Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review

[BostonHedonist]

OK here's pics of my Addisons since I cleaned them up a while back. One thing you will note is they have lightened back up. As I said before boot oil will darken it a bit but over time as it dries the color lightens back up. Another thing to keep in mind is all vegetable tanned full aniline leather darkens (includes Chomexcel which is both Chrome and vegetable tanned) over time. The lighter the color of the leather the more pronounced this will be. I've seen natural and tan colored leather turn a deep golden brown after decades of use. Obviously the darker the color the less pronounced this will be.
More scuffs, more mud and water but still going strong. I said I was going to take pics during yesterday's dig but I was too busy digging.

Side view. I'm thinking the right foot toe box is darkening faster because of all the "toe digging" I do. Most of my field boots show the same sorta thing.

My basic dig kit. Good boots, a Filson shell bag, a Saddleback satchel and some light digging tools. In the satchel is a camera, notebook and pencils, a knife or two, Surefire flashlight, cell phone and of course a pistol. The easy pickings on this site has been done. Now you have to dig to find anything or wait for a gully washer rainstorm to find anything. Four hours of digging and I managed to find some hammerstones, a grind stone, some broken points and so on. Anyways....
As everyone already knows I wear or use all of this stuff in the field and I do not baby any of it. Whatever the weather or conditions when it's time to go it's time to go. All I do is maintain this stuff in a manner fitting to how I use them.

Maybe next time I'll have someone with me and can get some pics of boots in action.

You're like the rugged, mountaineering, tree-winching Jeep driver that inspires us leisure city folk to buy the SUVs that we then keep waxed, polished and mud free. Thanks for the validation.

 

[requiem123]

Can you tell me who? I just purchased a pair there.

I would also like to know, seriously considering getting a pair. Anyone have any experience with both the LL Bean Katahdin and the Wolverine 1000 mile boots? if I was a 8.5 in the Katahdin's what would I looking at in the Wolverine's?

Thanks in advance and thanks for this great thread, I'll be happy to contribute with pictures and thoughts when I finally get a pair. Speaking of which, any places other than eBay and Revolve clothing (30% off) I should be looking at to get a deal on these boots? I'm down in Australia so shipping is usually around $50, so that really limits my choices.

 

[requiem123]

Delete this

 

[Crane's]



 
You're like the rugged, mountaineering, tree-winching Jeep driver that inspires us leisure city folk to buy the SUVs that we then keep waxed, polished and mud free. Thanks for the validation.

I guess that's a good thing though I really never looked at it like that.

 

[requiem123]

Delete this

 

[seer]

According to the Wolverine blog you should use cream/dressing on the soles of your boots to help preserve the leather. Has anyone tried this?

http://www.wolverine.com/US/1000mile/blog/post/2011/06/30/1000-Mile-Boot-Care-7c-New-Worn.aspx

 

[BostonHedonist]

Get a hold of Wolverine. It's been reported that they'll send you laces. Supposedly one of these days they'll package 'em and have them for sale.

Called them up. Got Zack, their 1000 Mile specialist. He's sending out a free replacement pair of laces today. Good stuff.

According to the Wolverine blog you should use cream/dressing on the soles of your boots to help preserve the leather. Has anyone tried this?

http://www.wolverine.com/US/1000mile/blog/post/2011/06/30/1000-Mile-Boot-Care-7c-New-Worn.aspx

Definitely recommended. The leather soles can get eaten up by pavement, especially if it's wet out. I ended up going with a rubber half sole that matched the heel lift. In my opinion, it completed the boots. Also look up Crane's method for applying sno-seal and give them a good saturating. I used Obenauff's LP myself. Makes them damn near indestructible.

 

[seer]

Definitely recommended. The leather soles can get eaten up by pavement, especially if it's wet out. I ended up going with a rubber half sole that matched the heel lift. In my opinion, it completed the boots. Also look up Crane's method for applying sno-seal and give them a good saturating. I used Obenauff's LP myself. Makes them damn near indestructible.

Yes, I think I'm going to do the rubber sole. But I think I remember the Crane guy saying never to use cream/dressing on the soles.

 

[BrianMendoza]

Quote:

Yes, I think I'm going to do the rubber sole. But I think I remember the Crane guy saying never to use cream/dressing on the soles.

I went with Vibram rubber half soles on both my 1000 mile boots, and I will do it to every 1000 mile boot I purchase from here on out. My cobbler's been able to do it for dirt cheap and within a couple hours. They've turned out perfect both times.

Many on here will argue whether it's really necessary or not, which will come down to opinion. But it's a fact, not an opinion, that when the time comes, it's a lot cheaper and quicker to replace a half sole ($20-$30), versus having to resole the shoes (sometimes $100+), which can take a bit of time depending on the cobbler.

I'm not sure what Crane's said about using dressing on the soles, but I can't imagine it being a terrible idea either way... I didn't have any local stores that carried Montana Pitch Blend or Obenauf's LP, but I heard from another member that Red Wing's All Natural Leather Dressing is quite similar to Montana Pitch Blend. So I went to the local Red Wing store to check it out, and it had the same indredients: Pine Pitch, Beeswax and Mink Oil. So I bought it, 4oz for only $9, and tried em out on both my brown and black 1000 miles and I think the product is great. I was worried the mink oil was going to darken the **** outta my brown pair, but I see hardly any difference. If you're having a hard time finding MPB or Obenaufs near you, I definitely suggest Red Wing's Leather Dressing. All the Red Wing stores keep a good stock of it on hand.

 

[cbfn]



I guess that's a good thing though I really never looked at it like that.

I notice that you hike in your 1000's, are they really that comfortable on long walks? Can they beat boots from Ecco and etc.? I have my share of knowledge about regular dress shoes, but I'm totally blank on hiking boots.

 

[Dayman]

According to the Wolverine blog you should use cream/dressing on the soles of your boots to help preserve the leather. Has anyone tried this?

http://www.wolverine.com/US/1000mile/blog/post/2011/06/30/1000-Mile-Boot-Care-7c-New-Worn.aspx

Yeah, before I got my Obenauff's LP to use on them I put cream on them, but I haven't in a while since I mean to take them in for rubber like Brian posted.

 

[Crane's]



I notice that you hike in your 1000's, are they really that comfortable on long walks? Can they beat boots from Ecco and etc.? I have my share of knowledge about regular dress shoes, but I'm totally blank on hiking boots.

Yes they are very comfortable on long walks and on gentle grades. (Grades 1 and 2) With the addition of half soles you get plenty of traction on the steeper grades. (Grades 2 and 3) Grade 3 hiking IMO is more like climbing. If what I'm doing is mostly Grade 3 or up I'll wear my pair of custom Limmer mountaineering boots. Those boots you linked to is what I call a mainstream outdoor boot. I've owned my fair share of them over the years and like anything else some were very good boots and others were junk. I personally do not buy this type of boot anymore because they can't be resoled. I kill soles quickly thanks to the razor sharp obnoxious chert scree that seems to be everywhere around here. It's also the reason why all my boots are now leather instead of Cordura or Cordura/leather.

Add Filson boot oil to your list along with Wolverine's boot oil. The Wolverine oil is a pine pitch mink oil blend. The Filson boot oil does not have mink oil in it which I prefer.

 

[BrianMendoza]

Quote:

Add Filson boot oil to your list along with Wolverine's boot oil. The Wolverine oil is a pine pitch mink oil blend. The Filson boot oil does not have mink oil in it which I prefer.

I agree with Cranes on mink oil, although my reason might be different. I mentioned how I used Red Wing's leather dressing the other day, which is very similar to both Montana Pitch Blend and Obenauf's LP. They're all good waterproofing products, but what I learned about them is that the mink oil in them leaves your boots with a matte finish, and a very slight oily feeling to them.

This dull look was something I didn't know about before buying it, so I thought I'd throw my two cents out there for those who are considering buying it. I wasn't to keen on the matte finish, or stickiness, so I used Red Wing Conditioner instead. It's got "beeswax and other natural oils in it" but it doesn't contain mink oil, so it leaves your boots with a nice luster. It will still give you water repellency, but not as much as it would with mink oil in it. I'm not a fan of shiny shoes, and now, apparently not a fan of matte/dull shoes, but Red Wing conditioner and other conditioners that don't contain a lot of mink oil (Saphir Renovateur, AE Conditioner, etc) will give you a nice finish.

 

[cbfn]

Thanks for the answer Crane's! Yeah, I don't own that exact pair, they all look the same IMO and have junk leather, but my pair are quite comfortable on long walks. I LOVE your tan Addison and they are easily going to be my next pair for hiking and casual walking.

 

[ADDIC]



Quote:

I went with Vibram rubber half soles on both my 1000 mile boots, and I will do it to every 1000 mile boot I purchase from here on out. My cobbler's been able to do it for dirt cheap and within a couple hours. They've turned out perfect both times.

are you located in california? my cobbler is cool but im looking for a cheaper place.