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Riccardo Bestetti Bespoke projects.

poorsod

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Looks like bengalstripes kudu chukkas.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/187914/...ation-thread-bespoke-only/180_30#post_3464108
 

fritzl

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bengal-stripe

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but so far
none of my shoes
have 'deformed' for lack
of this side lining
(oldest one about 10 yrs)


Whether side linings are essential, I wouldn’t know, but they are considered good practice in North-European shoemaking. (The Dutch name might be similar to the German name “Überstemme”).

No idea, if Latin shoemakers use them routinely, occasionally or not at all.

The object of using the side lining is to continue the support around the feather line of the shoe between the ends of the heel-stiffener and the toe-box.

The waist, under the joints, and the forepart have to stand the whole strain of the bending and flexing of the foot. These parts of the shoe cannot be made rigid as in the heel portion and the toe, because it would interfere with the flexibility of the shoe in walking, but some additional support around the feather line of the shoe is required to stand the strain and stress placed upon it at these points. Hence the necessity of a light but good side lining.


W Wardley in F Y Golding (editor) “Boots and Shoes” Volume IV (London 1935)

is that your sharkskin chukka rolf?


Nope, no fish. Those boots are shrunken Kudu.

Details003.jpg


bestetti doesn't use it
but he does refer to
'leather reinforcement'
for some more delicate leathers.


That refers to a “backer” where the underside of piece of leather gets laminated (glued-on over its entire area) with another piece which can be either leather or synthetic, to give it more “body” (same principle as glued-on interfacings in tailoring).
 

HLow

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this thread is awesome. I do enjoy seeing Riccardo's creations and from the pictures, his workmanship is insane! His shoes will be high on my wishlist should i ever save up enough to own a pair
drool.gif
 

meister

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Last edited:

Looking to improve

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T4phage

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T4:
In looking at the pics, I noticed the absence of a side lining on Bestetti's shoes. Does he in fact not use a side lining?
Nice shoes, by the way!


Maybe the Italians do not use them either.


i spoke to riccardo today
he says he does use them
and they are important.
and the reason i don't
see them is because
for narrow tipped shoes
he adds them after the
toepuff.
for wider tipped shoes
it is like the photo
rolf showed.

but he also said
it depends on the leather
and the client's foot
 

fritzl

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