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  1. bluesman528

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    I think that a bespoke customer should have some educated opinions about what he likes in shoulder expression, lapel shape and size, length of the jacket etc. It's not that different from fabric choice, it's all part of the overall design. Many people choose their tailor because they know that...
  3. bluesman528

    What things affect suit durability

    That's obviously true but if you embrace it that way this whole economizing "my suit fabric has to be like stainless steel" thing will not matter anymore for you. You would be even able to add some high-quality fabrics to the rotation which are not made for withstanding abrasion in the first...
  4. bluesman528

    What things affect suit durability

    Quite good hints so far but the ultimate hint was not there until now: Buy more suits. Buy seasonal suits. If you have a day where you put quite some stress to the garment wear a suit which is up to the task (high-twist wool or wool-mohair in summer, thick, hard-finished worsteds or even tweed...
  5. bluesman528

    We Have Lost the War, Now Come the Reparations

    My usual flight gear on long distance business travel is blue jacket + BD shirt sans tie + chino. It's certainly comfortable enough but at the same time still quite presentable. On shorter flights I don't mind flying in a suit, especially when I'm going directly to a meeting afterwards. I have...
  6. bluesman528

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    FWIW, I have a suit in Dugdale RCV, I like it a lot but it is for me (located in Central Europe) more of a shoulder season cloth. It's definitely too hot to wear in summer and I need warmer fabrics (mostly flannel) for the winter months.
  7. bluesman528

    Bijan suits opinions

    The man caters to the 1% quite effectively in a classic LaLaLand Versace++ kind of way. And it works because he provides a one-stop shopping experience with carefully aligned combinations completed with all the needed brightly colored accessories for people with no budget restrictions. There is...
  8. bluesman528

    Who still wears a suit to work?

    This is not a sign from god, you simply got older in the meantime and the woman thought it was only the jacket. ;) Keep the jacket as it doesn't matter anyway. :laugh:
  9. bluesman528

    Who still wears a suit to work?

    The thread title and the poll asked the wrong question and the discussion took that up on the last few pages: Today there are very few jobs which require suit and tie and that definitely includes my and most other office job profiles at least for the last twenty years. The more relevant question...
  10. bluesman528

    Who still wears a suit to work?

    It is entertaining, I agree. Beyond the facts that its commercial influence is very limited, that the Berlin citizens are relatively poorer than they are typically in a capital of a developed country and that Berlin does not even have a real international airport it is the only city in Germany...
  11. bluesman528

    Who still wears a suit to work?

    As a German I have to say, Berlin beyond the government districts must be one of the worst spots for tailored clothing worldwide, much worse than the rest of urban Germany. And that is mostly because it is one of those places where everyone is proud of these low standards as an indicator of...
  12. bluesman528

    Who still wears a suit to work?

    Of course it is very true for at least two decades that a suit and tie is not required anymore for most professions, most probably that was even the case when SF was founded. Since then this casualization spread to even more professions. But from my (usually lurking) perspective the whole point...
  13. bluesman528

    Who still wears a suit to work?

    I never wore a bowler hat and never saw someone wearing it. That is not the case for suits. And I do not think that the bowler hat was ever a common dress option outside of urban Great Britain. But of course I do regularly wear hats as a cover against the weather, sun in the summer (-> Panama...
  14. bluesman528

    Who still wears a suit to work?

    I am quite satisfied with what I achieved so far but that's me, perhaps it could be better in jeans and sneakers. :) If you do well what you do, communicate in a likeable way and know how to maintain your personal network a suit and tie will not erase that, that's at least my personal...
  15. bluesman528

    Who still wears a suit to work?

    I am working in corporate IT in a global company and this job does not require a suit and tie. I do. Every work day. Casual Friday is not casual either, it's business. But what's way more important: I love to wear that stuff, I feel better in it, I love to combine it, it has lots of variations...
  16. bluesman528

    Pitti Uomo 94

    So you do feel more beautiful than your wife? ;)
  17. bluesman528

    Pitti Uomo 94

    I rather would say women are ultimately, infinitely more variable and beautiful. On the contrary, the masculine ideal expresses authority and dignity. This is generally not supported by advancing design (or being a peacock for that matter) and therefore it can be more stable over time.
  18. bluesman528

    Fit advice

    I would say the shoulder divots are a minor issue compared with the rest. The hip and waist regions of the jacket are way too tight. Frankly said, you look a little bit pregnant. Of course, you don't have to apologize for your body shape, it's the suit cut which is not an ideal choice for you...
  19. bluesman528

    Suitsupply NYC

     Here you go: http://eu.suitsupply.com/suits/suit-grey-check-lazio-p3684/P3684,en,pd.html?start=1&cgid=Suits Yes, it's a seasonal suit, yes, perhaps it's not available in the US, I don't know, but it's a Lazio with 20% polyester. Face up to the facts: Poly blends are here to stay if we, the...
  20. bluesman528

    WW Chan Shanghai Suit Results

     You already analyzed that by yourself, you need less fabric under the buttocks. After that the pants will fall cleaner in the back. You need a good alteration tailor. This is something that should not happen when one is using bespoke or MTM services.
  21. bluesman528

    Suitsupply NYC

     I was talking of 20% polyamide or polyester. The elastane example was not mine, it should only point out that there are certain amounts of man-made fibers acceptable in a cloth (what is true, but not a sign of a really good fabric). As long as the poly blends are restricted to a small...
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