Suit guidance and Hong Kong thoughts

[Doug Mich]

My first post

I have been reading a bunch of posts and really appreciate the information you all provide. I am hoping you can answer some questions I have not been able to answer by reading posts.

I found the post on the GQ article on how to buy a suit. Any additional info you can point me to? Is there a post or website that shows examples of some of the things you all seem to know, such as how a notch lapel looks versus a point lapel? Also, how to pick a material. The GQ post did not have the original pictures and I could not find it on the GQ site. I also read the great article on fully canvased versus partial canvased, etc. Any more articles like this would be appreciated.

I am headed to Hong Kong Friday for 9 days and would like to have a suit and some shirts made. I know this has been discussed at length here, and I have read every post I can find. The consensus (may be too strong of a word for the diverse opinions here) appears to be that WW Chan is great if you are willing to pay $1100+ USD, Peter Lee is also great and somewhat lower priced, and that if you want to spend any less, don't bother. The latest mentions I found put Peter at 5k HK or so, for "standard" materials. From what I have read, I don't think I need fully canvased and I will buy material from the tailor. Am I in the ballpark on Peter's costs? Also, is this the correct Peter Lee - http://www.leebaron.ca I saw a post where someone ended up at Peter Li instead of Peter Lee.

Empire International Customer Tailors Ltd, Kowloon, was mentioned very positively in a couple New York Times columns, and sounds somewhat less expensive than Peter. Anyone ever use them? The NYT mentions may mean they are overrun and raised prices. The NYT article put them at (Shop No.6, Ground Floor, Houston Center, TST East, 63 Mody Rd, Hong Kong Phone: (+852) 2723 2673).

Any other mid-priced (i.e. 5k HK or below) tailors that you can recommend? There appears to be agreement to avoid Sam's and Raja. After reading here, I realize that the positive mentions I have found elsewhere are likely shills.

For shirts, looks like you all like Peter. Some liked Jantzen, others seemed to hate them. I found this post for

Edward Italian Tailor, Shop No.117, 1/F, Regal Kowloon Hotel, 71 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Perhaps not a great value by Styleforum standards, but a good alternative to Jantzen for those willing to pay a touch more for good, reliable, and fast service. Edward's experienced enough at measuring that he'll likely get things right on the first try. Shirts are 350 HKD and up. The selection of basic fabrics appears to my untrained eye to be of good quality, but it is limited, and he's not excited about customers bringing their own.

Any other suggestions?

My wife will be with me and would like to have a couple items made. Same tailors, or any other suggestions?

Finally, can I just walk into Peter's on day one and start looking at materials, or do you need to schedule an appointment.

Thanks in advance! My apologies if I missed any posts that are directly on point.

Doug

 

[F. Corbera]

Just go to the Armoury and have them dress you according to your budget, or buy some accessories and chat them up about things en scene.

 

[TheTukker]



Just go to the Armoury and have them dress you according to your budget, or buy some accessories and chat them up about things en scene.

+1; terrific advice.

 

[GBR]

The tailors of note in Hong Kong are WW Chan. Gordon Yao and Y William Yu. Various people have expressed themselves content with others. I do not recall Empire International Customer Tailors Ltd being mentioned here are would positively avoid anywhere of this ilk that get a mention in a newspaper, quite often the reporter has received a free or cheap suit in return for anticipated favourable publicity.

 

[Doug Mich]

Thanks for the Armoury suggestion. The online suit pricing seems to start above Peter Lee's prices. Do they have a wider range in the store? I assume these are OTR. Is there an advantage to the Armoury compared to US sellers of OTR?

 

[budgiesmuggler]

Its Gordon yao, not Gordon yap

If you want a bespoke suit go to gordon, chan or lee. Don't waste your money anywhere else.

Shirts to to ascott Chang. They make some of the best shirts in the world and are reasonably priced

 

[TheTukker]



The tailors of note in Hong Kong are WW Chan. Gordon Yap and Y William Yu. Various people have expressed themselves content with others. I do not recall Empire International Customer Tailors Ltd being mentioned here are would positively avoid anywhere of this ilk that get a mention in a newspaper, quite often the reporter has received a free or cheap suit in return for anticipated favourable publicity.

Just to be clear: it's Gordon Yao - affiliate here - and you may also add Baroman and Ah-man.

 

[GBR]



Just to be clear: it's Gordon Yao - affiliate here - and you may also add Baroman and Ah-man.

Apologies, my mistake.

 

[F. Corbera]



Thanks for the Armoury suggestion.  The online suit pricing seems to start above Peter Lee's prices.  Do they have a wider range in the store?  I assume these are OTR.  Is there an advantage to the Armoury compared to US sellers of OTR?

The three guys who run the place strike me as really nice guys, and also are knowledgable enthusiasts or professionals. Their shop is very smart and would seem to be a great place to start when visiting Hong Kong...chatting with them will probably give you a very good idea of where to go next if what they carry is not for you because of style, schedule or price.

This way of approaching things while traveling seems more fun than trying to decide things before arrival.

 

[ballmouse]

Shirts to to ascott Chang. They make some of the best shirts in the world and are reasonably priced

I've certainly heard Ascot Chang is top notch for shirts, but they cost ~$200 USD (±$30) and might be out of the OP's budget.

 

[TheTukker]



Apologies, my mistake.

Just to be clear: that was no critique directed at you of course, especially as you generously share your HK knowledge here; just wanted to make sure the OP could find GY. They have a helpful affiliate thread here with lots of pics of their work (am not a customer myself).

 

[dragon8]



I've certainly heard Ascot Chang is top notch for shirts, but they cost ~$200 USD ([COLOR=222222]±$30) and might be out of the OP's budget.[/COLOR]

They start at $130 and go up from there

 

[ballmouse]

Quote:
Ah, sorry about that then. You can probably disregard my number as I probably got my number from the Thomas Mason fabrics.

 

[connor09]

The tailors of note in Hong Kong are WW Chan. Gordon Yao and Y William Yu. Various people have expressed themselves content with others. I do not recall Empire International Customer Tailors Ltd being mentioned here are would positively avoid anywhere of this ilk that get a mention in a newspaper, quite often the reporter has received a free or cheap suit in return for anticipated favourable publicity.

I've heard of WW CHan, G. Yao, Hiras, but I haven't heard of Empire International.

 

[dragon8]



Ah, sorry about that then. You can probably disregard my number as I probably got my number from the Thomas Mason fabrics.

But the better patterns and fabrics start close to there