Suit Fitting Help Request

[stylemaster69]

Hello,

I am thinking that it fits mostly well and feels comfortable. I am also thinking that I should take up the sleeve length and jacket length. I am also considering adding additional waist suppression.

However, I came here to seek an experts opinion on how this suit fits, and things I can change to make it fit better. Any input would be much appreciated.

 

[stylemaster69]

double

 

[ThomGault]

The sleeveheads look like they extend past your shoulders, the lapels look too wide (how wide at the widest point?), the button stance looks too high (which exacerbates the short lapels), and the gorge is a bit low. How much room between your chest and the jacket? Maybe its a size too big, but even a different size won't help the lapels and gorge.
Does the jacket length covers your butt? It's hard to tell. If do, it's the right length (and jacket length is an attribute which shouldn't be altered much.)

 

[thesilentist]

The suit looks to be a size too big based on the shoulders and what appears to be excess in the chest.

The other "design" aspects TG touched on I also agree with. The pants also seem a bit more full than most would want to wear these days, but YMMV.

 

[stylemaster69]

First off thank you for the help.

It is interesting that you both believe that the buttons are too high. I noticed that something in that regard seemed off. But is it possible that the jacket being too long, gives the illusion of high buttons? The jacket covers the rear and then some, approximately an inch. I've read mixed reviews about shortening jacket lengths. Those in agreement with Thom stating that it shouldn't be altered much. any additional input in this regard?

Also maybe what I was seeing as the need for waist suppression, is actually the need to take in the upper bod, or chest, of the suit more. When I get home, I will look at how much excess room is between my chest and jacket. I've also read mixed reviews on the limits of this type of alteration. Any input in this regard?

The shoulders, to me, fit well. I've tried a decent amount of suits and I am difficult to size perfectly. A size down is more too small than this size is too large. My deltoids (?) stick out an inch or two further than my shoulders.

As far as lapels go, I will have to measure them when I get back home. But to my inexperienced eye, they do not look bad.

 

[ThomGault]

Stand a couple inches away from a wall with the wall facing your side. Slowly lean your shoulder toward the wall---does your shoulder touch the wall at the same time as the suit? That's the general strategy I've seen to gauge correct sleeve size. If it IS the right size, you'll possible want a tailor to alter the sleevehead...It's not particularly cheap/easy, but it can remedy the way the shoulder seam flexes away from your shoulder.
Get the shoulder and chest to fit well off the rack, and your half-way to getting a well-fitting jacket. Of course, gorge, lapel width, and button stance can't be altered, sooooo...

 

[stylemaster69]

To follow up. I measured the lapel at the widest point perpendicular to where the lapel folds over to be 3.5"

When I do the wall test my triceps then deltoid then shoulder pads hit on sequential order.

You may be correct about the sleeve head needing adjustments. When I stand at a reladed position with my arms slightly bent towards my midline the sleeves fall in a streamline elegant manner.

 

[ThomGault]

When I do the wall test my triceps then deltoid then shoulder pads hit on sequential order.

Does the suit fabric itself touch the wall before your shoulder? or at approximately the same time?And...shoulder pads? That might be the problem How big are they?

 

[stylemaster69]

I believe the fabric hits first. Does that mean that the sleeve width is too large? This test is difficult to distinguish without a second pair of eyes. However, when I look at the shoulder I can see and feel that my shoulder sticks out further than the pad itself. The pad seems large. Approximately 1" in height and about 1/8 to 1/4" past the sleeve head.

Are these things that can and in my situation should be altered;

Upper body suppression taken in below arms?

Maybe sleeves tapered in from shoulder down to hand?

Sleeve length shortened?

Maybe shoulder pad reduction?

~1" length of suit shortened?