Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[jonathanS]

Both high twist, I just think of ascot as the gold standard for that type of cloth

I agree, I was just not sure why you said it’s only a little more than ascot. I quite like ascot.

How much does ascot cost btw? I’ve only ever ordered through tailors.

Does anyone have a comparison between fox air and drapers ascot? I have 2 navy suits coming (likely this month), one in drapers ascot, the other in fox air.

 

[JHWilliams]

How do you compare the Harrisons to the old lessers 16?

Nowhere near as refined

 

[xizenta]

I've never ordered it outside my tailor either but the last time I talked to him he told me the Italian sales rep for Drapers charges the same for all three weights in the bunch (normally the heavier cloths in a bunch are more expensive due to more yarn), and about $80/meter. I think Fox Air is similar and Dugdale is cheaper.

Fox Air and Ascot have been compared many times in this thread. Ascot is more "fluid" while Fox Air is more rigid. IE if you drape a swatch over a 3d object picture the Ascot wrapping around the item better while the Fox Air will tend to bend on only one axis. Ascot is also heavier and more textured (4 ply) which I don't love. I think it can look kind of pajama-y bc of the fluidity and texture...

I have my first 2-ply Ascot suit on Order (18017). I am hoping I will like it more.

 

[Iuppiter]

I've never ordered it outside my tailor either but the last time I talked to him he told me the Italian sales rep for Drapers charges the same for all three weights in the bunch (normally the heavier cloths in a bunch are more expensive due to more yarn), and about $80/meter. I think Fox Air is similar and Dugdale is cheaper.

Fox Air and Ascot have been compared many times in this thread. Ascot is more "fluid" while Fox Air is more rigid. IE if you drape a swatch over a 3d object picture the Ascot wrapping around the item better while the Fox Air will tend to bend on only one axis. Ascot is also heavier and more textured (4 ply) which I don't love. I think it can look kind of pajama-y bc of the fluidity and texture...

I have my first 2-ply Ascot suit on Order (18017). I am hoping I will like it more.

My opinion of ascot 4-ply varies day to day for the reasons you stated, sometimes I love the silky flow of the fabric and sometimes it's way too floppy when I'm walking around quickly. I find it tends to bag at the knees after a day's wear more so than the stiffer fox air and 9/10oz minnis fresco too.

 

[matchankh]

Has anyone had experience with both Fresco III mock Leno and Dugdale Tropicalair mock Leno fabrics? I'm planning to make a navy sports jacket for the summer and I'm currently leaning towards the Dugdale fabric, which is slightly heavier at 340g. I'm curious if anyone has any insights or preferences between the two fabrics, or if the weight difference is negligible for a summer jacket.

 

[camez_]

got a tropicalair mock leno, love it. i'm not sure how it performs in hot weather (above 30degrees) but i like to wear it three seasons

 

[bernoulli]

Has anyone had experience with both Fresco III mock Leno and Dugdale Tropicalair mock Leno fabrics? I'm planning to make a navy sports jacket for the summer and I'm currently leaning towards the Dugdale fabric, which is slightly heavier at 340g. I'm curious if anyone has any insights or preferences between the two fabrics, or if the weight difference is negligible for a summer jacket.

Have both. Fresco III is light and airy, and Tropicalair is much heftier.

 

[yanagi]

Has anyone had experience with both Fresco III mock Leno and Dugdale Tropicalair mock Leno fabrics? I'm planning to make a navy sports jacket for the summer and I'm currently leaning towards the Dugdale fabric, which is slightly heavier at 340g. I'm curious if anyone has any insights or preferences between the two fabrics, or if the weight difference is negligible for a summer jacket.

I have a DB in the Fresco 510244 and an SB in the Tropicalair 4612. The cloths themselves are both great; you can't go wrong with either.

In terms of color, the 510244 is a conservative dark navy while the 4612 is a bright navy. I wore my 4612 to an NYC summer wedding last year. It was fairly humid day in the low 80s. That's probably the limit (at least for me) for comfortably wearing it outside during the summer.

 

[matchankh]

Have both. Fresco III is light and airy, and Tropicalair is much heftier.

I have a DB in the Fresco 510244 and an SB in the Tropicalair 4612. The cloths themselves are both great; you can't go wrong with either.

In terms of color, the 510244 is a conservative dark navy while the 4612 is a bright navy. I wore my 4612 to an NYC summer wedding last year. It was fairly humid day in the low 80s. That's probably the limit (at least for me) for comfortably wearing it outside during the summer.

Thanks for the advice, it seems like I can't go wrong with either for the jacket. I'll check with my tailor to see which one I prefer.

I'm also considering getting a pair of summer trousers to go with the jacket. Would a sand, dark beige or taupe color made with fresco be a good choice? I haven't seen many of these colors in fresco. If the sand color fresco would be an odd choice, I'll go for a khaki cotton chino instead. I already have a light beige casual linen suit (Dugdale Lisburn 4630) that works well as separates. So, I could pair the beige linen pants with the navy jacket and the darker sand-colored fresco pants with both the light beige and navy jackets. I also have a mid-grey fresco trousers that could work with both of these jackets. I’m not sure if I’m trying too hard to make all these piece interchangeable though.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Have trousers made in light grey Fresco. They will go with both jackets.

 

[ericgereghty]

I have a DB in the Fresco 510244 and an SB in the Tropicalair 4612. The cloths themselves are both great; you can't go wrong with either.

In terms of color, the 510244 is a conservative dark navy while the 4612 is a bright navy. I wore my 4612 to an NYC summer wedding last year. It was fairly humid day in the low 80s. That's probably the limit (at least for me) for comfortably wearing it outside during the summer.

This seems about right, unless you're a psycho. At some point, you're just mitigating your suffering when it gets muggy...

 

[camez_]

funded some cottons:

 

[heldentenor]

Have both. Fresco III is light and airy, and Tropicalair is much heftier.

Handled swatches of both last week and would agree. Tropicalair struck me as both heavier and more densely woven--more suitable for a crisp-textured jacket in cooler weather than for an open weave, spring/summer hopsack.

 

[Crispyj]

Summer jacket with Qemal. Vintage of course. Very dry hand.

 

[lordsuperb]

funded some cottons:

What fabric book?