The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[g2x222]

How much can a pair of trousers be taken in?

I purchased a cotton double-breasted DOPPIAA suit off Yoox (aka gambling) in size 46 (EU). The jacket fits fairly well; however, the trousers are huge! They're also labeled 46, but the waist measurement is more like 35". I measure about 31"

I don't mind fuller thighs, as I plan to wear this fairly casually, but obviously the waist and seat need to taken in, at minimum.

Is this feasible?

 

[gimpwiz]

I don't think 35" to 31" is really doable / worth doing. I usually hear two inches as about the limit of what tailors want to do.

 

[bde]

Can pants with an elastic waistband be taken in? I got some ikiji pants in a size 2/M, but they are still a bit too big for me.

 

[Timmers]

View attachment 1992427
Hello, I would appreciate any advice on how to refine my trouser measurements. This was my first go as custom work from Luxire. I'm looking to get better drape, more in line with the second image. I know I need to go with a heavier fabric, but how should the measurements be adjusted? So far I'm thinking having the trousers come up to my natural waist and adding room in the seat and thigh to eliminate the pulling in the groin. I'd appreciate any advice and feedback.

Wool will automatically make the drape better than what I assume to to be cotton trousers. Heavy cotton won't get the same drape. More fullness as you've indicated, higher rise (natural waist, around the naval), and a sharp crease should do the trick. Leg opening looks okay. Make sure you adjust the length when increasing the rise, and I'd go a touch longer in the leg length regardless. I'd wager it'd be difficult to achieve the 2nd image through Luxire.

 

[Despos]

How much can a pair of trousers be taken in?

I purchased a cotton double-breasted DOPPIAA suit off Yoox (aka gambling) in size 46 (EU). The jacket fits fairly well; however, the trousers are huge! They're also labeled 46, but the waist measurement is more like 35". I measure about 31"

I don't mind fuller thighs, as I plan to wear this fairly casually, but obviously the waist and seat need to taken in, at minimum.

Is this feasible?

It’s a bit unclear what the jacket and trouser size is at present.
46 EU would translate to a 36 chest in the USA. Trouser waist is 35. Is that 35”?

reducing the trouser by 4” requires recutting, not altering. You have to determine how much the seat has to be reduced too.
Recutting means you reduce the front panel as well as the back part.
To do this either the fly or the front pockets have to be removed and remade. Big job to do but the only way to get a good result. Finding someone to do this is equally hard. Alteration shops don‘t want labor intensive work like this.
Be sure the tailor has the expertise of how trouser patterns are made and proportioned to get the recut done properly. Often recuts come out too tight because the tailor doesn‘t calculate the amount of ease necessary over the hips to be comfortable.

 

[Despos]

Can pants with an elastic waistband be taken in? I got some ikiji pants in a size 2/M, but they are still a bit too big for me.

Take them to a tailor and ask. Can’t say without seeing them. Elastic waist is easier to make but harder to alter.

 

[Despos]

View attachment 1992427
Hello, I would appreciate any advice on how to refine my trouser measurements. This was my first go as custom work from Luxire. I'm looking to get better drape, more in line with the second image. I know I need to go with a heavier fabric, but how should the measurements be adjusted? So far I'm thinking having the trousers come up to my natural waist and adding room in the seat and thigh to eliminate the pulling in the groin. I'd appreciate any advice and feedback.

Best not to experiment with cotton cloth. Use wool. Post more pictures. We need to see the side and back view.
this trouser length is very short for the width at the hem. Would look a lot better with the trouser at least touching the shoe. This cotton will probably shrink some after laundering and could be a problem to lengthen. Need to allow for that in the measurements.

 

[g2x222]

It’s a bit unclear what the jacket and trouser size is at present.
46 EU would translate to a 36 chest in the USA. Trouser waist is 35. Is that 35”?

reducing the trouser by 4” requires recutting, not altering. You have to determine how much the seat has to be reduced too.
Recutting means you reduce the front panel as well as the back part.
To do this either the fly or the front pockets have to be removed and remade. Big job to do but the only way to get a good result. Finding someone to do this is equally hard. Alteration shops don‘t want labor intensive work like this.
Be sure the tailor has the expertise of how trouser patterns are made and proportioned to get the recut done properly. Often recuts come out too tight because the tailor doesn‘t calculate the amount of ease necessary over the hips to be comfortable.

Yes, the sizes you mentioned are correct - 46EU/36US jacket with 35” pants (labeled 46EU). I have to guess the pants were a mistake at the factory.

As with many Yoox deep-clearance purchases, it was made on a whim. It’s a well-made suit and quite a good deal, but I bought it for fun/more casual usage, and it’s probably not worth the hassle/expensive of extensive tailoring work. Back to Yoox it goes…

 

[classicalthunde]

weird question - is it possible for an alterations tailor to turn flap hip pockets into jetted hip pockets?

 

[Despos]

weird question - is it possible for an alterations tailor to turn flap hip pockets into jetted hip pockets?

It is a piped/jetted pocket, just remove the flap.

 

[hysteria]

Hi there,

With several of my trousers, I encounter two issues where I don't understand the fit mechanics well enough to diagnose the issue and what needs to be done to fix it.
1. Diagonal wrinkles around the front pockets
2. Wrinkling around the rear area between the back pockets and the side-adjusters.

I'll share a few photos to demonstrate the issue.

The brown fresco and flannel patterns belong to the same pattern. Red highlights issue # 1 with wrinkles in the front. Green highlights issue # 2 with wrinkles between the back pockets and side-adjusters.

The grey trousers are a different pattern with a slightly wider pelvis volume.

Moving forward, what adjustments can I make for MTM/MTO orders to avoid these issues?

Looking for some suggestions on this

 

[MrImpractical]

Any insight on the maximum amount trousers can be taken in if properly recut? Currently wearing a 42 waist, but have in the past fit a 36. On the off chance I slim down that much in the future, should I bet on replacing them? I wear a very wide, straight leg cut if that’s relevant.

 

[Shetterd]

What is the purpose of a dart/cut under the lapel? I have quite a strong chest and a tailor recently said it might help the lapel lie flatter.

 

[Shetterd]

What is the purpose of a dart/cut under the lapel? I have quite a strong chest and a tailor recently said it might help the lapel lie flatter.

Apparently Steven Hitchcock calls this a dog cut? Though I might be confusing my terms here. Would appreciate any insight into the way this works @Despos et al

 

[Despos]

Any insight on the maximum amount trousers can be taken in if properly recut? Currently wearing a 42 waist, but have in the past fit a 36. On the off chance I slim down that much in the future, should I bet on replacing them? I wear a very wide, straight leg cut if that’s relevant.

Replace them