Black Cap Toe Balmoral Oxford - Calf or Shell Cordovan?

[wristandfeet]

Dear Style Experts,

I've had the pleasure of owning a few pairs of shell cordovan boots/derbies and a few pairs of calf derbies. Now I'm looking to purchase a traditional black cap toe balmoral oxford.

I've come to realize that my calf shoes crease heavily due to my foot shape and the way I walk. I do not mind creases on bluchers due to their casual function. However, I think I would mind creasing on my oxfords. And I think no matter how great the calf leather is, it's simply going to crease on my foot.

The solution I thought of is to get a pair of shell cordovan cap toe oxfords. However, should black cap toe oxfords be strictly calfskin? Would shell cordovan oxfords be considered improper for whatever reason?

For reference, if I were to go calfskin, I would choose between C&J handgrade or Antonio Meccariello. If I were to choose shell cordovan, it would be Allen Edmonds or Alden.

Sincere thanks for your advice.

 

[starro]

Shell is an informal leather, so using it in an oxford shoe would clash stylistically. Pretty much all leather creases, so I don't know why it would be an issue for cap toes to shoe creases.

 

[wristandfeet]

Shell is an informal leather, so using it in an oxford shoe would clash stylistically. Pretty much all leather creases, so I don't know why it would be an issue for cap toes to shoe creases.

Thanks for your input. I've certainly read this sentiment elsewhere in the interwebs. And I suppose this is precisely what I wanted to gain clarification on.

For what reason is Shell a less formal leather?

The only one reason that I can think of is that shell is more difficult to hand stitch as finely as calf. So the same shoemaker could possibly make a more finely stitched pair of calfskin shoes than shell cordovan shoes. Is this true?

Please excuse my ignorance, but are there other reasons why Shell is a less formal leather, especially in black?

As for why creasing is an issue: I suppose when I am in my finest suit, I would like to look down on an pair of uncreased oxfords. I wouldn't mind so much when I am in jeans.

 

[dfwcowboy]

Personally I would not buy shell in a cap toe oxford. Shell, CXL, and other leathers besides traditional calf certainly have their place, but for me that place isn't on a cap toe oxford. The reason I view shell as less formal is because I view it as more of a heavy duty leather. Obviously many others don't see it that way because AE and Alden manage to sell a lot of cap toes in shell. I think many buy them for the same reasons in that they are adverse to creases and they see it as an investment that's going to look good, take more hard use, and require less care than calf.

One shoe you might consider is the Hopkinson by AE. The calf leather used for that shoe is much higher quality than their standard lines. I have two of them and the creases they develop are hardly noticeable at all. The down side to them is they rarely go on sale and they are almost as expensive as shell. However, the leather used on them is much closer to much higher end shoes costing far more, and the construction is superior to their standard lines. So I still think they are an excellent value. They have a more traditional American style, which I rather like for a cap toe. Since you are looking at either AE or Alden I expect that's what you're after.

If you want to minimize creases in calf leather, keep them conditioned often. Neglected calf leather is more prone to creasing and the creases it develops are not at all attractive. It's also possible to restore heavily creased calf leather, using methods that involve soaking in water and/or using a heat gun. I've never tried it and probably wouldn't unless I had a pair of shoes I'd otherwise throw out or donate.

 

[starro]

For what reason is Shell a less formal leather?

The supernatural shine. The big rolls all over the vamp. BTW rolls are more noticeable and bring down formality far more than creases. Again, it is very much expected that regular leather creases, so it has no effect on perceived formality.

The only one reason that I can think of is that shell is more difficult to hand stitch as finely as calf. So the same shoemaker could possibly make a more finely stitched pair of calfskin shoes than shell cordovan shoes. Is this true?

First of all, almost nobody hand stitches shoe uppers anymore, and certainly no RTW maker that I know of. They all use sewing machines. That being said, the differences between shell and calf could very well have stitching differences for the maker. I'm not a shoemaker, so I can answer that directly.

As for why creasing is an issue: I suppose when I am in my finest suit, I would like to look down on an pair of uncreased oxfords. I wouldn't mind so much when I am in jeans.

If you zealously want to minimize creases, look for a pair with high toe spring. Assuming of course all the rest of your shoe care is adequate: brushing, shoe trees etc. I will just repeat myself that creases are normal and do not make a shoe less formal. If you personally can't stand them, then look around for the captoe with the right leather, the right last, and the right toe spring.