New suits - jackets too short?

[richyrich]

Here are my comparisons between the 38r and 38s. Jacket is on top, trousers on the bottom. Would a 38r suit me better? If so I could probably stretch it and buy a 38r aswell and compare. Thing is though that the sleeves will be an inch too long and with the adjustable buttons, I dont know if I would trust a tailor locally to shorten the jackets at the shoulder which is the way you reduce sleeve length with useable buttons as far as I can tell.

EDIT: I went ahead and ordered a 38r too in the navy. From looking around though it seems that the most you can reduce on the cuff of SS jacket is 3/8", otherwise you need to shorten at the shoulders which is likely prohibitively expensive and a bit hard to find a good tailor locally. Anyway, its ordered now, at least it will give me another jacket to compare fits too and I can send it back if needs be.

 

[comrade]

Perhaps you should stay away from Suit Supply. I personally am not a fan of theirs.
Even when I was much younger I avoided the equivalent trendy style(s) that
SS represents, preferring more classical ( and expensive) clothing .It is also
possible that more conservative styles would fit better.

 

[jrd617]

Here's my 2 cents from years of experience

I think you may need a 40R and the matching 34 pants (as opposed to 38S jacket and 32 pants). The 38S jacket looks very tight in some areas. And also too short for a classic menswear look. Additionally, the pants pockets are flaring out because there is not enough leg room.

See this thread on the gaping pockets explanation: http://www.styleforum.net/t/315238/gaping-pockets/0_50

 

[jrd617]

You should measure your Suit Supply jackets with this method and report back with the findings so people can give you more quantitative feedback. Right now it's hard to estimate

https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/clothing/style-tips/how-to-measure-a-jacket/

Can measure pants like this even though they're jeans https://blueingreensoho.com/pages/measurement-guide

 

[IChen]

I get that you want a "modern" fashionable look where the jacket is a little short, but it's also that the jacket just looks too tight like across the back and chest. It's pretty possible that 38R still won't fit.

 

[Michael81]

EDIT: I went ahead and ordered a 38r too in the navy. From looking around though it seems that the most you can reduce on the cuff of SS jacket is 3/8", otherwise you need to shorten at the shoulders which is likely prohibitively expensive and a bit hard to find a good tailor locally. Anyway, its ordered now, at least it will give me another jacket to compare fits too and I can send it back if needs be.

I have to shorten all my jackets from the shoulder.

It seems to me that your expectation of how a RTW suit should fit OTR is perhaps a little unrealistic. If you want clothes to fit well, it's far better to buy for the key details (shoulders and jacket length) and alter the rest. Likewise, if the trousers of a 40R are too big, that, too, can easily be fixed.

While alterations do get expensive, believe me, they're worth it. You'll wear something which fits well a lot more than something which doesn't. Basically, what I (and everyone else) is saying is this: you need to find yourself a good tailor, stat.

 

[jrd617]

You could also just find a brand that has unfinished sleeves. Canali, Zegna, Corneliani are all usually unfinished. Much better build quality too

 

[Michael81]

Sure, but those are three times the price of a basic SuSu model. Personally, I'd never pay that much for a RTW suit.

 

[jrd617]

^ Dig around on the B&S and Fleabay and there are some winners there. For less than or equal to Susu. I have never paid retail for nice NWT suits from those makes

 

[Michael81]

I assume you're based in the US. I've actually spent a lot of time trawling the depths of eBay and B&S without much success. The European options are typically not great and stuff coming from outside the EU is not nearly as attractive when you factor in high postage costs, 24% VAT, 4% tariffs and the inevitable customs delays. Hence SuitSupply.

 

[jrd617]



I assume you're based in the US. I've actually spent a lot of time trawling the depths of eBay and B&S without much success. The European options are typically not great and stuff coming from outside the EU is not nearly as attractive when you factor in high postage costs, 24% VAT, 4% tariffs and the inevitable customs delays. Hence SuitSupply. 

eBay global shipping program, no? They've had that for years. US sellers get a label from the site that goes to some eBay warehouse in Kentucky and then eBay ships it over seas risk-free. You haven't taken advantage of that?

I guess Scandinavian governments are Nazis when it comes to tariffs. No offense to Scandinavia.

Hope the current US regime does not resort to crazy border taxes on foreign goods.

 

[Michael81]

The global shipping program is actually pretty ******. Expensive, slow and in my experience quite unreliable. Not to mention the added potential hassle and expense of returns and the slowness of the refund process. While SuSu is not perfect, it is at least affordable, convenient and efficient. And they offer long sizes.

Finland isn't a part of Scandinavia, so none taken. But I take the general point. That is just the reality of living in the EU - you pay VAT on everything.

Doubtful, your supply chains are too diffuse, companies like profits and everyone likes cheap ****.

 

[jrd617]

Do any of the higher end Susu models have unfinished sleeves? What about that Jort model?

 

[richyrich]

Hi all,

Thanks for the replies and sorry about the delay replying. Starting a new job in a few days so its quite hectic ATM.

Hi all,

Thanks for the replies and sorry about the delay replying. Starting a new job in a few days so its quite hectic ATM.

Here's my 2 cents from years of experience

I think you may need a 40R and the matching 34 pants (as opposed to 38S jacket and 32 pants). The 38S jacket looks very tight in some areas. And also too short for a classic menswear look. Additionally, the pants pockets are flaring out because there is not enough leg room.

See this thread on the gaping pockets explanation: http://www.styleforum.net/t/315238/gaping-pockets/0_50

Thanks for the effort of the post JRD. Couple of issues with the things that you pointed out (My fault, not yours). The far left picture of the dark grey hasnt had the vents cut which is why I believe it is bunching up where you circled. My light grey one is the exact same size/make/fit etc but doesnt have the bunching in that part of the back, or at least it didnt till I got the back let out which I will mention in a second.

The second picture I think grossly exaggerate the tightness of the jacket. I will upload better quality ones now.

For the third picture you are right. I thought it was supposed to end at the knucker of the thumb when you have your hand in a relaxed position hanging down ie thumb is sticking out at an angle rather than perpendicular to your fingers.

I assume you're based in the US. I've actually spent a lot of time trawling the depths of eBay and B&S without much success. The European options are typically not great and stuff coming from outside the EU is not nearly as attractive when you factor in high postage costs, 24% VAT, 4% tariffs and the inevitable customs delays. Hence SuitSupply.

As Michael said, I am looking for a decent quality suit for a certain price and most importantly, fast. Start work in five days. Thanks for the

I have to shorten all my jackets from the shoulder.

It seems to me that your expectation of how a RTW suit should fit OTR is perhaps a little unrealistic. If you want clothes to fit well, it's far better to buy for the key details (shoulders and jacket length) and alter the rest. Likewise, if the trousers of a 40R are too big, that, too, can easily be fixed.

While alterations do get expensive, believe me, they're worth it. You'll wear something which fits well a lot more than something which doesn't. Basically, what I (and everyone else) is saying is this: you need to find yourself a good tailor, stat.

Can I ask how much you pay for this? And are you based in Dublin/Ireland? I have a fellow in Dublin who said he can do it for 130 but he will need to see it on me first. I suspect that if the jacket is too tight then he wont be able to do it as it reduces the armhole size? May be an option if I had a 40R but not with the 39R I am being delivered. I still think 38 is my size as there are the very beginnings of divots with the 38S Lazio I have. The Napoli is a bit wider around chest and waist though so hopefully will be okay.

Do any of the higher end Susu models have unfinished sleeves? What about that Jort model?

Not sure but I dont have time to check them out anyway. Gonna make sure I visit a SS store over the summer to try them on in-store and get my third one from there done properly.


I have some questions on the length issues. My jacket seems long enough if you measure the length of jacket and that should equal the distance between bottom of jacket and floor test. Both are 29" (to the top of the jacket collar - maybe should be the bottom of the collar?). Also, it covers my butt well.

It does fail the knuckles test (if it is the finger knuckles and not the thumb knuckle as JRD illustrated). I also read that for smaller people (5"8-9), the suit jacket should end half way down the crotch https://ashleyweston.com/mens-clothing-fit-guide/how-should-a-suit-fit/ Is that incorrect? They have a image to represent where the jacket should end in that link. I understand from here that lower crotch is correct, but for a shorter person can I get away with it.

I am also wondering if I was wearing my pants too low. I read about natural waist as opposed to where you wear your jeans. I took 2 sets of pictures and I am pointing at where my belly button is. Should I be wearing my pants where the waist is on the second set of images. 1st image of open jacket goes with the last of the 4 photos below. The middle two are the same waist hieght with open and closed jacket.










Will I get away with the suit above. Its brand new and altered so cant go back. I dont think it looks so bad that I shouldnt wear it to work? Bascially, would the vast majority of people not thing "his jacket is too short".

I also got "the back" let out on the jacket by an inch I believe. I went to a launderatte/alterations place. I am not sure if it is worse. Little baggy etc. Let me know what you think. There also seems to be way more pooling at the top of the butt compared to pre-alteration.

Did he do a good job? Should I have left the waist out instead of the back? Or is it the same thing




Last picture is my arms in front of me ie holding my own hands, palm on back of the hand

The next set of pics are to do with sleeve length issues (not with this suit but with my soon to come 38R Napoli).



Lastly (phew, thanks for sticking with me), I have ordered a 38R. It will give me the extra length I need and a little bit more in the waist and a good bit more in the chest. However, the sleeves are 1" longer than my current lazio which is perfect at the sleeves (when comparing SS's measurements). I have contacted alterations and can only find one place that can do it (he will need to see it on me first, does alot of the expensive shops alterations apparently).

He said it will cost 130 which is half the cost of the suit. I also have the option of getting it reduced at the cuff for about 30 euros.

Now obviously there are functional buttons so they cant be moved up. I contacted suitsupply who say up to .75 of an inch can be taken from the cuff. So do I do this and show .25" of the shirt cuff/none or do I fork out the 130 to get it reduced at the sleeves.

Ideally, I would do the cuffs but im not sure if it will make the suit look quite strange. SS said they do it so I reckon it must be fairly okay. Also, from what I can tell SS has a little more distance between buttons and end of cuff than other makers and IMO looks okay in my botched attempt to recreate it. Pics below, before and after (kinda).









Would 99% of people notice the buttons are too close to the cuff? I dont mind if I have to lose a button. I have attached photos of distance between cuff and button as well as my own basic impression of what it would look like with reduced cuffs.

I am not looking to be the ultimate bespoked tailored dude. I just want to look well presented to the majority of people (basically everyone except fashion experts like yourselves). Will both my light grey suit and the new navy suit with reduced sleeves at the cuff fit the bill?

I know its hard to say exactly when you will automatically notice flaws but is it only SF members who would notice?

How taboo would it be to wear the same suit for 2/3/4 days in a row with diff but similar shirts (same collar, two colours - blue and white - different fabrice ie twill, egyptian, imperial weave etc) and completly different ties. The tailor said he would try have it done for Tuesday (if reducing suit at the sleeves) so I would need to wear the same suit for 2 days in a row, three or maybe four days if he doesnt have it ready for Tuesday.

I also have the (admittedly) horrible Navy suit I showed earlier. I could maybe wear that for a day and just whip off my jacket ASAP when I get into work (think most people do this anyway).

Cheers again for reading and all the replies. I will post up pics of the Napoli's as soon as I get them (tomorrow hopefully).

 

[jrd617]

The jacket doesn't fit you well.

Not sure what these pictures (taken from awkward angles) are supposed to prove. I see a jacket that's too tight in the chest and waist, and too short in length.