Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[cupper]



Just picked up this '00 suit after a long wait due to the Nigerian postal service being weird. Anyway, it came in from wireartist and it is FANTASTIC! I had to share .
Material is a fantastic cotton and the construction of the jacket and pants are crazy. Hidden pockets all over the place - including one in the lapel and several on the sleeves and legs of the pants. Zippers, buttons, the works. Had to take the full suit for a spin.
T-shirt is Margiela from SS11 and sandals are Burberry Prorsum also SS11.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Ivwri great pick up it looks awesome!
Are the pants and jacket (fully) lined?
I love the beige and white combo for summer.

 

[xeraphim]

ss11 long shirt on y!jp, size 4.

 

[Ivwri]

Thanks cupper . The jacket only has a partial lining at the top of the back and the sleeves while the pants have no lining at all. Product code is HB-J20-014 for the jacket and HB-P60-014 for the pants.

Damn I have really fallen behind on updating the fabric code spreadsheet. Need to get on that.

 

[davidlee388]

Like Ivwri, I've also received this a few days ago. Keen to share too



YYPH SS09 Look 11 Lace Insert Blazer ( HV-J37-043 ) - BNWT, size 2, 100% medium weight cotton, very black. 2B closure, buttoned down notch lapels, 3B non-working sleeves. Half-body and sleeves lined in cupro. Sharp silhouette ( suit collection ), 2 pockets, removable studded shoulder pads, back vent. Best bit features exquisite black floral lace pattern on front panels ( 95/5 cotton/nylon ). Although they look see-thru, they are actually lined in thin clear silk on the inside. Bonkers construction, perfect fit. Elegant, boundary pushing.

YYPH SS09 Look 8 Pleated Pants ( HV-P30-010 ) BNWT, size 2, same cut as the Look 15 pants. 73/26/1 cotton/ramie/polyurethane blend. Dry hand but thin fabric. Huge, high waist and very baggy. Hems have been tailored as turn-ups. 2 back button flapped pockets, 2 buttons knee pockets on side.

YYPH AW05 LS Tee ( HN-T59-063 ) 100% cotton, size 1, lovely neckline

CDG H+ belt, Y-3 Hejarklack Hi-tops.

 

[Ivwri]

That jacket is really cool. I have been looking at picking up something with lace patterns from Yohji and the one with the lace on the back was top of the list. Does the lace pattern look a little more subdued in person?

 

[davidlee388]



That jacket is really cool. I have been looking at picking up something with lace patterns from Yohji and the one with the lace on the back was top of the list. Does the lace pattern look a little more subdued in person?

The one with lace at the whole back ( Look 12 ) was exhibited at V&A, beautiful and quite long and very likely not lined. The red and blue layering piece are equally striking.

Yes the pattern is subdued Ivwri, that's why I bought it though, I'm a discreet kinda Yohji wearer....most of the time. Black is the new black for me haha. It's subtle cos the buttonholes and buttons have to be sewn on cotton panels. Plus its not see-thru, that clear silk lining is blink and you miss it type but very exquisite, Yohji-san's attention to details. The tag says USD 2130, insanely dear ( I only paid a very small fraction ). SS09 full of very highly and cleverly constructed pieces.

 

[Arche]

I'm keeping an eye out for Yohji trousers on the Japanese auction sites, but I'm a bit puzzled by the sizing. I'm hoping that those of you with more experience of YYPH and Y's sizing might be able to help me out. My only previous first hand experience with Yohji trousers was a pair that came with a Y's suit. The suit was labelled medium, but the pants were very generous at the waist. I can't fit into anything less than a 32 inch waist, and these were more like 35 or 36 inches. On the other hand, I've seen a number of size 3 and M trousers on Yahoo Japan that seemed to have waist measurements of 30 inches or less. I'm a bit unsure how to interpret the measurements they are giving. Is it standard on these sites for people to give the measurement around the waist, or from one side to the other when the trousers are laid flat? Also, for someone who is 6 foot and needs a waist 32 inches or up, what size should I be aiming for both in the old S, M, L sizing, and the numerical system?

 

[stadsvandringar]

Yohji sizing over time is not particularly consistent. In some cases the S, M and L sizes are actually fitted in the waist, especially with Y's, where a medium is approx. 30 inches. The more recent numbered sizing is a bit more consistent, although the 2s and 3s can range between 32 and 36 inches or so in my experience. Pour Homme pants tend to run oversized. Basically, the best way to go is to check the individual measures of the pieces you're interested in, or try them on. Usually, with the oversized pants they're intentionally large and meant to be worn with suspenders or a belt.

 

[Auburn]

I think I am about your size, so as far as the number sizing goes I tend towards size 4 and above, while for letters I feel safest with L and larger. Of course if the measurements work out for "smaller" sizes go for it!

 

[davidlee388]

Of all the YYPH/Y's pants I have, only one perhaps fit my waist to the inch. All the rest are oversized ( in length as well, just roll them up ). Those professional Runway models ( 6 foot or above ) are skinny and yet they must wear size 3/4 and the waist definitely doesn't fit them. Belts and braces are Yohji stable accessories.

 

[Ivwri]

Agree with everything that has been said already on the matter of sizing for pants Arche. If you are 6ft tall, I would advise you just pick up L/4 in pants. If measurements show that a 3 would fit you as well (like on one size garments or if that's the only size available or maybe you want a more cropped fit) then you can definitely pick those up as well.

Thanks for the extra info on the lace pieces david. We wear quite a bit of lace in Nigeria (particularly where my mum is from) so I have a few lace outfits that I wear as part of traditional outfits so was wondering how it would be to own something that featured the pattern and cut out but melded with the typical Western suit. I wish more menswear designers in Nigeria would take a cue from Yohji as he does quite a few things that would be great inspiration for merging typical Nigerian wear with more Western designs.

 

[davidlee388]

Thanks for the extra info on the lace pieces david. We wear quite a bit of lace in Nigeria (particularly where my mum is from) so I have a few lace outfits that I wear as part of traditional outfits so was wondering how it would be to own something that featured the pattern and cut out but melded with the typical Western suit. I wish more menswear designers in Nigeria would take a cue from Yohji as he does quite a few things that would be great inspiration for merging typical Nigerian wear with more Western designs.

You are welcome my friend. However the one you are keen on ( Look 12 ) is very rare and I have never seen in Y! auctions. The one I just got ( also rare ) is from the Gilt Sale ( 99% certain ). So someone perhaps on SZ or SuFu will have one to sell in future so keep searching in those.

Also if Nigerian designers are to take a cue from Yohji they may have to charge lots for them as well like he did. I examined the piece and the construction standard is amazing even when judged against other YYPH stuff. Detachable studded shoulder pads? This is a first in my wardrode

 

[Ivwri]

Another thing I am definitely keeping my eye out for is a black wool gabardine blazer with slightly cropped sleeves. I think I remember reading somewhere that some older Yohji jackets tended to have shorter sleeves...not sure where I saw that. The cotton jacket I picked up from wire just made me realise how much I actually like that. Also interested in 3/4 sleeves as well.

And yeah I agree about them having to charge higher prices to keep up with the construction, but they already charge ridiculous prices for stuff anyway. What I would consider a pretty normal suit goes for $1500 over here with some designers - and to my untrained eye, even though the fabrics are nice, the construction is nothing special (not to mention most of the time they cut the suits pretty tight on their clients, most designers here are really just bespoke outfits).

Anyway, since I was supposed to have started this a while back and hopefully it will convince others to contribute as well...my top YY pieces .

My first post is on these -
HP-P20 -100
100% wool gabardine pants from A/W11

These are my first wool gabardine pants from Yohji, the first YY piece I ever bought from a flagship store and probably my favourite pair of Yohji pants. They are also the one item that sold me completely on Yohji. When I tried them on in the store I felt like a different person to the one that walked in (and I walked in basically in full Yohji - AW11 cotton high-waisted pants - which I adore as well - and a white YY shirt!).

Extremely versatile with a great drape, perfect taper, double pleating at the top and a wonderful elongated rise, these pants are one of my most worn Yohji pants. They have raw seams on the edges of the pockets - two side pockets and two back pockets - and were paired with the shirt/jacket hybrid on the runway of the A/W 11 show from what I can see. The waist has this very cool pleating arrangement so that when the oversized waist is cinched in by a belt, they create a beautiful pattern above the belt that is best shown off against a white tee or plain white shirt tucked in. It also works very well against a black t-shirt as an extra detail that's only spotted on a second or third look. What could have been a very straightforward pair of black pants are elevated to pride of place in my wardrobe for their subtle yet great construction, great details and expertly judged cutting

The rear view is also very nice as the elongated rise works with the tapering leg to create a unique shape that is best viewed from behind. I have gotten quite a few compliments from people whenever I walk in front of or past them and they notice the back of the pants. The raw seam edged back pockets are the clincher on the deal. If I wasn't married, these would be the pants I would wear out whenever I wanted to look hot and sexy on a night out. Toss on a white shirt, leave it un-tucked and I would be good to go

And now, for pictures

Pardon the close-up shots, pants are in need of a good brushing

Spoiler: Fit pics

 

[davidlee388]

Very nice pants Ivwri and very detailed descriptions as well. In fact you should wear them more especially that you are married, your wife is surely worth the " hot and sexy " look when you are out together haha.

Yohji has stayed true to his oversized silhouette with his pants over the years even his blazers/coats have gotten slimmer in cut recently ( let's not debate about that again guys, just my opinion ).
His pants are indeed very nicely constructed, in fact I am now after a pair of plain black 100 gabardine trousers to pair with whatever at the top and shoes. I don't tend to look at those in auctions, shame shame....you can probably tell I'm kinda attracted to Runway pieces

 

[Ivwri]



Very nice pants Ivwri and very detailed descriptions as well. In fact you should wear them more especially that you are married, your wife is surely worth the " hot and sexy " look when you are out together haha. 

Yohji has stayed true to his oversized silhouette with his pants over the years even his blazers/coats have gotten slimmer in cut recently ( let's not debate about that again guys, just my opinion ).
His pants are indeed very nicely constructed, in fact I am now after a pair of plain black 100 gabardine trousers to pair with whatever at the top and shoes. I don't tend to look at those in auctions, shame shame....you can probably tell I'm kinda attracted to Runway pieces 

Haha! Indeed. They do get a good reaction from the missus .

I also have the same problem looking for black pants. Very difficult for me to tell what they are like in auctions so I will only pick them up if others are selling them on here. I generally trust the taste of most of the guys on here for example so if someone was selling a pair of pants and mentioned that they were awesome I would believe them .

I'm also attracted to runway pieces so we definitely see eye-to-eye there . Trying to get more staples in the wardrobe though.