Need advice regarding suits and shoes

[pinstripe000]

Hi all,

I would like some advice regarding the following:
Currently I have two suits I ordered from hockerty, they're not amazing but they do the job for me currently. I had to get an alteration done by a tailor to get the button sown for my braces because Hockerty's factory didn't do it for some reason and I will never use them again.
As a large sized person, I've always avoided buying clothes off the rack but with my intention of going down quite a few sizes, I would like to find a way to get suits as I decrease in size without killing my pocket.
1) Could I get stuff off the rack and then get a tailor to alter it to my body shape? What would be the best option with getting new suits?
2) What is a good shoe brand, I've heard bad things about Church's shoes but I am looking to invest in a good collection of shoes.
For Context, I am based in London,UK and budget wise would like to spend £300-600 per suit until I can get to a weight i'm good with and then start spending some money on bespoke suits. For shoes, budget wise, I'm happy to spend what is required to get quality.
Thank you for reading!

 

[Bankers_Stripes]

Yes, you could easily buy off the rack. I own dozens of suits and all are OTR, never done bespoke. A good tailor can make alterations to an off the rack suit but I would make sure you know your general size so the required alterations are minimal. Most essential in my opinion is to not buy anything too short as it’s always easier to shorten a jacket and the sleeves a little if need be, as long as it doesn’t have surgeons cuffs. The shoulders must fit - so shoulder fit is key.

Regarding shoes avoid Church’s. They used to be good years ago but now Prada bought them and they have fallen quite a bit in quality. What is your budget for shoes?

 

[pinstripe000]

Yes, you could easily buy off the rack. I own dozens of suits and all are OTR, never done bespoke. A good tailor can make alterations to an off the rack suit but I would make sure you know your general size so the required alterations are minimal. Most essential in my opinion is to not buy anything too short as it’s always easier to shorten a jacket and the sleeves a little if need be, as long as it doesn’t have surgeons cuffs. The shoulders must fit - so shoulder fit is key.

Regarding shoes avoid Church’s. They used to be good years ago but now Prada bought them and they have fallen quite a bit in quality. What is your budget for shoes?

Happy to spend 500-1000 per pair, I like loafers mostly.
Can you recommend any good brands for OTR that do big sizes? My chest around is 137cm/54" and waist is 136cm/53.5" as an indicator , dont know what is the range for OTR sizes. I wear my pants waist high just below the naval.

 

[Bankers_Stripes]

Happy to spend 500-1000 per pair, I like loafers mostly.
Can you recommend any good brands for OTR that do big sizes? My chest around is 137cm/54" and waist is 136cm/53.5" as an indicator , dont know what is the range for OTR sizes. I wear my pants waist high just below the naval.

Unfortunately when it comes to suits, I’m not entirely sure I have a good recommendation. I’m a huge thrifter and sale shopper and I wear anything from a 36R to 41R depending on the maker and how my weight has fluctuated. Now, I have heard good things about Canali from guys who generally fit your size. My favorite suits are generally Tom Ford (the only suits I buy new, I have to usually hide from my wife for a week after I buy one once she finds out the price tag!) or Brioni, Zegna, and Kiton (but I always buy those second hand in pristine condition or steeply discounted).

Almost nobody I know in real life at all cares or knows about good suits, even in the corporate world where I work everyone seems to hate suits and just begrudgingly go to Banana Republic or Men’s Wearhouse once every ten years to replace whatever polyester monstrosities they got tired of in their closet. So unfortunately I don’t have many good recommendations for suits for your size, just what I personally like to wear and all I can say is try on a ton of brands and sizes to find what you like best and always avoid anything polyester always go with a 100% wool or wool blend with natural material like silk/cashmere etc.

Now regarding shoes, I may be able to help you. If that’s how much you are willing to spend on loafers, you have quite a few good brands at your disposal brand new, including Carmina and Scarpe Di Bianco (2 brands I quite like). Crockett and Jones are also very nice and are exactly in your price range. You can never go wrong with C&J. One thing I will say - I always size a half size down with loafers. Normally with oxfords and derbies I wear an 11 or 10.5 (US size) but with loafers I always go 10.5.

If you are willing to spend a little over $1000, then you can really pick up some of the big boys when it comes to shoes, like Ferragamo Tramezza and Santoni Fatto a Mano (make sure it’s those lines as those makers have lower end line shoes too). Not quite as insane as something like a Berluti, Corthay, or John Lobb but still very very nice and guaranteed to be better quality and longer lasting than the dress shoes 99% of men wear.

Hope this helps.

 

[KOz]

There are several options when it comes to shoes in the UK:

• Loake for entry level. Specifically the 1880 line(s).
• Trickers, Cheaney, and Crockett & Jones for great quality. I find C&J to be a tad more contemporary.
• Edward Green and John Lobb for an even higher level.