

[EzraPaul]

Third commission from Ezra: a classic navy hopsack jacket (from an Italian mill whose name I can't remember).
View attachment 1476380

Wearing it well my friend! 3-roll-2, fabric is from the aptly named "Italian Textile Biella", a small mill in Biella.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Wearing it well my friend! 3-roll-2, fabric is from the aptly named "Italian Textile Biella", a small mill in Biella.

Not as obvious a brand name as "Brandini" but it'll do!