Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ericgereghty]

Maybe that’s the issue I had - it was a hot & humid day. I just remember being uncomfortable.

Realistically, unless your body tolerates humidity to an INSANE degree, any properly hot/humid east coast day feels terrible in tailored wear. I sweat walking about Manhattan in a barely buttoned linen shirt in August. You're never surviving those days in a suit without feeling/possibly looking a mess.

 

[lordsuperb]

It’s ok. I’ve only got 3 more blue suits in progress currently.

Why so many, what happened to the 3 piece grey tweed?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Why so many, what happened to the 3 piece grey tweed?

There’s a couple grey projects mixed in with stuff that’s ongoing and I’m contemplating a green project but I wear navy suits and pale blue shirts for work most days and it’s my wife’s favorite color on me so they’re an easy addition.

 

[JHWilliams]

What are peoples favorite classic navy suitings? Looking for a ‘work horse’ fabric in a mid weight (10-13oz).

My current navy suit is an older Drapers 5-star (now the SuperBio book) bright navy twill. The suit no longer works after some weight loss and I’ve always thought I made a bit of a mistake going for the lighter navy as opposed to the darker one. Although after revisiting the book darker one is quite dark on swatch in comparison.

Lighter Superbio against my old suit:
View attachment 2129637

Darker Superbio against my old suit:
View attachment 2129639

Currently I’m back and forth between Finmeresco SW4111 (navy) and SW4112 (dark navy) but open to other suggestions.

View attachment 2129643

View attachment 2129645

Was going to look at Botany and Oyster but was told that was more ‘winter’ suiting. But I haven’t completely ruled them out.

Any other recs out there (book and ref number) so I can start requesting swatches?

Dugdale English & Town Classics is a true “work horse” bunch. Definitely not for summertime. Darker navy suits are always appropriate and never go out of fashion.

Consider a separate commission for spring//summer in fresco, finmeresco, or another Panama weave.

 

[Concordia]

What are peoples favorite classic navy suitings? Looking for a ‘work horse’ fabric in a mid weight (10-13oz).

My current navy suit is an older Drapers 5-star (now the SuperBio book) bright navy twill. The suit no longer works after some weight loss and I’ve always thought I made a bit of a mistake going for the lighter navy as opposed to the darker one. Although after revisiting the book darker one is quite dark on swatch in comparison.

Lighter Superbio against my old suit:
View attachment 2129637

Darker Superbio against my old suit:
View attachment 2129639

Currently I’m back and forth between Finmeresco SW4111 (navy) and SW4112 (dark navy) but open to other suggestions.

View attachment 2129643

View attachment 2129645

Was going to look at Botany and Oyster but was told that was more ‘winter’ suiting. But I haven’t completely ruled them out.

Any other recs out there (book and ref number) so I can start requesting swatches?

I find the 4-ply Finmeresco (13oz) to be a bit problematic. More obviously Italian, with a slightly slippery feel that doesn't drape quite so firmly as the other weights. There is a 10oz twist which can be a little too glossy but is generally useful in warm weather. Then the older 3-ply, which holds up very well in heat and has decent substance.
If you want an open weave that isn't going to look silly in winter, the 10oz Fresco has some chalk stripes that are surprisingly flannelly looking. Not the most finesse, but an option.
For a more conventional 3.5-season fabric, Harrison's Frontier (10oz) is a good staple. I'd also be interested to look at Fox's Worsted Classics.

 

[Despos]

Yea! That’s right before I got this suit I’m replacing now and how I wound up with the Drapers 5-Stars!

That was back from when I was still new to paying attention to menswear and was more concern with quality (durability, make, etc.). While I still am concerned about that to some extent, I guess my new question (which probably wasn’t articulated well) is what are peoples favorite navy suiting references.

I think I just chose the first navy Drapers without thinking much and found it almost too bright…but I also don’t want something that a so dark that it’d only be good for business or funerals.

A while ago @Despos noted that SW4111 and SW4112 were his recommendations for the Finmeresco book and Paolo Martorano recently noted SW4111 was his “best seller”…which is why those are at the top of my list now. So I’m curious what other specific navy suiting references people like so I can get some swatches to compare them and make a decision for myself.

How about looking for a more interesting, less generic looking cloth for a navy suit? Something with a bit of texture or subtle nuance.
I seldom use the heavier weight Finmerresco or Ascot cloth. Clients prefer using the lighter weight for hot weather.

 

[classicalthunde]

How about looking for a more interesting, less generic looking cloth for a navy suit? Something with a bit of texture or subtle nuance.
I seldom use the heavier weight Finmerresco or Ascot cloth. Clients prefer using the lighter weight for hot weather.

I’m open to other ideas, do you have any recommendations?!

Mainly looking for a) something that can be used for a variety of events (from weddings and nights out to funerals and interviews), b) something that is hearty enough to last a decade, and c) would be relatively “timeless” or classic.

 

[SimonC]

I’m open to other ideas, do you have any recommendations?!

Mainly looking for a) something that can be used for a variety of events (from weddings and nights out to funerals and interviews), b) something that is hearty enough to last a decade, and c) would be relatively “timeless” or classic.

That’s a very wide range of bases. Personally I’d go for Dugdale Town Classics 9436 which is a navy pick and pick.

It has a little bit of interest and would be perfect for interviews (assuming you are aiming for a conservative profession), sufficiently respectable for funerals or weddings, and manageable on a night out. Although I worry that by trying to cover all those bases you are asking too much for a suit - especially the night out…

Notwithstanding, I have a navy suit from the same bunch which has done me well for over a decade and I suspect has been present at pretty much all of the occasions you mention.

 

[classicalthunde]

That’s a very wide range of bases. Personally I’d go for Dugdale Town Classics 9436 which is a navy pick and pick.

It has a little bit of interest and would be perfect for interviews (assuming you are aiming for a conservative profession), sufficiently respectable for funerals or weddings, and manageable on a night out. Although I worry that by trying to cover all those bases you are asking too much for a suit - especially the night out…

Notwithstanding, I have a navy suit from the same bunch which has done me well for over a decade and I suspect has been present at pretty much all of the occasions you mention.

Yea, I'm getting scope creep I guess trying to nail down a jack of all trades, master of all trades...but I do like the idea of throwing birdseyes and pick and picks into the mix.

 

[jonathanS]

How about looking for a more interesting, less generic looking cloth for a navy suit? Something with a bit of texture or subtle nuance.
I seldom use the heavier weight Finmerresco or Ascot cloth. Clients prefer using the lighter weight for hot weather.

I’d imagine, being in Dallas, a lot of your clients experience what I described with ascot. It’s too heavy for summer. It’s more of a Dallas (I say Florida) winter fabric than a hot summer day fabric.

 

[lordsuperb]

I’m open to other ideas, do you have any recommendations?!

Mainly looking for a) something that can be used for a variety of events (from weddings and nights out to funerals and interviews), b) something that is hearty enough to last a decade, and c) would be relatively “timeless” or classic.

Standeven Churchill

 

[hitsuji]

Oh, I missed the linen part. Spence Bryson and Moygashel in Northern Ireland probably supply the major houses, and deal directly as well. Otherwise, W Bill, Holland & Sherry. Get Irish linen >12oz. Italian stuff is made for a different market. And there is a new house in France that is amazing but only for jackets (or maybe suits if you want to look very untroubled).

Had just visited my tailor and he had a few w.bill linens laying around. One in a tobacco colour.. (the one on top is my preference) currently trying to get some ideas for the design for a “leisure trouser” maybe one inspired by the Hollywood trousers by Sexton.

 

[ppk]

Had just visited my tailor and he had a few w.bill linens laying around. One in a tobacco colour.. (the one on top is my preference) currently trying to get some ideas for the design for a “leisure trouser” maybe one inspired by the Hollywood trousers by Sexton.

Love that style.

 

[Concordia]

Had just visited my tailor and he had a few w.bill linens laying around. One in a tobacco colour.. (the one on top is my preference) currently trying to get some ideas for the design for a “leisure trouser” maybe one inspired by the Hollywood trousers by Sexton.

Traditionally a go-to source. No idea what they are like now, but a great place to look.

 

[067]

What are peoples favorite classic navy suitings? Looking for a ‘work horse’ fabric in a mid weight (10-13oz).

My current navy suit is an older Drapers 5-star (now the SuperBio book) bright navy twill. The suit no longer works after some weight loss and I’ve always thought I made a bit of a mistake going for the lighter navy as opposed to the darker one. Although after revisiting the book darker one is quite dark on swatch in comparison.

To my eye, the color of Fresco 510257 (10oz) appears to be quite close to such thing as "the quintessential navy" and has been serving me as a benchmark for navy colors: I hold cloths right next to Fresco 510257 and compare the colors of the cloths against the color of Fresco 510257 to see "how far away" (how much brighter/darker) these colors are from "standard navy".