What do you wear with your shell cordovan?

[BlueMoonMonday]

I'm new to styleforum. I've been reading up on quality shoes and that includes shell cordovan. My questions is what do YOU wear with your cordovan?

I ask because I wear business casual and it seems a better fit for suits (like with a Royal Imperial Shoe). But I'm open to a better understanding. Tell me what you like to wear it with.

BTW I have seen sneakers and lots of casual footwear but please, educate me.

 

[JFWR]

It depends on the shoe/boot.

Shell cordovan is used for almost every style around.

Wearing shell loafers would work with your business casual, but probably not black cap toe oxfords.

I wear my shell cordovan shoes with suits, sports coats/trousers, and with more casual or night time wear.

What do you define as bc? Polos or button downs with khakis?

 

[pasadena man]

Versatility is one of the numerous reasons I am willing to pay the premium for cordovan. I wear it with my suits, sports coats, chinos and denim.


The depth, texture, and frequently greater mass of cordovan allows it to complement the rough texture of denim.

You mention Florsheim Royal Imperials. The legendary vintage 93605's are an excellent entry point for high quality cordovan. They were made in the USA for 30 years (from about 1957-1988) so they are plentiful. You can get a quite wearable pair for $200ish (versus $700 + for comparable new LWB’s from Alden or AE).

And one of the nicest things about cordovan is that it lasts forever. My 93605’s were manufactured in 1981, are still in regular rotation, and I expect that they may outlast me.

 

[BlueMoonMonday]

Versatility is one of the numerous reasons I am willing to pay the premium for cordovan. I wear it with my suits, sports coats, chinos and denim.


The depth, texture, and frequently greater mass of cordovan allows it to complement the rough texture of denim.

You mention Florsheim Royal Imperials. The legendary vintage 93605's are an excellent entry point for high quality cordovan. They were made in the USA for 30 years (from about 1957-1988) so they are plentiful. You can get a quite wearable pair for $200ish (versus $700 + for comparable new LWB’s from Alden or AE).

And one of the nicest things about cordovan is that it lasts forever. My 93605’s were manufactured in 1981, are still in regular rotation, and I expect that they may outlast me.

Thanks for the reply. So you wear a burgundy colored (Cordovan colored?) 93605 with Jeans? Khaki's? Slacks? I keep picturing suits, but maybe I'm lacking imagination.

By the way I picked up a NOS brown Royal Imperial from 1971 (how is that possible??) a week ago that I love. So maybe I'm looking for an excuse to expand my options.

 

[BlueMoonMonday]

It depends on the shoe/boot.

Shell cordovan is used for almost every style around.

Wearing shell loafers would work with your business casual, but probably not black cap toe oxfords.

I wear my shell cordovan shoes with suits, sports coats/trousers, and with more casual or night time wear.

What do you define as bc? Polos or button downs with khakis?

BC for me is a nice button up shirt with jeans or Khaki's (or similar). I sometimes add a jacket for important meetings.

 

[JFWR]

BC for me is a nice button up shirt with jeans or Khaki's (or similar). I sometimes add a jacket for important meetings.

Okay.

Shell loafers seem like the best bet. Shell boots would probably be too casual.

You could also think about some shell derbys if you want laced up.

Shell oxfords, even full brogues, would probably not work.

You could go for a classic shell long winged blucher.

 

[RSS]

I wear shell cordovan mostly in winter ... with everything from khakis to suits ... just depends on the style of the shoe.

Pasadena Man is right ... they last. I have some Alden loafers and plain toe bluchers from the 70's. These have been resoled perhaps once each. But, I probably don't wear them more than once a month. Maybe twice.

I like what JFWR says about shoe styles.

 

[JFWR]

Versatility is one of the numerous reasons I am willing to pay the premium for cordovan. I wear it with my suits, sports coats, chinos and denim.


The depth, texture, and frequently greater mass of cordovan allows it to complement the rough texture of denim.

You mention Florsheim Royal Imperials. The legendary vintage 93605's are an excellent entry point for high quality cordovan. They were made in the USA for 30 years (from about 1957-1988) so they are plentiful. You can get a quite wearable pair for $200ish (versus $700 + for comparable new LWB’s from Alden or AE).

And one of the nicest things about cordovan is that it lasts forever. My 93605’s were manufactured in 1981, are still in regular rotation, and I expect that they may outlast me.

The shell cordovan royal imperials were made in the USA till 1999. I have a pair of nos florsheims from then and they're miusa.

The lwb is a really versatile style that works with casual up to at least sports coat with nice trousers.

That being said, I'd recommend elevating your (Bluemoonmonday's) look with a nice sports coat/blazer so all these shoes would look better with the better outfit. I'd not suggest oxfords with jeans in shell.

I mean, to me, the best options for what you're describing is gonna be loafers or lwb in shell.

 

[pasadena man]

Thanks for the reply. So you wear a burgundy colored (Cordovan colored?) 93605 with Jeans? Khaki's? Slacks? I keep picturing suits, but maybe I'm lacking imagination.

By the way I picked up a NOS brown Royal Imperial from 1971 (how is that possible??) a week ago that I love. So maybe I'm looking for an excuse to expand my options.

The best known cordovan in the world is from Horween in Chicago. What is often referred to as "burgundy" cordovan, as used by Alden, and AE I believe, is Horween's color # 8. Vintage Florsheim cordovan is Horween. Horween cordovan has its own cult (of which I am a devout, dues paying, member).

Yeah, I will wear 93605's with anything. they are bluchers rather than oxfords. They are massive shoes, often referred to as "gunboat" long wing brogues (LWB's). They have a significant sculptural presence, and cordovan works very well with denim to my eye. People notice them in a positive way, even if they don't quite know what cordovan is. I've never had someone look askance or question my wearing them with jeans. I also wear suede LWB's with jeans. I have calf LWB's, which I will wear with slacks, but rarely with jeans.

I would echo what JFWR and RSS say above; the most versatile first choice would probably be cordovan loafers. Alden LHS (Leisure Hand Sown) are arguably the gold standard here, although AE aficionados probably would not agree.

That said, I bought my 93605's before I got the Alden LHS, and wear the Florsheim's more frequently, but I just have a jones for LWB's.

 

[BlueMoonMonday]

My new favorites. Very versatile. They only needed new laces, as they were so short I could barely tie them and to have the sole stitching cleaned as is was almost black. It's so handsome with the contrasting stiching. My first impression was how massive and heavy they are, wow.

Now I'm looking for more to add to my options which is what prompted the original question.

 

[JFWR]

View attachment 1707913 View attachment 1707914
My new favorites. Very versatile. They only needed new laces, as they were so short I could barely tie them and to have the sole stitching cleaned as is was almost black. It's so handsome with the contrasting stiching. My first impression was how massive and heavy they are, wow.

Now I'm looking for more to add to my options which is what prompted the original question.

Since you have the LWB, then unless you're not a loafers kind of guy (like me), I'd go with loafers with your wardrobe. My two other suggestions, if you want some more options, would be a plain toed blucher, or a split toed derby. You can get all these styles in cordovan.

Some guys here are oxfords only go with suits, but I say oxfords go with jackets, so unless you're going to start wearing jackets and nice trousers, you don't need oxfords. But if you do want to start wearing jackets, or even better suits, more often, then get a nice pair of oxfords. But you can just hold off for now and see how your style changes now that you're going to be wearing nicer shoes.

I'm thinking loafers would suit your sensibilities and the requirements of your job, especially as loafers can go with jeans and be worn in warmer months.

 

[BlueMoonMonday]

Interesting. I had considered a Löf & Tung Francisco Armagnac Cordovan loafer. I have tried loafers in the past, but currently have none. I was also looking for a split toe Blucher, likely not cordovan.

My role is in IT and technology but going forward I will be interacting with higher level folks including some at the C-level. I'd like to both reflect my role but not be trapped in it. Suits every day wouldn't make sense but I'm open to approaching this the right way.

 

[mak1277]

Have you upgraded the rest of your wardrobe? Seems to me that would be the first step, not buying expensive shell shoes.

If you're wearing jeans and chinos a lot, I'd personally prefer suede over shell. Just my opinion, but it fits the vibe better and has the benefit of being substantially less expensive.

 

[pasadena man]

Business casual is a subdued canvas to work on. I enliven and personalize it primarily through watches and shoes. Cordovan is my favorite material choice in the latter category. I always feel a little dressed up, without necessarily stand outing (not my objective).

 

[BlueMoonMonday]

Have you upgraded the rest of your wardrobe? Seems to me that would be the first step, not buying expensive shell shoes.

If you're wearing jeans and chinos a lot, I'd personally prefer suede over shell. Just my opinion, but it fits the vibe better and has the benefit of being substantially less expensive.

You make a good point. I am looking at everything I wear.