If you're fascinated by the evolution of the fashion industry, consider adding Apple TV+'s "The New Look" to your watchlist. Set in post-World War II Paris, the series delves into how Christian Dior transformed fashion with his iconic "New Look" line and explores his relationship with Coco Chanel.

Even if you're not a history enthusiast, the exquisite costumes alone make it worth tuning in. Luxire, a longstanding Affiliate Vendor of Styleforum, took charge of designing the men's wardrobe for the show. We had the opportunity to chat with Luxire's founder Ashish Arya about his firsthand experience as one of the show's clothiers.

The interview has been edited sightly for clarity.



Styleforum: Can you guide us through the process of creating the costumes for the male characters in "The New Look" on Apple TV+? What were some of the challenges you faced in bringing the vision of the show's costume design to life?

Ashish Arya:
We were contacted by the French studio to create certain clothing items for the show. After discussing the requirements, we conducted some sampling and deliberated on fabrics before finalizing the items. The challenge often lies in obtaining the specific measurements and details we need. We frequently find ourselves working with limited information, relying on our own understanding to fill in the details.

SF: "The New Look" showcases a period-specific aesthetic. How did you ensure authenticity in the tailoring and design of the suits?

AA:
Luxire understands period clothing very well. We have worked on many movie and TV productions over time. Given our ability to create unique pieces, Luxire is often contacted by costume designers to fulfill requests they are otherwise unable to accommodate.

SF: Which costume from the show stands out to you the most, and why?

AA:
The shirts feature numerous details in the collars, cuffs, and overall fit that are true to the period. We thoroughly enjoyed crafting them.

SF: Were there any specific materials or techniques utilized in the creation of the suits for "The New Look" that you found particularly innovative or challenging?

AA:
Luxire has always adhered to traditional tailoring methods. Incorporating modern requirements and vintage expectations into our technique often necessitates multiple iterations.
Due to mass production techniques, tailoring has undergone significant changes. Patterns and sewing methods have evolved, each impacting the fit.

SF: Collaboration is often pivotal in the entertainment industry. Could you elaborate on your collaboration process with the costume designer and production team of "The New Look"? How did you ensure that Luxire's expertise aligned with the creative vision of the show?

AA:
One of the reasons why Luxire is preferred for making some of these clothing items is how easy we are to work with. We possess a deep understanding of period clothing and have in-house expertise in crafting complex garments. When necessary, we can arrange for custom weaves, printing, embroidery, and intricate compositions.

SF: As a brand specializing in made-to-measure clothing, how did you adapt your approach to suit the demands of a television production schedule for "The New Look"?

AA:
Tailoring-wise, I believe we are perfectly suited for such tasks. Our team possesses the skills to create even the most challenging and unique pieces effortlessly.
Managing the schedule can often be challenging. We ensure timely communication, swift sampling, and then there's usually a quiet period before a sudden burst of urgency. We understand that designers are often overloaded with tasks, which is entirely understandable. However, they know that we are flexible with timelines and can be relied upon.

SF: How do you perceive the evolution of the fashion and costume design industry from the era depicted in "The New Look" to the present day?

AA:
Material techniques have indeed evolved, with many positive outcomes. The incorporation of Lycra, for instance, has greatly enhanced clothing comfort and facilitated certain fits that were once challenging. However, I'm not particularly fond of some of the poor fits that are often accepted on screen.

For instance, characters portrayed as very wealthy and stylish may be seen wearing jackets with cinched backs and poorly fitting trousers. It's unfortunate that costume designers sometimes have to accept such shortcomings under their name.

SF: Looking ahead, are there any upcoming projects or collaborations in the world of television or film that Luxire is particularly excited about?

AA:
We're currently engaged in some fascinating entertainment projects. One of them is a gaming film, which presents unique challenges. Additionally, we're dressing priests in fineries that are no longer in production, involving almost all aspects of textile manufacturing.
Another project, nicknamed 'Love,' entails creating costumes for princes and queens from various parts of the world, which is also very unique.



Check out this gallery to browse the costumes and read more about the show.

Visit Luxire's Official Affiliate Vendor Thread.

Visit Luxire's official website.
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