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Recent content by NHorween
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Leather Quality and Properties
The Kellet is what I was referencing, if you're willing to loan me a little bit. It makes up very well - if you want to contact me through our website I can give you some examples. The tanning process is different than that of Shell, but it utilizes the same bark retannage and is a full veg.- NHorween
- Post #2,188
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Leather Quality and Properties
You have the benefit of having actually worked with our stuff and others, I will defer to your experience. Do you have a piece of this waxed calf you're referencing? Can be very small, and I will return it. I'd like to have a try at matching it.- NHorween
- Post #2,184
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Leather Quality and Properties
Waxed Flesh Chromexcel does have some wax in the finish, among other components that lay the nap of the flesh flat. The effect is more of a result of our ability to smooth plate (like a big iron) the leather with heat and pressure to seal everything up. It's a traditional blend of...- NHorween
- Post #2,182
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Leather Quality and Properties
This is a long time (since 1905) standard procedure. I'm surprised to see that pattern, that is a result of vacuum drying leather. Moisture is sucked out of the leather in a low pressure vessel over a screen, which leaves that pattern. 5 oz is not really lightweight in the rest of the...- NHorween
- Post #2,155
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Leather Quality and Properties
To us, butts and shells are the same. A horsehide yields us three products, the front, the strip, and the butt/shells: http://horween.com/leathers/equine-hyde-chart/. The shell has always been described to me as a membrane that forms like a callous from the movement of the animal. The...- NHorween
- Post #2,149
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Leather Quality and Properties
It's been a while, but I thought I'd chime in. We try for a finished product as close to 5 oz as possible. This weight will vary across the Shell and weight falls off towards what was the rear of the hide. It is not impossible to see a 2 oz difference from one side of the shell to the other...- NHorween
- Post #2,146
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Shell Cordovan Wallet
It develops well with age for sure. The second to last picture is three identical shell wallets of different ages. http://horween.wordpress.com/2012/04/17/through-the-lens-3/- NHorween
- Post #19
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Shell Cordovan Denmark/Sweden/ Netherlands/Slowenia
Here's full contact info for the three mentioned - the site will be back up soon! Lamparter GmbH Martin-Luther-Str. 23 77933 Lahr Tel. +49 7821 98335-0 Fax. +49 7821 98335-2 Email: [email protected] www.lamparter-ortho.com BRIZZI AGENZIE S.R.L. VIA VALBRONA 4 20125 MILANO TEL +39 02...- NHorween
- Post #5
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Edge Dressing (?) and Vintage Shell Cordovan!!!
There's probably a way to remove it, but not without changing/pulling some of the color underneath the edge dressing. If it's sitting all the way up on the surface, you may be able to scrape some of it (carefully) with a the backside of a knife. You can also trying rubbing alcohol cut with...- NHorween
- Post #23
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Nick V. interviews Nick Horween, Horween Leather
The total tanning capacity worldwide has not decreased, it's just been shifted and refocused. One would assume that since there are more people now, that more leather is made to keep up with what people want and need. When we talk about jackets it becomes more of a price factor than a...- NHorween
- Post #18
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Polish Color for Dark Cognac Cordovan?
I like Venetian because it gives the right amount of shine for me. I use Renovateur with success as well. The fact that Zoe's is domestic (and in Chicago) is important to me.- NHorween
- Post #22
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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How to identify cordovan leather?
Hey guys! Nice post. I have a question about cordovan. Next winter I'll be moving to a place where it literally rains on average 235 days a year, plus occasional snow. Is it cordovan a better option than calf for that insane amount of water? And what about soles: dainite or commando? And if...- NHorween
- Post #31
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Horsehide vs. Shell Cordovan? ...
@Fishball - We grade the shells based on cuttable area. If the imperfection is a **** only then we may have left it in place depending on where it was located. You can always exchange/return uncut leather, though this doesn't sound too problematic to me. @cimabue - thanks! @bengal-stripe -...- NHorween
- Post #22
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Horsehide vs. Shell Cordovan? ...
Thank you! If I might...is Horween offering a retanned horsefront suitable for dress shoes? I, for one, would be interested.... It might depend on the definition of dress, but we have a handful of nice options.- NHorween
- Post #14
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Horsehide vs. Shell Cordovan? ...
One of the major limitations in using horsehide for shoe uppers is weight. Horse fronts (FQHH) are naturally around 2 - 3.5 oz (0.8 - 1.4mm), with the heavier end being less common. That said, there are a handful of companies using horse front for footwear, and Thorogood makes a boot using...- NHorween
- Post #12
- Forum: Classic Menswear