Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[FlowableFill]

Fox 11 oz cavalry twill. I'll post a closeup of the fabric when it gets delivered. It's very lightweight and should wear cooler than other cavalry twills. I'm going to have the pants flared a bit so I can wear cowboy boots and not have the boots pull the fabric. Link to the fabric:

English Eccentrics : Chocolate Brown Newmarket Cavalry Twill FD112

A mini-series of rustic and quintessentially English cloths, taking on shades of brown and green inspired by rural British countryside.Offering a seamless blend of country charm and beauty, these latest qualities comprise of earthy browns and fresh greens, combined with the natural benefits of...

foxflannel.com

 

[kid1002]

Completed MTO shacket in Loro Piana 'Proposte Giacche' SS24 N763033. Photos courtesy of the store that made this for me.

Overall I'm glad I received this on the edge of Summer, as I would not recommend it for high summers in most Asian countries. It doesn’t breathe as well as I have expected it to feel, which means I could probably still wear this for a couple more weeks and that's about it before high heat actually hits Shanghai.

 

[WhereNext]

Well, it turns out I’ll be getting something from the Golden Fox book after all. Having a quarter or half lined suit made up in the char navy below. Finding a dark blue color I really liked in a chalk stripe (non-Winter Flannel Division) was more difficult than I anticipated. This will be the lightest weight suit I own, so we’ll see if I like how this works in the heat or if I need to go back to “heavier but more breathable”.

 

[kolecho]

Completed MTO shacket in Loro Piana 'Proposte Giacche' SS24 N763033. Photos courtesy of the store that made this for me.

Overall I'm glad I received this on the edge of Summer, as I would not recommend it for high summers in most Asian countries. It doesn’t breathe as well as I have expected it to feel, which means I could probably still wear this for a couple more weeks and that's about it before high heat actually hits Shanghai.

View attachment 2184631 View attachment 2184633 View attachment 2184635 View attachment 2184645

That's to be expected of twills which are generally more tightly woven. Cerrutti used to have a wool/linen twill which was a lot more porous called summer tweed from their Oxygen range.

 

[kid1002]

That's to be expected of twills which are generally more tightly woven. Cerrutti used to have a wool/linen twill which was a lot more porous called summer tweed from their Oxygen range.

Lesson learned. But yeah I should've gone for something from the Oxygen bunch come to think of it... I got tempted for owning something from Loro Piana's seasonal collection.

 

[clee1982]

Well, it turns out I’ll be getting something from the Golden Fox book after all. Having a quarter or half lined suit made up in the char navy below. Finding a dark blue color I really liked in a chalk stripe (non-Winter Flannel Division) was more difficult than I anticipated. This will be the lightest weight suit I own, so we’ll see if I like how this works in the heat or if I need to go back to “heavier but more breathable”.
View attachment 2184649

very interesting to see how this turns out, always tried to look for a chalk stripe but not flannel (kind an odd requirement I suppose)...

 

[WhereNext]

very interesting to see how this turns out, always tried to look for a chalk stripe but not flannel (kind an odd requirement I suppose)...

Yeah, lots of pinstripes in different weights and finishes, but chalk stripes were a bit rarer. I’d also note that these stripes are a bit more widely spaced than “normal”, so we’ll see how that renders at scale. I did almost go with a navy blue chalk stripe from Standeven’s Escorial which was very nice and is at 9 ounces, so you might want to look at that. I went with the Fox as the stripe is a bit more muted, whereas the Escorial was a bit more stark. Having said that, I may do the Escorial for a grey chalk stripe next year.

 

[tim_horton]

Lovat Mill’s Bard (their open weave fabric) has a similar navy with muted chalk stripe, which I had made up. So did the old Fox Air.

Most lightweight fabrics with stripes seem to have the stripe very bright and bold, for some reason.

 

[WhereNext]

Lovat Mill’s Bard (their open weave fabric) has a similar navy with muted chalk stripe, which I had made up. So did the old Fox Air.

Most lightweight fabrics with stripes seem to have the stripe very bright and bold, for some reason.

I hadn’t seen the Bard, so that’s something I’ll have to see if any of the tailors I’m using have access to. You’re right on Fox Air: similar char blue color and muted stripe (and slightly more traditionally spaced stripes), but I wanted to try something in this lighter weight. I liked a lot of the Fox Air stuff though (and it looks like they’re relaunching that with some nice new colors/patterns, too), so could see myself trying that if I’m not sold on the Golden Fox.

 

[kid1002]

I need some help from experienced remote-bespoke customers or tailors here...

I had commissioned remotely for this cotton suit earlier this year from The Prologue (Hong Kong). Measurements were provided by me remotely to The Prologue using measurements taken by my usual tailors in Shanghai who had made tens of garments for me.

A basted fitting was done in Shanghai during April when Jerry from The Prologue came here for a mini trunk show. Nothing seemed wrong to me back then, so I basically said "you do your thing" as Jerry did his thing.

Now today I have just received the completed suit. Both jacket and trousers. Trousers fit me wonderfully, but I am finding glaring problems with the jacket.



Main issues I'm feeling
- Collar gap behind the neck
- Lapel gap at the chest
- Movement feels restrictive but the jacket is very roomy, could it be because of the two problems above?
- General balance issues, including right piece/skirt gaping away from my body

I know they cut me a wide-shouldered silouette, so exactly what are the problems and what's just style I can't tell for sure.

The Prologue agreed to take this in for alterations after I shared some basic recordings of me wearing the jacket (including the YouTube clip I'm sharing here) with Jerry.

As I usually just rely on tailors to identify and fix problems in real life, I can't help but feel powerless in remote, finding myself not being able to convey problems I'm seeing/feeling.

Any thoughts?

 

[JHWilliams]

I need some help from experienced remote-bespoke customers or tailors here...

I had commissioned remotely for this cotton suit earlier this year from The Prologue (Hong Kong). Measurements were provided by me remotely to The Prologue using measurements taken by my usual tailors in Shanghai who had made tens of garments for me.

A basted fitting was done in Shanghai during April when Jerry from The Prologue came here for a mini trunk show. Nothing seemed wrong to me back then, so I basically said "you do your thing" as Jerry did his thing.

Now today I have just received the completed suit. Both jacket and trousers. Trousers fit me wonderfully, but I am finding glaring problems with the jacket.



Main issues I'm feeling
- Collar gap behind the neck
- Lapel gap at the chest
- Movement feels restrictive but the jacket is very roomy, could it be because of the two problems above?
- General balance issues, including right piece/skirt gaping away from my body

I know they cut me a wide-shouldered silouette, so exactly what are the problems and what's just style I can't tell for sure.

The Prologue agreed to take this in for alterations after I shared some basic recordings of me wearing the jacket (including the YouTube clip I'm sharing here) with Jerry.

As I usually just rely on tailors to identify and fix problems in real life, I can't help but feel powerless in remote, finding myself not being able to convey problems I'm seeing/feeling.

Any thoughts?

This is why “remote bespoke” doesn’t work. I tried it once during the pandemic. Never again.

 

[tim_horton]

If the armholes are too low, you may feel restricted in motion despite having enough room at rest.

 

[oldworldelegance]

Completed suit in P&H 18oz Thornproof. It’s a dark Donegal brown, which should work nicely in the city. The fabric was out of stock for ages (with delays in reweaving) so this project has been long in the making. It’s 23C and sunny here, so perfect weather for it?! Something to look forward after summer. Apologies for the low lighting.

 

[jonathanS]

I need some help from experienced remote-bespoke customers or tailors here...

I had commissioned remotely for this cotton suit earlier this year from The Prologue (Hong Kong). Measurements were provided by me remotely to The Prologue using measurements taken by my usual tailors in Shanghai who had made tens of garments for me.

A basted fitting was done in Shanghai during April when Jerry from The Prologue came here for a mini trunk show. Nothing seemed wrong to me back then, so I basically said "you do your thing" as Jerry did his thing.

Now today I have just received the completed suit. Both jacket and trousers. Trousers fit me wonderfully, but I am finding glaring problems with the jacket.



Main issues I'm feeling
- Collar gap behind the neck
- Lapel gap at the chest
- Movement feels restrictive but the jacket is very roomy, could it be because of the two problems above?
- General balance issues, including right piece/skirt gaping away from my body

I know they cut me a wide-shouldered silouette, so exactly what are the problems and what's just style I can't tell for sure.

The Prologue agreed to take this in for alterations after I shared some basic recordings of me wearing the jacket (including the YouTube clip I'm sharing here) with Jerry.

As I usually just rely on tailors to identify and fix problems in real life, I can't help but feel powerless in remote, finding myself not being able to convey problems I'm seeing/feeling.

Any thoughts?

Agreed with you on every point. Also, I thought prologue was mtm, not bespoke. Maybe they even do a mtm fitting. But you can tell it’s not handmade by the lapel roll.

 

[CLH03]

Completed suit in P&H 18oz Thornproof. It’s a dark Donegal brown, which should work nicely in the city. The fabric was out of stock for ages (with delays in reweaving) so this project has been long in the making. It’s 23C and sunny here, so perfect weather for it?! Something to look forward after summer. Apologies for the low lighting.


View attachment 2184827
View attachment 2184829
View attachment 2184831

Cool suit!