Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[camez_]

This is a solid and comprehensive list. The only addition that I can think of is “superbio and beausoleil” from drapers/vbc. It’s essentially the updated 13oz 5 star bunch(discontinued).

Overall, once fully updated, the list should be bookmarked. Shoutout to @camez_

Funny enough, it's one of my favorite ones and I still forgot it. Thanks!

 

[camez_]

It’s just rebranded.

I was curious about five star, I’ve never seen the book. Is it a worsted? Or is it a worsted flannel? I have an old five star back when Carlo Barbara made it that is a worsted flannel (and awesome fabric). So I was curious about other’s experience with the fabric.

It was and still is VBC' Made in England range. Historically, many Italian merchants had their English ranges and this is one of the worsted wool ones. It got quite legendary as it was quite inexpensive, had very nice designs and a consistent high quality without any big issues.

 

[Noirkw]

Does anyone know if Loro Piana still offers their Pecora Nera cloth? Some of my local tailor shops stopped stocking this bunch since early this year.

I can still see it as available

 

[jonathanS]

It was and still is VBC' Made in England range. Historically, many Italian merchants had their English ranges and this is one of the worsted wool ones. It got quite legendary as it was quite inexpensive, had very nice designs and a consistent high quality without any big issues.

Interesting, I wonder if I’m mistaken about the five star I have being a worsted flannel. The hand is so soft, I assumed it was a worsted flannel. At any rate, if you can find Carlo barbera for drapers (pre vbc / drapes merger), you’ve struck money. That fabric is outstanding. There’s a reason kiton sources all their fabric from barbera.

 

[camez_]

Does anyone know if Loro Piana still offers their Pecora Nera cloth? Some of my local tailor shops stopped stocking this bunch since early this year.

yes, they do. I just looked it up. I heard something about it being phased out or integrated into other bunches but that's no the case so far.

 

[camez_]

another interesting aspect is that Draper's/VBC still sells cloth under the Five Stars brand, but only in Asia. They also offer limited seasonal cloth

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Has anybody had a blazer made up in one of the two Bateman Ogden Apollo navy hopsacks? If so would you be willing to post a photo?

 

[classicalthunde]

Has anybody had a blazer made up in one of the two Bateman Ogden Apollo navy hopsacks? If so would you be willing to post a photo?

don't know if he still frequents the boards, but I believe @Encathol Epistemia had one made up with Genuardi

 

[DaAlSh]

let's make a list:

standeven - british classic
dugdale - royal classic vantage / english & town classics
Drapers - superbio and beausoleil (ex five stars)
holland & sherry - intercity / city of london
fox bros - worsted classics
hfw - classic
schofield & smith - westminster
bateman ogden - westminster II & york (both 14oz tho) as they don't have a 12/13oz range?!
smith woolens - botany
harrison's - oyster

I surely have forgotten some, but this is the essential list.

I'm a big fan of Standeven's, drapers' and H&S' cloth, so I'm a bit biased
dry hand, good drape, everything you could ask for

botany is a bit softer to the hand iirc

As I understood it, Fox were famous for making flannels, not worsteds. Furthermore, pretty sure they have shut their factory and now buy in, so have essentially become a distributor rather than producer. I don't understand the love for their current production - sure, it's nice, but priced probably twice what it's worth.

 

[MRex]

As I understood it, Fox were famous for making flannels, not worsteds. Furthermore, pretty sure they have shut their factory and now buy in, so have essentially become a distributor rather than producer. I don't understand the love for their current production - sure, it's nice, but priced probably twice what it's worth.

Interesting. What do you recommend instead of Fox for flannels?

 

[DaAlSh]

Interesting. What do you recommend instead of Fox for flannels?

There's nothing 'wrong' with Fox flannel (I have a suit in it) - it's just massivley expensive for what it is. Otherwise, I have flannels in both Minnis and Harrisons, that are equally good (if push came to shove, I slightly prefer the Harrisons to the other two).

 

[MRex]

There's nothing 'wrong' with Fox flannel (I have a suit in it) - it's just massivley expensive for what it is. Otherwise, I have flannels in both Minnis and Harrisons, that are equally good (if push came to shove, I slightly prefer the Harrisons to the other two).

Exactly. Most of Fox's cloth selection is very expensive... I think their covert cloth is over $300/m, and their coating isn't much cheaper...

 

[stubbsj20]

Does anyone know the fabric code for this Loro Piana fabric? Or what book it is from?

 

[yanagi]

Does anyone know the fabric code for this Loro Piana fabric? Or what book it is from?

Spoiler

View attachment 2012623

Not 100% sure, but I think it's from the older Sopra Visso book, which had lighter weight worsted tweeds. The current Sopra Visso book has mid-weight plain weaves.

 

[stubbsj20]

Not 100% sure, but I think it's from the older Sopra Visso book, which had lighter weight worsted tweeds. The current Sopra Visso book has mid-weight plain weaves.

Thank you!