Bangkok tailors

[ter1413]

You should not be washing slacks IMO. And you should not be washing them "often."

 

[Halifax]

You should not be washing slacks IMO. And you should not be washing them "often."

+1. Airing and spot cleaning with a damp cloth should suffice in most cases. If this fails, woolen trousers (almost universally) should be dry clean only (and not often). A cold water soaking may be permissible as a last resort.

Cheers,
HPH

 

[Dan D]

Thank you for the feedback Gentlemen. I was complaining to the wife and she almost choked when I told her I had washed them... live and learn. I just have a hard time keeping clothing clean in Bangkok's brutally hot climate. I don't even wear my North American suits here as they're just too heavy.

Plan forward - invest in a few more pairs of slacks so that I can rotate them more easily between dry-cleanings. I'm also looking at eventually replacing my linen jacket and will post feedback from that experience when it gets cut.

 

[Dan D]

So this is my second time having clothing made at Tanika on Sukhumvit. The first time, was for trousers, business shirts, and casual linen shirts. There was a steep learning curve with regards to the incompatibility of beautifully hand-sewn & shanked buttons, versus the centrifuge-like spin cycles of Thai washing machines (all of which were re-sewn without charge). The shirts are cut nice with decent material, but for actual value compared to something off the rack, I was hoping for more personalised touches like rotated sleeves, split yoke, and single needled seams. For this reason, I’ll continue to search for a shirt maker, but as a tailor, Tanika has earned a second round of my business.
So I returned to the shop wanting a couple more pairs of trousers as wardrobe builders – one being light khaki and the other a rich navy. I chose a LP wool for the khakis and a 140 CBV wool for the navy. I know they probably won’t wear well, but the material feels wonderfully light in BKK’s hot climate. I have full confidence that the materials are authentic. I mostly base my trust on the genuine respect the shop has in handling and storing its bolts. The lower end stuff sits out in the open on the shelf, but the finer weaves are kept under plastic wrap (unlike the other lower Sukhumvit touts that leave their “100% cashmere” rolls on the floor) and I noticed the medallions of authenticity attached. (I’m sure there’s a store that sells counterfeit medallions right next to the shop that attaches forged selvedge, but that’s not the vibe I get here).
Looking at the shelves of material, I figured it was time to replace an old fused linen jacket with something a little nicer that I would actually wear and decided, ‘what the heck, let’s make a summer suit’. My requests are: ½ canvassed, only partially lined, and very little padding in the shoulders. Initially, after pulling a couple rolls of neutral-coloured linens off the shelf, I was shown a beautiful light-cream coloured LP wool patterned with navy blue highlights. Gorgeous, but I knew even without asking that the material was beyond my price-point for a simple summer suit (maybe next time). When I stated as much, they certainly didn’t make me feel any worse and proceeded to take ten measurements for the jacket. I was walking back to the counter when another staff member, who’d been supervising the measurements, offered me another linen from a small package of material in the counter (no bolt). Wow, I can compare the feel of this linen to 130 cotton and all she told me about it was that it was from an Italian mill – I’ll get more details when I return. It’ll take them eight days to order in my specific colour and be ready for the first fitting. At a little less than double the price of the original linen, I’m excited to “upgrade” to this material. We then got visiting and she presented to me some packages of Thomas Mason material (three different packages, each with labels and just enough material for a single shirt) that had special ordered for someone – that was actually my first time handling this beautiful material; cotton so fine it was silky to the touch.
So now I’m awaiting the first fitting for the jacket (I’m confident the trousers will all work out well) and will post pictures when things are ready.

 

[Halifax]

There was a steep learning curve with regards to the incompatibility of beautifully hand-sewn & shanked buttons, versus the centrifuge-like spin cycles of Thai washing machines (all of which were re-sewn without charge).

I tend to find lingerie bags greatly increase the lifespan of my shirts, especially those with hand work. I'm sure your wife can help in this department. I also use them for my Lisle cotton socks.

The shirts are cut nice with decent material, but for actual value compared to something off the rack, I was hoping for more personalised touches like rotated sleeves, split yoke, and single needled seams. For this reason, I’ll continue to search for a shirt maker, but as a tailor, Tanika has earned a second round of my business.

I find it surprising that Tanika didn't offer you split yokes; this was a standard feature when I purchased them a while back. My shirts from the Tani & Tanika were also single needle, but perhaps in reverse to what you would expect (ie double track on the right side, single on the wrong side). It is definitely lock stitching. I my experience, rotated sleeves are a much more exclusive feature of which I see rarely (keeping in mind I do not shop at the bespoke level).

The one item I would have preferred that was not offered was non-fused collars and cuffs. I prefer these softer elements, especially when wearing shirts more casually in a hotter climate.

I agree, at ~3000THB (at the current exchange rate), there are better deals to be had (such as Shirt Maker's in Japan if the fit is suitable). I'd be keen to know if you find something that matches, or beats, the quality at a lower price point.

Quote:

I look forward to seeing the results and reading your review.

Cheers,
HPH

 

[Horn]



Just wanted to add my experience as a datapoint. I arrived to Bangkok this morning and went straight to Tanika. She quoted me 49k for a fully canvassed and 39k for half canvassed. I ended up selecting a Zegna fabric that put my total to 59k, which I realize is a ton of money, but her shop's work looked the best out of any shop I visited. Narin said I didn't have time to get anything done (fused or otherwise) with my 5 days in Bangkok, 10-12 days away, then another 5 days at the end of my trip, but I suspect that has more to do with his workload than the amount of work required to get this done (for this amount of money!).

Tanika quoted shirts as 1500-3000 depending on fabric. One of her higher-end fabrics was 4500. She initially wouldn't make a shirt with the fabric I brought, but after my suit order as well as another blazer she was "willing" to use my stuff for 1500/shirt. I realize I'm getting overcharged but my main focus is quality and I don't want to deal with needing a bunch of corrections.

Had measurements today (Saturday) and am supposed to go for my first fitting on Monday. Will post updates for everyone!

I forgot to follow up!

Tanika did a fantastic job, especially since this was my first visit and was very rushed. Her recommendations were a bit on the conservative side so I had to push for a few things, and if / when I get the chance to go back some day I will probably take my measurements in a bit on my shirts. The cut of my suits are also a bit conservative, but I don't know if I would change much. My only real complaint is that the shirts require a ton of starch near the next to prevent my top non-collar button from scrunching (so maybe more material was needed? who knows).

I ended up buying 4 shirts and 2 suits. The first suit was a beautiful VBC wool, though I don't recall its weight:

Tanika warned me about choosing a light-colored liner but I chose it anyway. Next time I'll pick a darker color!

The other suit is an incredible Zegna wool / cashmere blend:

I haven't had a chance to wear this one yet, but I'll upload some photos when I do!

Here are a few photos of one of the shirts:

 

[madcab]

I did try Tanika tailor, Tailor on ten and Universal tailors. I ordered a suit from each store and would have my first fitting on Monday. Will get back on the results.

 

[Halifax]

For reference, here is Paul Lux's (from PG) opinion on the matter of Bangkok tailors. It seems he can offer little insight beyond what is already on this forum. Narin seems to be his pick. Interesting to note he mentions the high tax on imported European fabrics, which seems to be at odds with what David Hober has stated previously - perhaps the local wholesalers are to blame?

Since my last post, one of my Thai acquaintances, who has experience with Tanika and Narin, had some work done by World Group and considers them quite highly. However, he has not informed me of who the head tailor is, or what level of hand details they offer, if any.

 

[Sam Hober]



For reference, here is Paul Lux's (from PG) opinion ... Interesting to note he mentions the high tax on imported European fabrics, which seems to be at odds with what David Hober has stated previously - perhaps the local wholesalers are to blame?
...

Import Tariffs - Thailand

HS Chapter/Subheading
Tariff Rate Range (%)
........................
Woven Fabric
-silk
5007
17.5%
-wool
5111-5113
5%

In Thailand silk has a higher tax than wool 17.5% duty plus 7% VAT

Wool fabric is 5% duty plus 7% VAT

You have to careful with what you read both online and on paper when writers or makers who don't actually make anything are reporting...

As a point of reference In America there is a 25% wool fabric import duty and none on silk fabric.

 

[schwein2015]

Hi - have been reading through the last 15 pages of this thread.

Has anyone had any experience with Button Up in Bangkok? Seems like they are pricier than your average bangkok tailor (based on internet research). And how do they measure up to tailors around the region?

Thanks.

 

[Kiwi Man]

Hey,

I have never had the shirt made by them, but I do have their "OTR" shirt. From my experience of wearing their shirt, they are quite durable.

For Thai standard, they are a bit pricey and you can only get your suits or made custom made only at their Thong lor AKA flagship branch.

I don't know if it helps, but I surely hope so!

 

[meister]

Years ago I found the best way to get the right suit from my regular BKK tailor was to give him a suit to copy.

What do you guys think would be the best one over the Net where I just send them a suit to copy?

 

[gamlet]

As a Bangkok resident, I'd have to second the recommendation for Tanika, for shirts anyway - have not tried their other offerings.
Bangkok really has three tailors for shirts that are decent : Narin, Tanika and Lala Duly. If I'm to be honest I *enjoy* wearing the Lala Duly ones the most - top fabric, excellent workmanship and cut. And the buying experience at the Kempinski is very enjoyable and intimate. The advantage of Tanika of course is that they are the actual tailors, so there is more to and fro about the final adjustments. Both they and Narin are craftsmen and artisans - a dying breed among Thai tailors. I'd add one caveats : I am not sure about the construction of shirts for non-Asian frames here, something which Lala does very well. It's just my feeling. I had some copies of Italian shirts made by Tanika with lovely fabrics and was delighted with the workmanship - and this is a very good way to go with them. They adjusted length and details and collars to a ready-made garment from Borelli in Rome. For 2,500-4,900, you get a great shirt.( Lala is about 5,800 if you are over 6 foot tall, where they need to cut extra fabric.) Narin is more French in taste and it's a matter of opinion how this will work for you. He has excellent fabrics and is a very honest and smart guy - he is worth a try. He'll do unfused collars, which is worth the extra 1000 baht and waiting time.

 

[MichaelCee]

Bumping this thread as I'm in Bangkok for a while and looking for recommendations.

 

[echow]

just would like to follow up, if who has more recent experience with narin or tanika recently and could share their experiences.