C&J vs Bonafe

[carve]

Which one would you choose ?
C&J balfour antique tan
https://www.crockettandjones.com/balfour-tan. (Still avaible)

or bonafe derby

Enzo Bonafé Derby

The Enzo Bonafé Skin Stitch Derby in Vitello Bolet. This is also a special model with a hand-stitched apron created by Enzo Bonafé for Skoaktiebolaget exclusively. Style 3964 on the 363MOD last. Leather sole. Bolet Calf. Hand welted in Bologna, Italy. For an extensive reference comparison chart...

www.skoaktiebolaget.com

What are your thoughts in quality, patina development, value for money etc
Bonafe is 625 EUR and c&j 745 pounds

 

[UNOAIMX]

If you are thinking of reselling it somewhere down the road, Crockett and Jones gets sold off much quicker / retains more value possible, when you list it on Ebay (from personal anecdotal experience selling 10 + pairs of Bonafes and C&J etc.).

 

[carve]

Im thinking about as a shoe you buy and keep till it cant be re-welted anymore and you discard it

 

[carve]

Basically which is the Better shoe?

 

[djdanniedee]

I have the EB split toe so can only speak on that. One thing to know is that the apron is not a pie crust stitch and the split toe is a faux split toe. What that means is the leather at the toe is not 2 pieces stitched together but one piece. It is stitched like a reverse skin stitch, so it's stitched through half the leather (like a EG dover) but there's not actual split at the toe.

I would say EB provides you the better value with a handwelted shoes over the CJ, which is GYW. The EB is on the 363 MOD last which is a classic round toe.

 

[carve]

I have the EB split toe so can only speak on that. One thing to know is that the apron is not a pie crust stitch and the split toe is a faux split toe. What that means is the leather at the toe is not 2 pieces stitched together but one piece. It is stitched like a reverse skin stitch, so it's stitched through half the leather (like a EG dover) but there's not actual split at the toe.

I would say EB provides you the better value with a handwelted shoes over the CJ, which is GYW. The EB is on the 363 MOD last which is a classic round toe.

What about sizing compared to c&j do you own both? What size should i go for?

 

[WilYa]

EB 100%

 

[djdanniedee]

Unfortunately i don't own any CJs. I did try some when leatherfoot had their selloff, i did find overall i was a 8.5 over a few pairs they had, penny loafer, wholecut and wingtip but can't speak on which last they were.
EB i find the 8.5 pretty generous but i've stuck with 9UK. They have a high instep and quite roomy in the ball to toes. I'm currently wearing an EB penny loafer in 363MOD and the heel is snug, not loose like say, a carmina Rain last.

 

[carve]

So basically i should try my usual size

 

[Braid]

Which one would you choose ?
C&J balfour antique tan
https://www.crockettandjones.com/balfour-tan. (Still avaible)

or bonafe derby

Enzo Bonafé Derby

The Enzo Bonafé Skin Stitch Derby in Vitello Bolet. This is also a special model with a hand-stitched apron created by Enzo Bonafé for Skoaktiebolaget exclusively. Style 3964 on the 363MOD last. Leather sole. Bolet Calf. Hand welted in Bologna, Italy. For an extensive reference comparison chart...

www.skoaktiebolaget.com

What are your thoughts in quality, patina development, value for money etc
Bonafe is 625 EUR and c&j 745 pounds

Not a fan of the Balfour last, I would consider the hardwick instead. I own the suede variant (available also in grain) and find them amazing (and are also cheaper than balfour)

Hardwick Dark Brown Pebble Grain

Hardwick, an apron fronted, split toe derby shoe made from the finest dark brown pebble grain calf with our 'City' rubber sole. From the Men's Main Collection.

www.crockettandjones.com

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I have both the C&J Lonsdale (363 Last), and a EB 363 (boot). I realize that they are different shoes, but I own other shoes from each maker on different lasts.
The Enzo Bonafe feels a sturdier shoe. I believe this has to do with the level of arch support and construction (handwelt). I actually would give the leather nod to the C&J, only in that the leather is more supple.

Based on construction alone, the EB is a better shoe, and should outlast the C&J. Honestly though, you will have to resole both and both would probably give you 3 to 5 years before a recraft is even necessary (YMMV).

Were it my money, I would go with the EB on the grounds of construction, price, and it is slightly more sleek. This minor stylistic difference, has to do with the toe, means you can dress it up a bit more. The Balfour looks ever so bulbous compared to the EB.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

So basically i should try my usual size

Yes! If possible, try them both on and wear the trouser/chinos you intend on wearing them with. Provides you more insight and concrete evidence of what they look like on you (as opposed to Instagram or the standard model pictures).

 

[carve]

Yes! If possible, try them both on and wear the trouser/chinos you intend on wearing them with. Provides you more insight and concrete evidence of what they look like on you (as opposed to Instagram or the standard model pictures).

Unfortunately either one is to be ordered but returns are possible. Im 7.5 in Crockett connaught and Ashdown and some church

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Unfortunately either one is to be ordered but returns are possible. Im 7.5 in Crockett connaught and Ashdown and some church

The EB 804 fits me the best. It is a bit longer than the 363M or 363 Boot. The C&J 363 is my best fitting last due to my thinner heels.

I would say both 363s are fairly comparable in regards to size. You should be able to order both in the same size without experiencing noticeable differences.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Here you can see how close these really are from an overhead prospective. Left is EB363M, right C&J363. The only challenge is envisioning that EB boot in a dress shoe.