Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[TweedyProf]

Having been steered away from Fox Flannels, for some of the reasons mentioned above regarding how it tailors (and perhaps price), I'm back to Minnis flannels. Looking for a mid grey and a light grey. Anyone have a specific recommendation from the flannel book?

Also suggested alternatives to flannels that you have used and like (14 oz range)? A robust twill/whipcord, mid grey?

 

[bdavro23]

Having been steered away from Fox Flannels, for some of the reasons mentioned above regarding how it tailors (and perhaps price), I'm back to Minnis flannels. Looking for a mid grey and a light grey. Anyone have a specific recommendation from the flannel book?

Also suggested alternatives to flannels that you have used and like (14 oz range)? A robust twill/whipcord, mid grey?

There is a lovely twill in the Holland and Sherry Dakota book that I had made up earlier this year. I use them as a slightly more casual, slightly more versatile alternative to flannel.

 

[bamboo]

Having been steered away from Fox Flannels, for some of the reasons mentioned above regarding how it tailors (and perhaps price), I'm back to Minnis flannels. Looking for a mid grey and a light grey. Anyone have a specific recommendation from the flannel book?

Also suggested alternatives to flannels that you have used and like (14 oz range)? A robust twill/whipcord, mid grey?

@kolecho was running re-issue of old spec mid grey Minnis flannel.

Dakota book's cavalry twill is nice and drapes well but not so warm. I like whipcord from Dormeiul's natural series, which is more sturdier.

 

[bamboo]

Man, I don't want to sound like a total whiner, but what happened to Fox's prices? I was thinking of posting one of my previous commissions in their photo competition and looked up the cloth I used. I paid £72 a meter and that same cloth goes for £140 now. I literally bought it 12 months ago.

I read some earlier comments about tailors not particularly being fond of working with Fox cloth, but I like the pieces I had made from their cloth and would consider buying again, if the prices were reasonable.

They decided demand curve is very price inelastic.

I speculate trade price (real volume range) not increased as much as retail or web price (which accounts for small portion of their business). I guess it is good for some tailors/garment makers as they can sell their final products at higher prices more easily by quoting very expensive retail cloth prices. It is a win-win situation for cloth merchant and garment maker.

 

[lordsuperb]

Having been steered away from Fox Flannels, for some of the reasons mentioned above regarding how it tailors (and perhaps price), I'm back to Minnis flannels. Looking for a mid grey and a light grey. Anyone have a specific recommendation from the flannel book?

Also suggested alternatives to flannels that you have used and like (14 oz range)? A robust twill/whipcord, mid grey?

Harrison's flannel / Harrison's cashmere overcoat book for whipcord

 

[smittycl]

I choose scents only depending on the season (cold/warm) and time of the day (day/night). I'm not an advanced player, so to say.

Same here. Season and day vs. night.

 

[smittycl]

Anyone have experience with clothes containing a large percentage of synthetic material? I'm about to receive a jacket from a cloth that is roughly 80% cotton and 20% polyamide. The cloth doesn't have any give to it, and it has the feel of a thick cotton gauze. Other summer open weaves (wool and silk) that I've had aren't particularly sturdy, and I'm hoping this one is. But I've never had a synthetic before (save for a pair of cotton corduroy trousers that I ordered without being aware that the fabric contained 1% nylon).

View attachment 1087085

I would avoid it like the plague as the saying goes. Best to go with a 100% wool fresco or a wool/linen blend. I have one cotton suit and it wears much hotter than my high-twist, unlined wool summer suits. 20% synthetic sounds like an awful fabric.

 

[smittycl]

Need a fabric recommendation. Thinking of commissioning a Double Breasted topcoat (just below the knees). Looking for something simple like Navy wool/cashmere blend. Softer, thick and able to hold its shape. Want to wear it over a suit.

@lordsuperb @TweedyProf

 

[Griffindork]

I would avoid it like the plague as the saying goes. Best to go with a 100% wool fresco or a wool/linen blend. I have one cotton suit and it wears much hotter than my high-twist, unlined wool summer suits. 20% synthetic sounds like an awful fabric.

Thanks - Already commissioned so it is a done deal. You think it is awful because it is too hot or for some other reason? I have no experience with synthetics.

 

[smittycl]

Thanks - Already commissioned so it is a done deal. You think it is awful because it is too hot or for some other reason? I have no experience with synthetics.

That much synthetic might indeed make it wear hot. I guess it depends on the quality if the cotton as well. It might also feel a bit plasticky.

 

[bdavro23]

That much synthetic might indeed make it wear hot. I guess it depends on the quality if the cotton as well. It might also feel a bit plasticky.

I too am a bit leery about synthetics, though Ariston has more than a few fabrics with low to high synthetic content. I don't own any personally, but I've seen a few made up and for the most part you would be hard pressed to identify the ones with synthetic mixes. With that being said, there is a reason natural materials are typically the best and I would generally opt for those if possible.

 

[lordsuperb]

Need a fabric recommendation. Thinking of commissioning a Double Breasted topcoat (just below the knees). Looking for something simple like Navy wool/cashmere blend. Softer, thick and able to hold its shape. Want to wear it over a suit.

@lordsuperb @TweedyProf

Harrison's Cashmere Overcoat book.

 

[smittycl]

Harrison's Cashmere Overcoat book.

Thanks! Hopefully I can find a blend. I have a single breasted cashmere overcoat from Sartorio. I love it but it's very soft and I want something a bit heavier. Does that book have blends as well?

 

[lordsuperb]

Yes.

 

[lordsuperb]

@smittycl

Spoiler: Harrison's