UPDATE: (Posture and rushed pics vs.) First bespoke suit - please critique

[the.chikor]

Originally Posted by Despos

It is a nice shade of grey.

Wow Chris-this sure clears things up!

 

[reidrothchild]

Originally Posted by TRINI

Chris Despos already did that.

That's kinda my point. All other negative posts thereafter seem to have been motivated only by the hater instinct and were not really helpful to me. I don't necessarily have a problem with snark and hate on an internet forum--it seems snark and hate are the primary fuels for internet forums--I suppose I was just a little confused by all the posters who made comments about all the noobs (I fall into that category) who were too stupid to see how awful the suit was without explaining what they found so objectionable.

 

[GucciKid]

I'll refrain from commenting on the suit in the original post but I can say that I myself have had terrific results with using Don at Trend.

And for anyone who has some experience with Don personally, and as a craftsman, the suggestion that Don would cut corners or deliver a product that he or the customer wasn't satisfied with is very far from how seriously Don takes his work.

As you can see with the "watch-cuff" in the original post, Don does allow for a lot more quirky styling and input than I think most tailors would. With Don the process is very collaborative between tailor and customer.

Here is another example of Don's work http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...=104594&page=3 - if you scroll down to Mustapha's post.

I can really only speak from my own experience, but I have to say that Don continues to make me beautiful, well fitting clothing that I am very happy with.

 

[sonlegoman]

Originally Posted by reidrothchild

I get that you and other senior members think the suit is awful; however, for the benefit of junior members such as myself and the OP, be articulate enough to explain what is technically wrong with the suit and what can be done to improve it or future commissions. I don't claim to have the expertise of a trained tailor, so I have no problem with anyone who doesn't think the suit fits particularly well. But if most of you got your "senior" status by making thousands of posts of the quality I've seen in this thread, I'm quite certain your SF veteran status is meaningless, and you should not place so much stock in it.
I think it has already been said what is wrong with the normal aspects of the suit such as the arm length, shoulder, trousers, bigness of armscye. Unfortunately, the cutaway features is what the OP decided he wanted to be most noticed. If that's the case, he got his wish. He's a flashy guy. Had those features not been included, we'd be talking about buttoning point, shoulders, sleeve length, etc. I think the ratio of commentary about funky cutaways: actual fit is about correct for such a suit. Big risks usually result in big explosions.

Originally Posted by reidrothchild

That's kinda my point. All other negative posts thereafter seem to have been motivated only by the hater instinct and were not really helpful to me. I don't necessarily have a problem with snark and hate on an internet forum--it seems snark and hate are the primary fuels for internet forums--I suppose I was just a little confused by all the posters who made comments about all the noobs (I fall into that category) who were too stupid to see how awful the suit was without explaining what they found so objectionable.
It should help you to learn not to do what OP did. If you want to learn, check out WAYWRN thread. Much better pics there.

 

[reidrothchild]

Originally Posted by sonlegoman

I think it has already been said what is wrong with the normal aspects of the suit such as the arm length, shoulder, trousers, bigness of armscye.

Unfortunately, the cutaway features is what the OP decided he wanted to be most noticed. If that's the case, he got his wish. He's a flashy guy. Had those features not been included, we'd be talking about buttoning point, shoulders, sleeve length, etc.

I think the ratio of commentary about funky cutaways: actual fit is about correct for such a suit.

Big risks usually result in big explosions.



Gotcha.

Originally Posted by sonlegoman

It should help you to learn not to do what OP did. If you want to learn, check out WAYWRN thread. Much better pics there.

Yeah, I've been using some WAYWRN as inspiration for further additions to my wardrobe. Great resource.

 

[TheWraith]

Burn that shirt NOW!

 

[Antedote]

Well,

I'm glad that SF members have had the decency to critique the suit with the reserve and tact that typically dominates the forum. You'll be glad to know that:

1. I'm still alive and non-defenestrated.
2. I didn't burn anything. Neither did my mother, who absolutely hated the suit, cuff, and probably me from this point on.
3. I'm still responding, a whole day after I posted the pics, seeing as I've been working until now :O
4. It wasn't a joke. But hey, thanks for trying to give me the benefit of the doubt, I know you actually meant that well. Really. I'm actually not being sarcastic.

As far as the gimmicks go, BB and hidden pockets are subtle, and I don't think have anything to do with taste, they relate to function, which for me are key. I actually have to WEAR it, and thus things like keys, phones, wallets, and such have purpose. Watch cuff was an experiment, and will likely not be worn together with the suit, more on its own. I don't know about how 3-piece suits are typically worn, and maybe I'll care at some point, but being slavishly tied to rules isn't my plan, nor is impressing a proportion of the population that I will likely never have the taste and dedication to impress. The colour is fairly conservative, which was why I felt I could go a little more eccentric on the details.

Thank you, truly, for the comments on the fit. I've never had a suit fit well, even altered, so I truly appreciate the feedback, particularly on the arms and trousers. My weight tends to fluctuate a fair bit, as when I had tried on the suit at the last fitting, there wasn't a single pull on the back, and barely anything around the waist. I'll bring (some) of the feedback to Don, and see where we go from here. I'll take the snark if it leads to more useful feedback, and even pretend that some of it was clever.

Really, it was. You should be proud of yourselves. I'm sure you even have syndication in your future, as clearly someone should recognize your sartorial excellence and razor wit. No doubt, you are truly forum prodigies

-A

 

[ruben]

Suit aside, the shirt collar seems a little flat to me.

 

[sonlegoman]

How old is OP? Bespoke is something you gotta ease into. Maybe try MTM first. Maybe this was MTM? Or buy properly fitting OTR and get adjustments made until you know more about what you want and how things should fit before going into MTM or bespoke.

Without the waistcoat and shirt, the suit will be mistaken for OTR and you will probably look like the rest of the world. Maybe the pants are slightly better than the rest of the population.

 

[MTLGuy]

Originally Posted by Antedote

Well,

I'm glad that SF members have had the decency to critique the suit with the reserve and tact that typically dominates the forum. You'll be glad to know that:

1. I'm still alive and non-defenestrated.
2. I didn't burn anything. Neither did my mother, who absolutely hated the suit, cuff, and probably me from this point on.
3. I'm still responding, a whole day after I posted the pics, seeing as I've been working until now :O
4. It wasn't a joke. But hey, thanks for trying to give me the benefit of the doubt, I know you actually meant that well. Really. I'm actually not being sarcastic.

As far as the gimmicks go, BB and hidden pockets are subtle, and I don't think have anything to do with taste, they relate to function, which for me are key. I actually have to WEAR it, and thus things like keys, phones, wallets, and such have purpose. Watch cuff was an experiment, and will likely not be worn together with the suit, more on its own. I don't know about how 3-piece suits are typically worn, and maybe I'll care at some point, but being slavishly tied to rules isn't my plan, nor is impressing a proportion of the population that I will likely never have the taste and dedication to impress. The colour is fairly conservative, which was why I felt I could go a little more eccentric on the details.

Thank you, truly, for the comments on the fit. I've never had a suit fit well, even altered, so I truly appreciate the feedback, particularly on the arms and trousers. My weight tends to fluctuate a fair bit, as when I had tried on the suit at the last fitting, there wasn't a single pull on the back, and barely anything around the waist. I'll bring (some) of the feedback to Don, and see where we go from here. I'll take the snark if it leads to more useful feedback, and even pretend that some of it was clever.

Really, it was. You should be proud of yourselves. I'm sure you even have syndication in your future, as clearly someone should recognize your sartorial excellence and razor wit. No doubt, you are truly forum prodigies

-A

Good attitude. Seriously.

About the BB pocket - I also wear suits and carry a BB on a regular basis. Why don't you just put it in your inside breast pocket?

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by Antedote

Well, I'm glad that SF members have had the decency to critique the suit with the reserve and tact that typically dominates the forum. -A
My response was the same as if you asked me to critique a restaurant or a movie. Tried to provide some objective points that you could address with your tailor. You are not an easy fit. You are very trim but have "monster" shoulder blades and shoulders and it looks like you lift or played a lot of sports. I'm curious of what stage the jacket was in the very first time you tried it on? Was the lining sewn in, was the collar and sleeves finished? You commented that the jacket is too long but you preferred this length. That is about the only thing that looks correct to my eye. I suggest looking at the proportions. You have a big neck, big shirt collar, big tie knot and narrow lapels. It doesn't jive. The lapel width makes your shoulders and neck look wider. There's no balance. The gorge is too high and makes the collar look too skimpy for the size of your shoulders and chest. Also curious of how and where the suit will be worn, for business or just social occasions?

 

[hymo]

I actually have had all the suits/jackets I have bespoken up on this forum for critique. With my latest suit, I took it a step further: I included pics from each fitting, trying to get as much input as possible. I thought about them then decided what needs to be changed then communicated these to the tailor. (http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=194812) Obviously, 90% of the comments were from people with less knowledge and with a cruder sense of aesthetics than I have. But sometimes something in the comments seems true to you. I have had changes made based on the comments. I plan to put pics of my next suit up. I need the feedback.

 

[GBR]

Troll comes to mind.

Originally Posted by Antedote

Well,

I'm glad that SF members have had the decency to critique the suit with the reserve and tact that typically dominates the forum. You'll be glad to know that:

1. I'm still alive and non-defenestrated.
2. I didn't burn anything. Neither did my mother, who absolutely hated the suit, cuff, and probably me from this point on.
3. I'm still responding, a whole day after I posted the pics, seeing as I've been working until now :O
4. It wasn't a joke. But hey, thanks for trying to give me the benefit of the doubt, I know you actually meant that well. Really. I'm actually not being sarcastic.

As far as the gimmicks go, BB and hidden pockets are subtle, and I don't think have anything to do with taste, they relate to function, which for me are key. I actually have to WEAR it, and thus things like keys, phones, wallets, and such have purpose. Watch cuff was an experiment, and will likely not be worn together with the suit, more on its own. I don't know about how 3-piece suits are typically worn, and maybe I'll care at some point, but being slavishly tied to rules isn't my plan, nor is impressing a proportion of the population that I will likely never have the taste and dedication to impress. The colour is fairly conservative, which was why I felt I could go a little more eccentric on the details.

Thank you, truly, for the comments on the fit. I've never had a suit fit well, even altered, so I truly appreciate the feedback, particularly on the arms and trousers. My weight tends to fluctuate a fair bit, as when I had tried on the suit at the last fitting, there wasn't a single pull on the back, and barely anything around the waist. I'll bring (some) of the feedback to Don, and see where we go from here. I'll take the snark if it leads to more useful feedback, and even pretend that some of it was clever.

Really, it was. You should be proud of yourselves. I'm sure you even have syndication in your future, as clearly someone should recognize your sartorial excellence and razor wit. No doubt, you are truly forum prodigies

-A

 

[Merlino]

Originally Posted by GBR

Troll comes to mind.

If this is a troll, it's gotta be the most elaborate one I've ever seen. Just think about it: he decided to troll SF, went out to seek a bespoke maker in Toronto, decided on which features to troll with, decided on how bad he wanted to fit to be so he could troll some more, paid Xk CD$ for the suit, made pictures, posted them online and responded with a dead serious message to continue teh trolling.

Best troll evah!

 

[Antedote]

Originally Posted by Despos

My response was the same as if you asked me to critique a restaurant or a movie. Tried to provide some objective points that you could address with your tailor.
You are not an easy fit. You are very trim but have "monster" shoulder blades and shoulders and it looks like you lift or played a lot of sports.
I'm curious of what stage the jacket was in the very first time you tried it on? Was the lining sewn in, was the collar and sleeves finished?
You commented that the jacket is too long but you preferred this length. That is about the only thing that looks correct to my eye.
I suggest looking at the proportions. You have a big neck, big shirt collar, big tie knot and narrow lapels. It doesn't jive. The lapel width makes your shoulders and neck look wider. There's no balance.
The gorge is too high and makes the collar look too skimpy for the size of your shoulders and chest.
Also curious of how and where the suit will be worn, for business or just social occasions?


Hi Despos,

Yours was easily the most helpful and objective post of the entire thread, so I hope you don't feel guilty about picking the suit apart, as my sarcasm was more directed towards the editorializing. Apparently, I've even convinced people that I'm a troll. Sounds like a little projection to me, but maybe that's the work talking

I'll try to answer the questions systematically:

1. I do lift (less than I used to), but my shoulders are still much wider than usual for my waist size, particularly at the overarm measurement. I actually wanted the suit to accentuate that, rather than minimize it, as would be a more traditional suit, because amazingly enough, I'm happy with the way I look, and don't feel I should have to make myself look more dumpy to satisfy the traditional drop 6 aesthetic. The execution, however, seems like it's off from what I had intended.

2. Sleeves weren't finished at the first fitting, only attached at the third, where I mentioned I was concerned about the way they were hanging. He may have made the armholes larger because I was complaining about not having enough movement in my arms.

3. I definitely agree about the lapel width, they seem narrower than what I had intended, perhaps because they have a roll to them now, rather than sitting flat? I wanted a wider lapel precisely because I wanted the neck, larger tie knot, and wide shoulders to appear in balance.

4. This suit is most certainly not for business, I need to carry my laptop around all day, and a jacket isn't practical for that. I'm actually going to be wearing it mostly with just the vest and pants, though may likely wear it as a two-piece for more formal events.

5. Someone had mentioned about my stance, and that might have a lot to do with the problems, as I usually slouch more. I definitely remember the back at least looking clean in the shop, and my partner and I had both noted that it seemed to fit worse in the light of the pictures than before, possibly because of friction between the cuff of the shirt and the suit jacket (it was getting caught). Can't explain everything, but might account for some of the discrepancy between what I remembered from the fitting, and what I saw in the pics.

Thanks again for the feedback, and happy (well, maybe?) to face the trolls in order to pick out some of the more useful objective observations. As much as I'm disappointed that my impression was so far off, I'd rather learn from this than wear Emperor's clothing gladly. For me, I want to hear about:

1. Fit - anything, this is my most pressing concern, so this is what I'd like to bring back to my tailor.
2. Balance - somewhat less
3. Style - significantly less, my own aesthetic is likely highly divergent and still in its childhood.
4. Your unmitigated hatred of the watch cuff/cutaway/gimmicks - not at all, but if it makes you feel better, I'm glad if it makes you feel better about yourself. Seriously, no sarcasm.

-A