Building a wardrobe of cheaper, generic brands, because you can, and want to.

[jjgold]

Originally Posted by stickonatree

it's funny that people are so willing to spend top money for clothing, but half the world lives in poverty.


I don't really understand this statement either. Yes half the world lives in poverty. So what are you implying? It is against some sort of unwritten moral code to not buy anything nice because half the world lives in poverty? Many folks have made sacrifices to position themselves to afford some small pleasures. I buy what looks best and fits best and will last the longest. Oh and I give money to several charities and do quite a bit of philanthropic events to help those poverty victims.

 

[The False Prophet]

Just for the record, RMs are perceived in a very different way in Australia to the rest of the world. Far from being a luxury look, they are either intensely utilitarian (worn by actual farmers and horseriders), or by businesspeople trying to affect a certain "earthiness" which is kind of annoying. Not quite cowboy boots with suit, but not markedly better....

 

[Lucky Strike]

Old, a bit obvious to many here, but very true advice: [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]If you don't have a lot of money to spend on clothing but your tastes and preferences run towards the expensive, you may not be completely out of luck. Loads of time, if properly spent, can begin to substitute for money. You need time for reading, time for learning, time for shopping. Patience will be helpful, too"”for the right clothing to come your way at the right price.[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I have three suggestions if you don't have a lot of money but want good clothes. Take them in this order, and take only as many as you need.[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]ONE. Buy fewer clothes. Get over the idea that you must have one of everything, and that it all must be current. By replacing binges at the local department store with a few well-planned purchases of fine quality and near-timeless taste, you'll have a sparse closet with a few perfect items and enough variety to last a good many years.[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]TWO. Shop sales at finer stores. Most department stores have good season-end sales and frequently at 50% off. If you want guidance for your sale purchases, befriend a salesperson beforehand to discuss your needs and limits. Be upfront with them and they should do likewise. (Some salespeople won't want anything to do with you and they'll make it clear. It is rude, yes, but move on. Someone in the store would like to deal with you; find them.) A better salesperson will work within the limits you impose, financial or stylistic or otherwise, and sometimes will give you advance notice of sales or special promotions.[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]THREE. If the sale prices still aren't low enough for you, and you have much more time than money, and"”most importantly!"”you can judge quality and fit very well on your own, shop bargain basement stores. Filene's Basement, Marshall's, T.J. Maxx, Syms, and Century 21 (in Manhattan) often have rare finds. (Please avoid, however, online discount stores like Bluefly or eBay. The feel of the fabric is so important, the fit even more so, and you can't judge either through poor internet images.) It it to your advantage to tread lightly but often in these stores. New stock arrives at least weekly and the best is scooped up quickly. Shirts, ties, knits, and shoes can be great finds, but think twice before buying tailored clothing: do you know a topnotch tailor to fit it?"”and how much will that cost? Finally, don't get carried away by the prices: an ugly $130 Zegna tie for $30 is still an ugly tie, but a tad worse: you'll be proud of it.[/FONT]

From this blog. No connection to me.[/FONT]

 

[AlanC]

^Of course, one can do very well on ebay, although it does increase risk. Accessories, particularly, can be bought successfully on ebay, and I would go so far as to say that there is no better place to buy cufflinks, for example.

There is also thrift. Just read through the thrift bragging thread to get an idea.

 

[javyn]

I go low-end, high quantity; suits are from MW (gasp!) or KG. Shirts and shirt/tie combos are usually bought from ebay in lots. I've had both good and bad luck with that. True the quality on the shirts isn't great, and some are completely worthless, but most of them I am very happy with. I just wear regular cheap black oxford dress shoes (don't have the complexion or confidence to wear brown).

I only get compliments on my wardrobe, even from the older folks at my firm who describe me as "snappy". Younger people tend to use the word "intimidating" when describing my look. Overall I'm very happy with that affect.

Perhaps after law school, I'll go for higher end name brands, but for now as a lowly paralegal, I think I'm doing quite well.

Speaking of suits....I want another one but have no idea what to get. I have a navy pin, black, and darkish grey (not charcoal). Any recommendations for a color for another one? I have blue eyes, black hair, and am extremely pale. I tend to favor pastel shirts and vertical stripes (because I'm short).

PS - No the avatar pic is not me.

 

[strazzaque]

Originally Posted by javyn

I go low-end, high quantity; suits are from MW (gasp!) or KG. Shirts and shirt/tie combos are usually bought from ebay in lots. I've had both good and bad luck with that. True the quality on the shirts isn't great....

I'm a devoted eBayer myself, and like you, prefer low-price, high quantity. Instead of lots however, I like to get multiple shirts (2+) from a single seller where possible, preferably in different colours.
If you ask early on in an auction, or in an eBay store, you may find a seller is willing to deal in bulk. It has worked for me,in Australia, with sellers in the US. Perhaps it would enable you to improve from low-end to one level up? Good luck.

You only need one success with a particular make of shirt and you're set, in terms of having a reliable brand to look for. I once bought some shirts in my native Bangladesh, made for Conwell, a Scandinavian label, I think. They remain the finest white shirts I ever owned and have 5 of them to this day.

Speaking of suits....I want another one but have no idea what to get. I have a navy pin, black, and darkish grey (not charcoal). Any recommendations for a color for another one? I have blue eyes, black hair, and am extremely pale. I tend to favor pastel shirts and vertical stripes (because I'm short).

Would a charcoal suit be visibly different to the darkish grey? If so, get that one. Alternatively, if most of your suits are 3 button, try a 2 button, in your favourite choice (navy pin, black, and darkish grey, or charcoal)

 

[Sartorian]

Originally Posted by stickonatree

it's funny that people are so willing to spend top money for clothing, but half the world lives in poverty.
I lived in a tiny village in the least developed country on earth (I'll leave that to you to figure out). There was no running water or electricity. People owned fenced off pieces of sand in the desert and called it home. Every year, during the dry (and thus non-farming) season, the young men in the village gathered what money they could and made a couple-hundred-mile trek across the border to the nation's more prosperous southern neighbor. They made money to supplement their family's income and help pay for more food come the hungry season. You know what else they used the money for? New clothes. Whatever they could afford. Every year, during the hottest time of the year (daily temperatures averaging about 105-110 degrees Celsius), you'd see all these flashy dudes strutting about in new, finely pressed pants, with shiny sunglasses and sparkling T-shirts on. They also brought stuff home for their kid brothers and sisters. It was all a great substitute for what they called 'dead man's clothing,' the Salvation Army gifts you can buy at every market in the Third World. They call it that because they don't believe there's any way a man would give the things away, unless he were dead. They were so proud of how they dressed that they even ironed their slacks and shirts at night...with coal-loaded irons. Stickonatree, the fact is, you're more right than you know: everyone, including the half the world that's impoverished is willing to pay top money on clothing. The only people who dress down to express their solidarity with the impoverished of the world are idealistic hippie kids who are more focused on expressing their indignation with the wealth of the first world. I grew up in Berkeley, CA, and saw it every day of my youth. I'm also a raging liberal-progressive type, so I'm not in any way endorsing a conservative maliciousness towards your comment. I just wanted to share my thoughts and experiences on a kind of thought I think is a bit misplaced. A big part of my interest in 'upgrading' my wardrobe is making it more permanent. I'm looking to stop creating more waste by buying clothes that will last me for years, and that I won't have to replace. I see this as the best homage I can pay to the poor people of the world, and I see this in keeping with a good ethic. If everyone dressed in such a way, they'd value what they wore, they wouldn't easily throw things away, sweat shops would barely exist, and people who made clothes would be able to make a good, living wage. Of course I'm simplifying the economics, but really, the disposability of the developed world is indicative of the consumerism that separates it so enormously from everywhere else.

 

[Sator]

Basically, I would don't even buy a sausage to wear until you get to Boston. RTW in Australia is generally so utterly dismal that it is hardly worth considering - a fact that will sink in when you get to Louis Boston, J. Press, Filene's Basement or even just Brooks Brothers (even though BB has really gone downhill over the years).

Brands like Brioni, Borrelli and Kiton are grossly overpriced here due to lack of competition. The only good thing about Australia is that bespoke can be had for significantly less than in the UK, Italy or the US - and exceptionally good bespoke at that. And if by "generic brands" you mean the masses of Chinese made rubbish peddled everywhere here, I refuse to touch any of it - for ethical reasons as well as one of style.

As for shoes, those 'things' you got look at best Blake constructed or worse (and much more likely at that price) glued. They are certainly not dress shoes - as rather loud derbies they are unsuitable to wear with a suit. Whatever you think of RM Williams, at least their construction is in a totally different league compared with those things.

There is a place in Melbourne which stocks C&J and you can get AEs here too through Peter Shepperd at a reasonable price. Personally, I think Santoni (and their bretheren Rosetti) are so pimpish looking, they are not worth paying a cent for.

http://www.petersheppard.com.au/

But generally with the singular exception of RM Williams you cannot for all practical purposes buy shoes in Australia.

 

[javyn]

If you ask early on in an auction, or in an eBay store, you may find a seller is willing to deal in bulk.

Yeah I've found most sellers are willing to wheel and deal.

 

[strazzaque]

Originally Posted by Sator

a fact that will sink in when you get to Louis Boston, J. Press, Filene's Basement or even just Brooks Brothers (even though BB has really gone downhill over the years).

I've been to Boston many times, but Louis is not one of my places. I love the Downtown Crossing FB, which is about to close for renovations. FB's in Newton is also good. The rest of the time I'm a confirmed Marshalls and TJ Maxx shopper. J.Press and Brooks Bros have nothing for me.

bespoke can be had for significantly less than in the UK, Italy or the US - and exceptionally good bespoke at that.

A friend of mine will be very pleased to know this- he saves for the high end stuff.

those 'things' you got look at best Blake constructed or worse (and much more likely at that price) glued. They are certainly not dress shoes - as rather loud derbies they are unsuitable to wear with a suit.

Having read your posts in different threads it is apparent to me that we have very different views on clothing, "wearability" and style.
An earlier post, by Lucky Strike, perhaps, contained a link to a site, from which I lifted this link

There's a lot of emphasis on clothing rules here, official or unofficial, which I'd like to address, before returning to where I branch off, at the proverbial fork in the road.

An early paragraph states that clothing rules,
"give(s) a man security to know that he can follow a manual"”that a professional told him to do it this way. If you aren't experienced enough in dressing yourself to feel confident in your decisions, the best way to proceed is to learn and follow prescribed rules."

The writer eventually "develop(s) and cultivate my own individual sense of style, isolated from strict rules and the power of popular labels and popular opinion with particular sensitivity to good design and high quality."

I started-off where he ended up, except I've stayed away from the high quality stuff. Clothes have only so much value to me, before other interests kick-in.

I notice many posters explicitly express a lack of confidence in their clothing choices, seeking affirmation that they've chosen well, or advice. I'm unlikely to do this, because I know exactly what I want, which brings me back to your point about shoes.

Construction issues aside (I agree there will be gluing involved), I disagree that they cannot be worn with a suit. Your opinion sounds like a rule, and an inflexible one at that, whereas for me, the aforementioned article says it best:

"I'm more flexible with my decisions, I'm more willing to lend the benefit of the doubt when I don't immediately condone a clothing decision, and I have more fun."

I appreciate your input and undeniable knowledge. Thank you for replying. It takes real scholarly dedication to learn that much on a subject, and I respect that trait immensely.

I'll check out that link you sent, but will not be buying. As for AE, the fairfax remains the only model I have ever thought of owning.

 

[kitonbrioni]

My best measure of quality is the feel--"hand"--of the fabric. One really does need to go to a Bergdorf Goodman, Louis Boston, Wilkes Bashford, etc and try on the different makers to see if they are worth the money.