Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[hitsuji]

150£ for both lengths, correct?

Imo, that’s more than fair / reasonable. That’s a good price.

As long as you like the fabric

Yup both. It’s a mid gray so I have a life time for trousers (4 pairs)

 

[jonathanS]

Yup both. It’s a mid gray so I have a life time for trousers (4 pairs)

I don’t think you’ll get 4 pairs of trousers from that. I haven’t asked but I’ve been told around 1.4 meters for a pair of trousers.

The photos look almost black. You can get 2 jackets or a suit for sure.

 

[hitsuji]

Yup that’s just me taking a poor picture with bad lighting
You’re right actually, my tailor only uses 1.1m for a trouser so he can possibly fit 2 trousers and a jacket (1.8m) in the other length

I don’t think you’ll get 4 pairs of trousers from that. I haven’t asked but I’ve been told around 1.4 meters for a pair of trousers.

The photos look almost black. You can get 2 jackets or a suit for sure.

 

[camez_]

hope to get this funded end of year - 430g merinowool

 

[ZRH1]

I am not sure AdL is the best choice, for a casual coat certainly, but the softness of Italian linen might not hold a crease well. This being said, the feel of it, as with Maison Hellard, is beautiful and on the other side of the spectrum, WBill linen appears more formal due to the lack of texture.

I want to have a linen suit made (MTM - I want it soon). From everything I've read, Solbiati Art du Lin seems like the right choice and I'm looking at midnight blue, tan linen, or beige. Is there a way to get swatches mailed or any other way to feel the swatches?

ot

 

[ppk]

I am not sure AdL is the best choice, for a casual coat certainly, but the softness of Italian linen might not hold a crease well. This being said, the feel of it, as with Maison Hellard, is beautiful and on the other side of the spectrum, WBill linen appears more formal due to the lack of texture.

ot

Thanks for the post.

I have continued to do research and decided on WBill. I have ordered swatches from Kemp and Hewitt (US distributors).

 

[ericgereghty]

FWIW, I have found AdL trousers pretty (and surprisingly) good at holding a crease.

It's linen, so you're going to see creasing (you can call it rumpling if preferred, it's the same thing lol), but my AdL trousers have resisted and/or shaken them out better than I would have anticipated

 

[bourbonbasted]

I ordered a jacket in this washed-out green herringbone. It's definitely on the unique side but I feel the color resolves to a grey-green and the mossy flecks lend a subtle pop. We shall see.

View attachment 2134807

An update. Big fan of the cloth. The hand is super nubby and the color resolves almost more grey-brown than green at distance, which creates a cool effect. A great casual summer jacket.

 

[Rowqk777]

Hi everyone, any suggestions for cloth for a double breasted suit with a ‘finer’ texture - more towards the formal end. Preferably in a mid grey - pick n pick or plain.

I heard about the QX2 collection from HFW.

And the following:

- drapers superbio?
- harrisons botany
- oyster bunch

Any others worth looking at? Many thanks

 

[camez_]

H&s intercity or city of london
Standeven Churchill or British classics
Scabal British classic
Fox worsted wool

 

[tim_horton]

Hi everyone, any suggestions for cloth for a double breasted suit with a ‘finer’ texture - more towards the formal end. Preferably in a mid grey - pick n pick or plain.

I heard about the QX2 collection from HFW.

And the following:

- drapers superbio?
- harrisons botany
- oyster bunch

Any others worth looking at? Many thanks

I’m a fan of Smith Woollens - both the Botany and the (discontinued) Blue Riband.

Second Holland & Sherry City of London as well.

 

[CLH03]

Hi all, interested in making a pair of trousers for a sports jacket I had made in standeven capetown bunch (navy mesh jacketing wool/mohair) - i was suggested the Fresco Lite (8/9oz) in a medium grey? How does this cloth hold up for a pair of single pleated trousers, performance wise? - for dressy summer occasions.

Or would it be a wiser decision to stick with Fresco, Crispaire, standeven explorer, dugdale tropicalair?

Would be great to receive your opinion.

Thanks

I’ll second the Standeven Explorer option, in the heavier, 310 g weight. Recently made a navy suit from this bunch, and I’m really enjoying it. Really crisp and does not wrinkle.

I know it’s a sin, but I wear it as a blazer w/ grey pants sometimes.

 

[tim_horton]

Hi all, interested in making a pair of trousers for a sports jacket I had made in standeven capetown bunch (navy mesh jacketing wool/mohair) - i was suggested the Fresco Lite (8/9oz) in a medium grey? How does this cloth hold up for a pair of single pleated trousers, performance wise? - for dressy summer occasions.

Or would it be a wiser decision to stick with Fresco, Crispaire, standeven explorer, dugdale tropicalair?

Would be great to receive your opinion.

Thanks

You can go heavier with trousers without running into overheating issues and trousers benefit more than jackets in using heavier fabric to hold a crease. I’d go with heavier open weaves for odd trousers.

 

[jonathanS]

Hi everyone, any suggestions for cloth for a double breasted suit with a ‘finer’ texture - more towards the formal end. Preferably in a mid grey - pick n pick or plain.

I heard about the QX2 collection from HFW.

And the following:

- drapers superbio?
- harrisons botany
- oyster bunch

Any others worth looking at? Many thanks

I like Dormeuil, although they keep lowering their quality. The Krono is now 10oz. But before it used to be great at 12oz. (Shameless plug: I have a navy nailhead of the former weight on buy & sell.)

 

[Concordia]

Standeven Escorial. And take a look at the Fox Worsted Classics.