New to nice suits: athletic build fit and fabric advice please!

[dawgcatching]

Hi all,

I am in the market for a nice suit. The last nice suit I purchased was 12 years ago, basic Armani $1700 priced suit, it was 36R if i remember correctly. Great fit at the time, looks dated now. I am in the market for a nice, wearable, durable suit, up to $2500. Mostly for dressier parties, industry events, and date nights; my workday can be dirty and I don't wear a suit.

Questions: what are the differences at given price points? I hear the term half canvassed vs. fully canvassed. What else? My current suit (that fits well) is a 36R from Nordstrom, Ted Baker. It was something like $800; well cut, but not made that well and not wearing well. I have already had the lapel re-stitched.

My measurements: I am 5 foot 9, 32 inch inseam. Around 162 lbs, athletic build, 30-31 inch waist, barrel chested, big quads. My shirts are all "Eton slim fit", 14.5" neck. They all fit like a glove.

I was told Armani had the right "drop" for my body type? What else should I be considering? I live out in the sticks, but have a trip planned to Dallas soon and want a great suit that fits!

What brands as far as quality goes? Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Armani, Canali? Anything else in the price point? And, what size? 36 or 38?

 

[AlexE]

I guess nobody can seriously help you with sizing especially since a 36R of one maker might be completely different from other makers.

A price point is mainly defined by supply and demand, i.e. what are people willing to pay for a product. The reason they are willing to pay for it may be very diverse: Brand image, design, fit, construction quality, fabrics, detailing ... on this forum people will be more inclined on spending for traditional tailoring, i.e. good fabrics + more or less traditional tailoring techniques (like full canvassing) + conservative / timeless styling. My perception of Armani is that a large percentage of what you pays goes into branding and I am not a fan, but that is my very subjective view.

In Dallas you will have access to Brooks Brothers, which have a decent quality mainline (1818) and a higher quality line called Golden Fleece. The latter will be in the price range your are shooting for. Canali should be available in high end department stores and there is a Zegna store (only their Ermenegildo Zegna is of high quality, ZZegna not so much). Out of these three, the best assistance regarding finding the right size you probably will get at Brooks Brothers.

 

[breakaway01]

Definitely go with full canvas at your budget. Fit will be much more important than any other construction details so you'll want to try on a number of different suits from different manufacturers. Be aware that a single manufacturer (like Brooks Brothers or Ermenegildo Zegna, for example) will usually have a number of different fits. Some will be slimmer and some fuller, for example, or more/less structured in the chest/shoulders. Wear a dress shirt and dress shoes if possible.

It's hard to recommend a size as @AlexE mentioned, though I am guessing that 36R in most manufacturers may be a bit tight in the chest and thighs for you. I am usually a 36R and I'm 5'10" and 145 lb.

I don't know Dallas but the high-end department stores there would include Neiman Marcus and Stanley Korshak. Ralph Lauren, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Brooks Brothers are also good options. SuitSupply is not in the same league, but their La Spalla model is reasonably good quality for the price ($1K) and fully canvassed.

 

[jonathanS]

Anything with a drop 8 is a good place to start.