Thomas Keller's Aioli

[moddey]

OK, so the hard core chefs (Manton, et al.) will laugh, but I've long had a complex about making aioli: I've used Julia Childs', Alice Waters' and Joel Robuchon's recipes (who has spare baked potato lying around?). Usually it works out ok, but sometimes, it doesn't solidify and I begin to get progressively more uncomfortable as the guests begin to fidget.

Well, just tonight I tried the recipe in Thomas Keller's "ad hoc at home." He basically says, "F*ck it, forget the whisk, use a food processor." Four egg yolks, 2 cups garlic infused canola oil, some lemon juice, salt, and voila: a damn good aioli. I have a feeling it may be foolproof.

 

[kwilkinson]

Egg yolk, garlic, oil, lemon juice, and salt does not make a Keller Aioli. It just makes an aioli.

 

[thekunk07]

i believe laura cunningham has tasted his aioli

 

[moddey]

Originally Posted by thekunk07

i believe laura cunningham has tasted his aioli

 

[why]

That's a lot of aioli. I've never really had a problem making it, but I have a problem putting it on foods because it feels like putting pretentious ketchup on everything. I've maybe had a few things where it actually worked with the food, and for the rest it might as well been in a squeeze bottle in the center of the table.

 

[moddey]

Originally Posted by why

That's a lot of aioli. I've never really had a problem making it, but I have a problem putting it on foods because it feels like putting pretentious ketchup on everything. I've maybe had a few things where it actually worked with the food, and for the rest it might as well been in a squeeze bottle in the center of the table.

yes, I agree: the recipe makes way too much, and we probably won't come close to using it all. Half went into a salad dressing also from the ad hoc book (that's why I made it). Of course, gf wanted me to just throw some hellman's mayo in instead. Will probably use it as a dip for some fritto misto over the next few days. I love delfina's aioli with their fritto stuff...always trying to replicate that. But will probably throw most of it out

I think halving the recipe might not work as the whole point of this post was just to say, forget the whisk, the food processor works great. two yolks wouldn't reach the blades prolly

 

[pabloj]

Originally Posted by moddey

... canola oil ...
Hopefully no Provençal will ever read this

 

[robin]

Originally Posted by pabloj

Hopefully no Provençal will ever read this
Keller uses canola oil for mostly everything, except when other fats or peanut oil make more sense (deep frying for example). He mentions in the ad hoc at home book that using olive oil for cooking is a waste of an expensive oil, or something like that.

 

[pabloj]

Originally Posted by robin

Keller uses canola oil for mostly everything, except when other fats or peanut oil make more sense (deep frying for example). He mentions in the ad hoc at home book that using olive oil for cooking is a waste of an expensive oil, or something like that.
So what? The experience lies in the flavour, and olive oil is part of it. Also, you might notice that aioli is not "cooked" (heated).

 

[why]

Originally Posted by robin

Keller uses canola oil for mostly everything, except when other fats or peanut oil make more sense (deep frying for example). He mentions in the ad hoc at home book that using olive oil for cooking is a waste of an expensive oil, or something like that.

I see his point for things like mayonnaise and such, but there's a sapid difference that overshadows the minuscule monetary difference between canola and olive oils for sauces like aioli.

 

[moddey]

I have to say, when I've used olive oil for aioli in the past, it comes out the color of the olive oil, i.e. green. The flavor of the olive oil has also been a bit overpowering. I like it with canola oil. I can see how purists would wince though. In Europe, the aioli I've had is often a deep yellowish orange color. I see this especially when I order fish soup. Anyone know what gives it this color?

 

[why]

Originally Posted by moddey

I have to say, when I've used olive oil for aioli in the past, it comes out the color of the olive oil, i.e. green. The flavor of the olive oil has also been a bit overpowering. I like it with canola oil. I can see how purists would wince though. In Europe, the aioli I've had is often a deep yellowish orange color. I see this especially when I order fish soup. Anyone know what gives it this color?
Mustard and egg yolks.

 

[Douglas]

Originally Posted by why

That's a lot of aioli. I've never really had a problem making it, but I have a problem putting it on foods because it feels like putting pretentious ketchup on everything. I've maybe had a few things where it actually worked with the food, and for the rest it might as well been in a squeeze bottle in the center of the table.

I would have said pretentious mayonnaise, but I feel you.

I dunno, I like aioli and I've long been a fan of making it in the food processor. I have one of those mini-cuisinarts and it's perfect for the job. It even has a little baby hole in the lid that's perfect for funneling that little stream of oil in.

 

[why]

Originally Posted by Douglas

I would have said pretentious mayonnaise, but I feel you.

I needed something more banal.

 

[Douglas]

Originally Posted by kwilkinson

Egg yolk, garlic, oil, lemon juice, and salt does not make a Keller Aioli. It just makes an aioli.

Actually, now that I have mastered aioli Keller's way, and plain baked chicken with nothing, Keller's way, tonight I am going to be making a ham sandwich, Keller's way. According to Keller, the secret to a great ham sandwich is to use two pieces of bread and put ham in between them. In a stroke of genius, he also suggests putting cheese in the sandwich. Brilliant!