"Necessary" Sport Coats:

[Diavolo]

Originally Posted by dopey

Notorious, is a good example of CG with a less subdued look. As an aside, there is a spectacular DB suit on the Argentine CIA office boy in that movie. Also, some excellent dinnerwear on the Nazis.

The Nazis always looked snazzy. Hugo Boss has fallen a long way.

 

[greekonomist]

Originally Posted by dopey

A "Friday suit" is the same idea. I wear these suits to the office when I don't feel the need to be more formal and on the weekends when I might otherwise wear a sportcoat.

Saxony, as I mean it, is like a soft worsted or a worsted flannel that is less flannely than usual. As I understand the definition, Saxony is actually a breed of sheep that produces Saxony wool. Some of the suits I refer to I know to be Saxony, others I refer to as saxony because the cloth seems similar and probably is.

Originally Posted by yachtie

Traditionally, it's a coarser cloth.

Originally Posted by dopey

Coarser than what? Tweed?

Originally Posted by yachtie

Not quite, but going in that direction. It's a larger yarn than what you'd commonly see in a flannel.

Originally Posted by Manton

I have pages here from an old weaving text published in Huddersfield and it defines Cheviot as rough wool from rough sheep (ones involved in gangs, etc.) and Saxony as soft wool from more refined sheep.

Originally Posted by yachtie

IIRC Saxony is not particurly fine but not as coarse as the cheviot that would appear in a tweed. I'm fine with being corrected.

Originally Posted by Manton

According to people in the trade, "Saxony" v. "Cheviot" used to be the fundamental divide between grades of raw wool. The former was used in worsteds and nice flannels, the latter for tweeds, heavy coats, and everything else. Only later did each come to specify a particular cloth.

Originally Posted by yachtie

Cool- I was referring to cloth. But that's fine.

Originally Posted by Manton

I don't see much specifically marketed as "Saxony" any more, but when I do it is always a nice, loose, spongy flannel. Almost cashmere-like, but a bit too coarse.

Wow. Thanks for all the help. I always figured the term indicated some coarseness. Is most cloth today woven with merino?

 

[Manton]

Merino is a breed of sheep. It is a safe bet than most of the clothes we are talking about on SF was made from wool from merino sheep. Very hairy tweeds, no. Cheap stuff from discount stores, probably not.

 

[greekonomist]

Originally Posted by Manton

Merino is a breed of sheep. It is a safe bet than most of the clothes we are talking about on SF was made from wool from merino sheep. Very hairy tweeds, no. Cheap stuff from discount stores, probably not.

Well I knew it was a breed of sheep (from Australia, right?), whose wool was widely used. I guess a better way of phrasing my question is: Do merino sheep produce saxony and cheviot?

 

[Manton]

Merino are originally from Spain, but these days pretty much all the wool you wear is from Australia.

Merino definitely does not produce Cheviot. As for Saxony, it can produce similar fiber, but a "true" Saxony is (or was) from a different sheep. I think that distinction is pretty much dead, however.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Diavolo

Yeah, but admit it, you couldn't actually see those ladies panties could you? His early stuff was often bold but he became subdued in the late 40s and 50s and remained that way for the rest of his life.

I will admit it.

Originally Posted by dopey

Notorious, is a good example of CG with a less subdued look. As an aside, there is a spectacular DB suit on the Argentine CIA office boy in that movie. Also, some excellent dinnerwear on the Nazis.

Originally Posted by Diavolo

The Nazis always looked snazzy. Hugo Boss has fallen a long way.

- B

 

[greekonomist]

Originally Posted by Manton

Merino are originally from Spain, but these days pretty much all the wool you wear is from Australia.

Merino definitely does not produce Cheviot. As for Saxony, it can produce similar fiber, but a "true" Saxony is (or was) from a different sheep. I think that distinction is pretty much dead, however.

That makes sense. Thank you.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I will admit it.

. . .
darn. I was going to ask if you could find that DB suit on the CIA kid, but when I quoted your post I see that the image came from wikipedia not a screen print of your DVD copy. Too bad. CG also has an unusual sportcoat that he wears a in several scenes in Argentina. I think it is ventless, but it also has a flapped breast pocket. Maybe houndstooth.

 

[Diavolo]

Vox, you got some sort of instant library of a million pics you can spring on us within seconds of a post?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Diavolo

Vox, you got some sort of instant library of a million pics you can spring on us within seconds of a post?

Yes, I do.


- B

 

[Bounder]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Plus, I don't know if this is true, but I am proposing that it is: when you look at images of clothing from the golden ages of black and white photography and movies, the absence of color is going to bias you quite a bit to assume a degree of restraint that might not have been there in the flesh.

- B

Not necessarily.

 

[NorCal_1]

Originally Posted by radicaldog

Consider corduroy.

I need to find a good olive one, but have these so far:

l-r: bespoke (dark brown), Loro Piana (British tan), Canali (tan)

 

[TheFoo]

^^^ You only wear corduroy?

 

[NorCal_1]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

^^^ You only wear corduroy?


no,,,, not at all, I only own those 3 in the picture

I'm the one who posted all the wool sportcoats on the first page of this thread

I just like having a few corduroy's around because they go so well with jeans and fit in San Francisco's much more casual environment.

In NYC, corduroy jackets would probably not work very well at all

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

Originally Posted by NorCal_1

In NYC, corduroy jackets would probably not work very well at all

Yes, yes they would.