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A question on the history of double-breasted suits and coats

MRex

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Good afternoon, all!

I have a whole host of questions on hand to ask, but I'll try to space them out a bit... first up is about double-breasted suits and coats.

Was it ever the case for both columns (left and right) of buttons to be functional? I would for some reason find it rather odd if the second column started out as non-functional, as this was (so far as I can tell) not the case with buttoned cuffs, for instance -- though, of course, the counter-argument is the existence of the customary two buttons above the functional [sets of] buttons, but if I understand correctly, these would have come about later, since double-breasted jackets seem to have had their origin in military attire, which tend not to have these extraneous buttons. I know it's a bit of a niche question, and apart from trying to dig up very early books on tailoring, I'm not sure where to look for an answer. Perhaps some of our menswear historians on the forum would know?

Thank you!

Sincerely,
M. Rex
 

comrade

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Military uniforms? You are probably correct. Mid 18th century. See pics of Fredrick the Great 1763 and later:
gettyimages-905520088-2048x2048.jpg
 
Last edited:

MRex

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Also English Country Gentlemen (1750)

Hmm... this would seem to indicate that the purely decorative/functionless buttons did exist at the outset, though admittedly, one would forgive a painter for missing some finer details, so it might not be entirely conclusive... very interesting, though -- thank you for the images!
 

Thin White Duke

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Pure guesswork from me but naval jackets (which evolved into the naval-inspired reefer jackets and blue blazers) were double breasted and the revers could be buttoned back on themselves so I suppose a case could be made that there’s at least some influence in today’s DB jackets from those functional double rows of buttons that naval officers used in warmer weather.
 

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