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Bespoke in London: A lighter, more casual jacket

pfresh

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Hi, looking for some advice. I'd like to commission a bespoke jacket from a London tailor, Savile Row or otherwise, but in more casual, unlined neapolitan style. So it's a bit off-piste – is there any tailors you'd recommend? Are there good neapolitan tailors with a London presence?
 

TheIronDandy

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In general, I would say that asking a Saville Row tailor to do something that's not close to their house style is like going to a top-end sushi chef and ask for a hamburger; even if they make it for you, you're not really getting the benefit of their experience.

I know Simon Crompton of permanent style featured an article about "light weight English jackets", which may be of some interest/inspiration: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2024/02/my-case-for-the-lightweight-english-jacket.html

If I wanted a 'Row tailor to make an unlined jacket, I would probably go to Cad and the Dandy, simply because they have much larger production volumes and are less tied to a specific house style, so it's more likely they'll have cut something like that recently.
 

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Thanks, you've confirmed my worries about the 'Row tailors – Cad and the Dandy were front runners, but I think I will look for a Neapolitan tailor with a London presence instead. Sartoria Caliendo are on the list, but open to other suggestions.
 

JamesInLondon

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Rubinacci in Mount Street actually are Neapolitan bespoke tailors, but with a Savile Row price structure. One of their traits is that in their lightweight jackets, not only is the back unlined, but the sleeves are too.

However the quality is undeniable, a Savile Row tailor looked at the inside of my Rubinacci jacket and said that it was of finer quality than either of his previous employers - make of that what you will.
 

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