Rory Duffy: The Unmaking of a Coat

[dieworkwear]



I suppose it's all a matter of taste, but I meant slightly stale by contemporary standards -- not old-fashioned, and certainly not obsolete. Duffy's preferred cut (like many older Poole samples I've seen) tended to have a relatively low two-button stance, slightly bellied lapels, moderately roped shoulders with a clean sleevehead, a clean chest, and trim high-waisted trousers -- all of which (by his own admission) suggested a slight Carnaby Street flair. To be fair, the samples of his work I saw were overwhelming made for himself, and reflected his somewhat piratical personal style and lanky frame. I myself favor a more classic drape cut, and was always pushing Duffy to at least learn how to make it, which to his credit I think he did. (Although not in the coat featured in the series, which I deliberately asked him to make in his preferred style).

Maybe after going "full bull" on a tailor's work you never experienced, it's not such a good idea to go "full bear" on a coat you never received.

 

[dopey]



Good grief. Read my post again. The styling might not have been exactly what I prefer, but it's what a lot of guys like, and in any case what I was really excited about was showing the craftsmanship inside a coat, whatever its cut. Ultimately, Poole's -- and Duffy's -- philosophy is that the cut needs to serve the client.

Sorry. I was distracted by the contrast between your full on puffery when you were getting paid and your studied criticism when you weren't so I did not read your post enough times to understand how perfectly consistent it all is.

 

[David Reeves]

Has he moved to China?

 

[carpu65]

Asia.
China (maybe Hong Kong),Japan or Korea.
Is not impossible that back to some Savile Row firm,if does not make fortune in Asia.

 

[Cantabrigian]

I just read the OP again.

Is this threak just marketing for your new website?

Because that would actually be pretty smart.

 

[Cantabrigian]

Skirt on fleek, btw.

 

[emptym]

Am I the only one who thought the pirate comparison was a compliment?

 

[fassbinder]



II myself favor a more classic drape cut, and was always pushing Duffy to at least learn how to make it, which to his credit I think he did.

Interesting. How did he learn how to make a drape cut suit if he wasn't trained to do one at Henry Poole?

 

[unbelragazzo]



Interesting. How did he learn how to make a drape cut suit if he wasn't trained to do one at Henry Poole?

Maybe he found a video on the internet showing how to make a drape cut suit?

 

[lordsuperb]

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/02/to-drape-or-not-to-drape.html

Or maybe he read a book.....

 

[carpu65]

Skirt on fleek, btw.

A bit bold this strange Scottish outfit,but i like the cut more than that wooden two buttons.

P.S.
I'm the only to be a bit disgusted by the dirty nails of Rory in the videos?

 

[997CTSurg]

Nope, the dirty nails are totally disgusting to me.

 

[greger]



when you are exceedingly handsome, as I am, you have no need for shears, golden or otherwise. You can cut cloth with a mere gaze.

Works great until a pretty girl comes along, and then the cloth is ruined.

 

[greger]

Montauk, do you know the difference between bespoke and m2m? It sounds like you don't.

When you went off to a third party that sounds like a deal breaker to me. Wouldn't that be the beginning of the end? You made a deal with one person (1) then went to another (2) and made a deal without his (1) involvement until later? I would have thrown you out then.

Always somebody new coming along.

 

[mactire]

Skirt on fleek, btw.

Is it just me or does yer man on the right have an enormous head?