Recent non-Sartorialist Looks

[noob in 89]



Unfortunately, he posted some pictures and got hammer-timed for it..

Yikes. I guess I've totally misunderstood the purpose of this thread. I thought it was just for a discussion of recent looks, both good and bad. Now you're telling me we're just supposed to be posting exemplary fits?

 

[IrateCustomer]



Yikes. I guess I've totally misunderstood the purpose of this thread. I thought it was just for a discussion of recent looks, both good and bad. Now you're telling me we're just supposed to be posting exemplary fits?

I was referring to all of the troll statements, and "you have a lot to learn" type comments. I'm not telling you what you're supposed to post, I think new members should be treated better than what I've seen today. I think discussing the looks is fine, it's targeting the poster that I didn't agree with.

 

[sprout]

IrateCustomer - thank you for your help! Yes I am genuinely interested in having a better understanding. And you are right, I don't have much to refer to in order to make a decision on. I even went so far as getting my hands on copies of these: Andy Gilchrist - The Encyclopedia Of Men's Clothes, Details - Men's Style Manual by Daniel Peres, Dressing The Man by Alan Flusser, Off The Cuff (The Essential Style Guide for Men and the Women who Love Them) by Carson Kressley, and AskMen.com Presents: The Style Bible by James Bassil. I've gone over each of these.
Again, thank you for your help and I'll try to post things that are more conservative and in tune with this thread from now on.

I'm going to give you a syllabus. I believe that all aesthetic pursuits, and taste, even, are fundamentally learned behaviors and have hierarchies you can boil them down to. They also take time and open-mindedness. The below is a canonical, sledgehammer approach to your problem, but it's going to serve you better (we hope) than what the likes of GQ and Esquire are trying to peddle to you.

Books: Tutorials

Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion - Bernhard Roetzel
Dressing the Man - Alan Flusser
Eminently Suitable - Bruce Boyer
ABC of Men's Fashion - Hardy Amies
Well-Dressed Gentleman's Pocket Guide - Oscar Lenius
Handmade Shoes for Men - Laszlo Vass

Books: Essay/Academic
The Suit - Nicholas Antongiovanni
An Englishman's Suit - Hardy Amies
Men's Fashion Reader - McNeil and Karaminas
The Empire of Fashion - Dressing Modern Democracy - Gilles Lipovetsky

Books: Hagiography/Historical

History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing - Nicholas Storey
Henry Poole: Founders of Savile Row - Stephen Howarth
Bespoke: Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed - Richard Anderson
Icon's of Men's Style - Josh Sims
Brioni: Fifty Years of Style - Cristina Giorgetti
Rubinacci and the Story of Neapolitan Tailoring - Nick Foulkes

Magazine

Men's EX - Japanese magazine
Leon - Japanese magazine *do not attempt until you gain more experience

Blog

A Suitable Wardrobe (conservative, but this will give you a sense of the historical/geometric rationale behind proportions and things)
The Armoury Lightbox (these chaps have a very good sense of color and texture - you may also like to watch the O'Mast documentary they are selling)
* See also the thread on this forum about recommended blogs/tumblrs

As well, consume all the images you possibly can but keep a cool, detached stance and try to avoid getting sucked into the irrational exuberance that will suspend your good judgment. Read those tumblrs you find and let them lead you to others; the Internet is awash in images. Don't attach to them, though, but use them to train your eyeballs in color and proportion. Then read a forum like this one for a couple of years, lurking patiently, and comparing the images you saw against what is discussed. Why did something seem "wrong" to you? Why did something you thought was cool get critically panned? Compare, contrast, and stab down to some universal principles while sussing out your own interpretations. Above all, spend little money and study, study, study. Get the bare essentials you know you need, but do it on the cheap. Your knowledge will grow in leaps and bounds and you'll soon regret that vermilion waistcoat you bought. Go out into the world and look at how people dress for leisure, business, etc., and what they connote. Go to men's clothing stores and look at everything and paw the merchandise -- don't be intimidated. Treat them like an open-invitation museum where you can see all you want and then leave with no consequences. Lurk, lurk, lurk: read the Tailors' Thread about the fitting of tailored clothing. The subjects discussed herein have their own uncomplicated patois and if you keep reading, you'll soon understand the insiders' lingo and handshakes. Befriend an alterations tailor and ask them questions, letting them guide you.

Finally, keep your eyeballs wide open to art, architecture, textiles, photography, the arrangement of food, mosaics, patterns in nature, etc; if you're going to do this right, do it whole hog. Being a single-minded clothes horse is a lonely, sordid existence. Studying other areas will train your eyes and gut and make your clothing choices intuitive and beautiful.

Also, think twice before going for "slim" clothing!!

 

[CruzAzul]



Which one of you is this?

YOU LEAVE BRYAN FERRY ALONE YOU SON OF A *****

 

[pvrhye]

you have a lot to learn

Is there a place where I can start? I am willing to learn what's proper and what's not. I come across many conflicting things online. For example, I read the information on Peyman Umay's site about what makes a bespoke suit etc, and someone in this thread said the site is filled with garbage and some of it is made up.

Is there a good place to learn the 101 of it all here on SF?

I'm willing to learn. Also, after I googled the definition of "sartorialist", I didn't see one other than it being a website. Can you explain what "sartorialist" is?

In this case, the thread title means discussions about pictures that aren't on Scott Schuman's blog "The Sartorialist".

 

[noob in 89]

Eggscellent...I'm going in.

Screw it. I like this a lot...probably because I tried on the same jacket and thought it just looked kinda meh. But now I can see that Ashton's humbled me once again. Damn you, Kutcher!

(I mean, I'm sure it's all kinds of wrong, but let's face it: the dude looks comfy).

 

[Ich_Dien]



YOU LEAVE BRYAN FERRY ALONE YOU SON OF A *****

+1.

 

[viksra]

Thank you all for your input. pvrhye & Sprout, thanks to both of you too.

 

[apropos]



two names I wish I never learned, Jason Ross Lee and Peyman Umay.

Peyman sez hai.

 

[F. Corbera]



two names I wish I never learned, Jason Ross Lee and Peyman Umay.

New York City's Peyman Umay is America's answer to Savile Row's Paul Jheeta.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



YOU LEAVE BRYAN FERRY ALONE YOU SON OF A *****

Whenever I see a picture of Bryan Ferry I think it is actor Tom Wilkinson:

 

[lasbar]



Whenever I see a picture of Bryan Ferry I think it is actor Tom Wilkinson:

Really???

 

[Saturdays]



(I mean, I'm sure it's all kinds of wrong, but let's face it: the dude looks comfy).

Thats why its all kinds of wrong, and it just looks big on him. You can't look too comfy and dress well (Unless ou take comfort in dressing well)

 

[IrateCustomer]

I think Old Dog Old Tricks is a good example of how that can be debated. Although his style differs from the current cuts, he definitely looks good while looking very comfortable.

 

[sprout]

Thats why its all kinds of wrong, and it just looks big on him. You can't look too comfy and dress well (Unless ou take comfort in dressing well)

This is utter nonsense. I'm sorry you have to suffer for your style. Sounds like a kind of ready-to-wear hell.

I think Old Dog Old Tricks is a good example of how that can be debated. Although his style differs from the current cuts, he definitely looks good while looking very comfortable.

+1, and his sense of color and contrast is great.
Just no sockless loafers, please