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Suede Chukka Boot Suggestions

DcDrape

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Hi everyone,

looking at purchasing a pair of suede chukka boots this winter and find myself a little unsure about where to get them from. I think I have decided that a darker brown will be more versatile than a snuff suede but I am very hung up on last shape.

I recently ordered a pair of Meermin chukkas and they were way off mark with my expectations. For one, the size did not fit anything similar to other Meermin shoes I own and I felt that the last shape was just too chiseled to be worn more casually.

Does anyone have recommendations as to last shapes and how versatile they might be? I may be off point thinking they were too chiseled but I will primarily be wearing with dark denim and a sweater/sport shirt if that helps. I also worry about swinging too far the other way with a wide rounded last shape as to look too bulbous and bulky with slim cut jeans.

Thanks in advance for any advice!
 

The Dirty Pigeon

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When I was looking for some good suede chukkas almost ten years ago, I was also concerned with getting a good shape that wasn’t too wide or round (like Clark’s) but didn’t want to go too far into something that was shaped like a sleek dress shoe. By chance, I was in Northamptonshire, England for work and tried chukkas from almost all of the well known English shoemakers. They all seemed a little “off” to me. When I got home to the US, I ended up with the basic Alden dark brown 1492 unlined chukka (Leydon last, I believe). In photos, it seemed too round at the toe but when I tried them on, I realized that they looked perfect. I wear them with slim straight jeans, smart casual outfits and they look spot on. To me, they don’t look to dressy or precious, nor do they look clunky and round. Very versatile. And, they’ve been going strong for almost ten years now.
 
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DcDrape

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When I was looking for some good suede chukkas almost ten years ago, I was also concerned with getting a good shape that wasn’t too wide or round (like Clark’s) but didn’t want to go too far into something that was shaped like a sleek dress shoe. By chance, I was in Northamptonshire, England for work and tried chukkas from almost all of the well known English shoemakers. They all seemed a little “off” to me. When I got home to the US, I ended up with the basic Alden dark brown 1492 unlined chukka (Leydon last, I believe). In photos, it seemed too round at the toe but when I tried them on, I realized that they looked perfect. I wear them with slim straight jeans, smart casual outfits and they look spot on. To me, they don’t look to dressy or precious, nor do they look clunky and round. Very versatile. And, they’ve been going strong for almost ten years now.
This is super helpful!!!

I was actually looking at the C&J Chiltren chukkas and that feeling of them being too round but the Tetbury comes off online as way too sleek. Does you pair of Aldens have leather soles?
 

The Dirty Pigeon

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Does you pair of Aldens have leather soles?

Ah yes, my Aldens have leather soles. I'm not sure if they offer a Vibram style sole but that would be pretty cool.

BTW, the C&J Chiltern looks a lot like a three eyelet version of the Thursday Boots chukka. I'm certain that the quality between the two are leagues apart but the shapes are similar. I have some of the Thursday Boots chukkas and they wear more round and casual than the Alden.

The Tetbury looks too dressy to me.
 
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DcDrape

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Ah yes, my Aldens have leather soles. I'm not sure if they offer a Vibram style sole but that would be pretty cool.

BTW, the C&J Chiltern looks a lot like a three eyelet version of the Thursday Boots chukka. I'm certain that the quality between the two are leagues apart but the shapes are similar. I have some of the Thursday Boots chukkas and they wear more round and casual than the Alden.

The Tetbury looks too dressy to me.
Got it, yeah the vibram or some type of rubber soles would be key for winters here in the midwest.

I was also looking at the sid mashburn chukka boots but always have some reservations about purchasing shoes from a clothing company just due to the lack of visibility to the manufacturer along with perceived price markup (valid or not). I put the image below for reference.
1638914963730.png
 

Phileas Fogg

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The 348 last that the Tetbury is built upon is a bit sleek and perhaps not to everyone’s taste. I have a pair and they suit me fine, but you would have to like it.

Alden’s 1492/3 boots’ leather soles are treated but it’s also unlined which may or may not be to your liking.

Oak Street Bootmakers offers a nice version with a Dainite sole and if you want to splurge there’s always Edward Green.
 

dieworkwear

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I've long thought that Loake's Kempton is one of the more versatile shoes on the market, especially for guys who are just getting into CM. Unfortunately, I think the company has discontinued the style. You may be able to find it on the second-hand market.

Sid Mashburn's chukkas look nice and I personally would trust any company they source. They are often fairly priced for the quality they offer.
 
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I've long thought that Loake's Kempton is one of the more versatile shoes on the market, especially for guys who are just getting into CM. Unfortunately, I think the company has discontinued the style. You may be able to find it on the second-hand market.

Sid Mashburn's chukkas look nice and I personally would trust any company they source. They are often fairly priced for the quality they offer.
What are your thoughts on C&J's Chiltern?
 

breakaway01

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I've long thought that Loake's Kempton is one of the more versatile shoes on the market, especially for guys who are just getting into CM. Unfortunately, I think the company has discontinued the style. You may be able to find it on the second-hand market.

The Loake Pimlico is still available. The toe is a bit more elongated than the Kempton but it does not come off as looking too sleek. Comes with a Dainite sole so it can be worn in winter in the Midwest -- I'm actually wearing them today in Michigan.
 

deca248

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Years ago, I too was on the market for some suede Chukkas; I tried several boots including the Crockett and Jones Chiltren. For me, the toe on the Chiltren was just a bit too wide and more importantly the welt was very pronounced very similar to the Church’s.

Personally, I prefer a sleeker shoe so I ended up with a pair of Ferragamo’s. Shortly after purchasing the Ferragamo’s I purchased two pair of Edward Greens (Shanklin) and a pair of John Lobb. Of the four pair I tend to gravitate towards the Edward Green boots the toe on the Edward Green are a little sleeker than the Ferragamo and a little wider than the Lobb. Of the four pair only the Lobb has a leather outsole, the other three have rubber soles.

Since I live in warm weather climate the unlined E.G.s serve me quite well. I would not recommend the E.G. or the J.L. for colder climate. The Ferragamos are leather lined with rubber outsoles which would be a better fit for colder weather.

Just my 2 cents….
 

dieworkwear

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If the OP wants to spend a bit more money, I also like Crockett & Jones Brecon.

I have a pair of Edward Green Banbury. I like them, but they are much more expensive than my Brecons and I can't say they're vastly superior.

I believe the Brecon only comes in country calf, but I may be wrong


The-Brecon-Chukka-Boot-in-Dark-Brown_5180_R_2683ea12.jpeg
 

deca248

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I too have a pair of C&J Brecon, i believe you are correct they are only offered in pebble grain. The Brecon' are a tough pair of boots; the storm welt design will serve you well in cold/wet weather conditions. I believe that for the money, one of the toughest chukka boots out there.

C&J makes some very durable shoes, i own several, and have enjoyed every last one of them.

BTW... I absolutely love the EG Banbury, i looked really hard at those before i purchased my EG Shanklin.
 

DcDrape

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If the OP wants to spend a bit more money, I also like Crockett & Jones Brecon.

I have a pair of Edward Green Banbury. I like them, but they are much more expensive than my Brecons and I can't say they're vastly superior.

I believe the Brecon only comes in country calf, but I may be wrong


View attachment 1717298
These look amazing. I am certainly considering C&J but likely would not go further into the EG range.

I wonder what your thoughts on a dark brown leather vs. dark brown suede. I generally gravitate towards brown leather with only owning suede loafers but am curious as to your thoughts on versatility when comparing the two leathers in a chukka boot.

Would also be curious on thoughts between the brecon and kew.
 

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