Cut of odd trousers?

[josepidal]

Okay, I've returned from vacation, prepared my lesson plans and research agendas, and am getting into the groove of handling a couple of basic classes. I haven't been satisfied with wearing khakis daily, though, and want to get some wool slacks made. I just had a couple of questions.

First, how does the cut of good tailored odd trousers differ from suit trousers? I always thought suit trousers were cut higher and have to be a bit looser, and that one should not use one's suit trousers as a "model" if having odd trousers made by a cheaper tailor.

Second, assuming one decides to wear wool odd trousers daily, how many does one need to achieve a minimum rotation? Three? Five?

 

[Taxler]

For me, the difference is in the fabric, details, and construction- not the fit or cut. Odd trousers can be made of less refined fabrics with more texture, color, and pattern in the weave, have more obvious stitching, and offer more variety in pocket styles.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Originally Posted by josepidal

Okay, I've returned from vacation, prepared my lesson plans and research agendas, and am getting into the groove of handling a couple of basic classes. I haven't been satisfied with wearing khakis daily, though, and want to get some wool slacks made. I just had a couple of questions.

First, how does the cut of good tailored odd trousers differ from suit trousers? I always thought suit trousers were cut higher and have to be a bit looser, and that one should not use one's suit trousers as a "model" if having odd trousers made by a cheaper tailor.

Second, assuming one decides to wear wool odd trousers daily, how many does one need to achieve a minimum rotation? Three? Five?
One would achieve one's basic rotation with the same number of wool pants as one had of khakis. If one were worried about one's rotation, one could say, for instance, that one's pants should rest one day or one plus one days or one plus one plus one days and there by deduce the number needed.

While one's odd trousers are usually cut lower, at the end of the day, one should get the pants cut in whichever manner will make one most comfortable.

 

[nmoraitis]

Originally Posted by Taxler

For me, the difference is in the fabric, details, and construction- not the fit or cut. Odd trousers can be made of less refined fabrics with more texture, color, and pattern in the weave, have more obvious stitching, and offer more variety in pocket styles.


I would think that the fit and cut would be much more important in an odd trouser than suit trousers, because there is no jacket to cover up the top portion of the pants. Fit and cut need to be right on so as not to detract from the overall look of the trousers.

 

[Connemara]

Originally Posted by Cantabrigian

One would achieve one's basic rotation with the same number of wool pants as one had of khakis. If one were worried about one's rotation, one could say, for instance, that one's pants should rest one day or one plus one days or one plus one plus one days and there by deduce the number needed.

While one's odd trousers are usually cut lower, at the end of the day, one should get the pants cut in whichever manner will make one most comfortable.

Thank you for giving me a headache.

 

[jkennett]

Odd trousers from my experience are normally worn with a belt, thus they aren't cut as loose as traditional suit trousers which are intended to hang from suspenders. That's my thought anyways.

 

[GBR]

Clearly what is critical for you is comfort and style which YOU like not any old rules.

However one would expect them to be cut lower for a belt and maybe have a zip fly (optional).

Depending on the pockets you have in a suit you may elect to have two back pockets (button through please!) given that you may well not have a jacket with you.

they may well be looser and I would agree that you should not use suit trousers as a model at all. As to how many up to you but 3/4 would feel about right if you wear suits at other times. Given they could be a cheaper cloth you may prefer to have a higher turnover of them given that 2/3 expense of a bespoke suit is in the coat.

 

[Taxler]

Originally Posted by nmoraitis

I would think that the fit and cut would be much more important in an odd trouser than suit trousers, because there is no jacket to cover up the top portion of the pants. Fit and cut need to be right on so as not to detract from the overall look of the trousers.

I see no reason for suit trousers not to fit correctly at the top just because they're covered up. It's as much about comfort as appearance.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Originally Posted by Connemara

Thank you for giving me a headache.
Don't blame me, I didn't start it.

Personally, I also prefer odd trousers to be flat-fronted while I like suit pants with single reverse or double forward pleats.

 

[Manton]

There is no inherent difference. If you go to tailor and get several suits, and then order an odd trouser, he is going to cut those just like he cut your suit trousers unless you specify otherwise.

Personally, I prefer my suit trousers to be cut high with brace tops. The exception is summer suits, which I get cut a tad lower (though still not to the hips) and for belts. I get odd trousers the same way I get summer suit trousers.

 

[nmoraitis]

Originally Posted by Taxler

I see no reason for suit trousers not to fit correctly at the top just because they're covered up. It's as much about comfort as appearance.


I did not say they should not fit correctly.

 

[josepidal]

Thanks for all the answers. Fabric and pocket detailing aside, I think this thread has articulated my tastes perfectly. I prefer suit trousers to be higher and cut looser for wear with braces, and prefer odd trousers to be a little lower, less loose, and for wear with belts.

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by Manton

There is no inherent difference. If you go to tailor and get several suits, and then order an odd trouser, he is going to cut those just like he cut your suit trousers unless you specify otherwise.

Personally, I prefer my suit trousers to be cut high with brace tops. The exception is summer suits, which I get cut a tad lower (though still not to the hips) and for belts. I get odd trousers the same way I get summer suit trousers.

Manton, I hate that avatar.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by grimslade

Manton, I hate that avatar.

Professional jealousy?

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by Manton

Professional jealousy?

On the contrary. He's not worthy. And besides, he looks like a tax accountant. And today he praised Hillary's health-care plan and claimed that the Republican proposals were "non-existent."