Custom Suit Fitting/advice - Help!!!

[tony19]

Ok guys - need your help. I have a custom tailor who has just recently broken my spirits. I'd like to think I have an eye for details and understand what a good fitting suit should look like. However, this tailor is trying to sway my judgement.

This is my first custom suit experience. I just got my suit back for my first fitting and to my discontent it was too baggy and did not fit as well as I liked. I described to the tailor that I wanted the newer slim look that everyone is going for and that i've always appreciated but did not want to jeopordize the integrety of the suit's fit etc. I thought I laid it out pretty clear.....slim legs, arms, higher lapels, SHOWING CUFF, very slight break etc.

I am looking for a traditional classic look but with a slight edge (slimmer). Again, I am looking for something in between here...not too extreme but definitely don't want to look like an old senator on Capital Hill if you can follow me. I am 27 years old and in the real estate industry, not in the advertising world or fashion world so I can't get too crazy. I felt that this attached picture was perfect and it is more conservative than most slim suits out there today and a good in between compromise between modern and classic.

Long story short I sent him this attached picture and he claimed I am too "trendy" compared to the clients he typically works with. In my eyes I thought this was perfectly modern but not too extreme at all. Does anyone agree with me here??? Is he just trying to save money and not fix it?? I was a little insulted too actually. I mean isn't the whole point to a custom suit for it to be "custom". I understand he is putting his name on it but come on it's not like im asking him to make me something crazy here. Anyone got any suggestions??? Am I in the wrong here? I already paid half of my deposit.... Any help is much appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

[GBR]

The style is your choice, he can proffer advice but equally you can reject it.

What he is really saying is that he has grown accustomed to palming his clients off with one style that he has forgotten (or does not want to) how to do something else.

Pressure him and go somewhere else in future. It is your money.

 

[tony19]

Originally Posted by GBR

The style is your choice, he can proffer advice but equally you can reject it.

What he is really saying is that he has grown accustomed to palming his clients off with one style that he has forgotten (or does not want to) how to do something else.

Pressure him and go somewhere else in future. It is your money.

Yeah that is what I figured. I really appreciate the advice. He tried to make me feel guilty about the whole thing....

Am I off base here to think this suit is NOT that trendy??

 

[kdaust]

I've saved that pic off sartorialist as well...

I think your tailor is going to be looking at that photo and seeing more than just the suit details though. He'll see - trendy guy, knit tie, brown shoes, 'manscaped' facial hair etc.

I think you need to focus his attention on the details of that suit you want to achieve.

Keep it simple to understand... eg. tapered legs with little or no break; fitted waist on the jacket, soft shoulders (i.e. not the roped style).

If he still doesn't want to come to the party then ask for your money back and go somewhere that will.

 

[mmhollis]

I agree its your money...gentleman the definition of a break is?

 

[texas_jack]

The fit of that suit is extreem and hence quite trendy but that's not the point. If you want something then you should get it.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by tony19

I mean isn't the whole point to a custom suit for it to be "custom".

How did you choose this tailor? Was it because you saw what he produced for others, and then you decided what he produced looked great, made the wearers look great, and was in the style that you wanted for yourself?

If not, then you skipped an important step.

It sounds like you're American. If so, the odds that you are seeing someone who cuts their own pattern from scratch are very low. It is more likely that you are working with someone who modifies a block pattern...and the chances are also significant that you are basically dealing with a made-to-measure operation. In either case, there is only so much pattern manipulation that is possible.

At any rate, if the tailor's basic style is not to your liking, your best course is to cut your losses and find someone who produces the style that you seek. Judging by the photograph that you posted, you actually might be better off with an off-the-rack suit from RL Black Label or an Italian producer, and then having that altered well. I am unware of any American bespoke tailor who produces that look as their natural style.

- B

 

[trailer36]

it sounds like you just picked a tailor that cant do exactly what you want. I wish that old knight from "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade" was around. If he was, he would definitely say, "you chose....... poorly."

 

[bbaquiran]

Out of (morbid) curiosity, how much was the tailor charging and your deposit?

 

[Despos]

Do you have the same build and proportion as the gentleman in the picture?

Was the suit finished on your first try-on or basted together?

Do you know if you are getting MTM, or true custom, made by an individual tailor?

 

[yfyf]

Originally Posted by Despos

Do you have the same build and proportion as the gentleman in the picture?
+1

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

How did you choose this tailor? Was it because you saw what he produced for others, and then you decided what he produced looked great, made the wearers look great, and was in the style that you wanted for yourself?
+1

 

[tony19]

Originally Posted by kdaust

I've saved that pic off sartorialist as well...

I think your tailor is going to be looking at that photo and seeing more than just the suit details though. He'll see - trendy guy, knit tie, brown shoes, 'manscaped' facial hair etc.

I think you need to focus his attention on the details of that suit you want to achieve.

Keep it simple to understand... eg. tapered legs with little or no break; fitted waist on the jacket, soft shoulders (i.e. not the roped style).

If he still doesn't want to come to the party then ask for your money back and go somewhere that will.

LOL. nice. I love that line "come to the party". Thanks for the advice. I will not only use the advice but I may steal that line if thats ok with you.

 

[tony19]

Originally Posted by trailer36

it sounds like you just picked a tailor that cant do exactly what you want. I wish that old knight from "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade" was around. If he was, he would definitely say, "you chose....... poorly."

LOL.

 

[tony19]

Originally Posted by Despos

Do you have the same build and proportion as the gentleman in the picture?

Was the suit finished on your first try-on or basted together?

Do you know if you are getting MTM, or true custom, made by an individual tailor?

Not really. I am athletic but I am shorter than this man. I still feel I could get the same cut.

 

[kdaust]

Originally Posted by tony19

LOL. nice. I love that line "come to the party". Thanks for the advice. I will not only use the advice but I may steal that line if thats ok with you.


No probs. Didn't know it was a unique expression, but maybe its one of those aussie-isms like "no worries" or "damn skippy".